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Where to Install Zinc Annodes?

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  • Where to Install Zinc Annodes?

    I recently bought a set of Zinc sacrificial annodes for my 1994 Prostar 190. The set included:

    1 Shaft Annode
    7 round & flat annodes, that are to be sandwiched over metal.

    My question is where and how to install them. I assume the will get installed on.

    1,2: Swim Platform Supports
    3: Rudder
    4: 5, 6, Tracking Fins
    7: ???, Strut?

    A. How high on the shaft would you strap on the shaft annode?

    B. I assume I have to drill the other equipment to hold the other annodes? Any suggestions on where? Just bore a hole through the tracking fins? Sounds kind of scary.

    Thanks,
    AT

  • #2
    Originally posted by andrewtimko
    I recently bought a set of Zinc sacrificial annodes for my 1994 Prostar 190. The set included:

    1 Shaft Annode
    7 round & flat annodes, that are to be sandwiched over metal.

    My question is where and how to install them. I assume the will get installed on.

    1,2: Swim Platform Supports
    3: Rudder
    4: 5, 6, Tracking Fins
    7: ???, Strut?

    A. How high on the shaft would you strap on the shaft annode?

    B. I assume I have to drill the other equipment to hold the other annodes? Any suggestions on where? Just bore a hole through the tracking fins? Sounds kind of scary.

    Thanks,
    AT

    Do you use the boat in saltwater only? Saltwater is more problematic than fresh water when it comes to using zinc anodes as a sacrificial metal. If fresh water only, zinc anodes are not normally required because the scarificed metal on the prop and rudder is not that noticeable as compared to saltwater.
    Charter Member Number 1

    Quote: 2RLAKE,
    At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




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    • #3
      Unfortunatly, the closest water to me is salt. I just want to be proactive before subjecting the boat to that water.

      Comment


      • #4
        If you don't keep the boat in the water, I'm not sure you'll need them. Sterndrives need them because aluminum is a reactive metal and is depleted faster but bronze is more "noble".

        This is a quote from http://gulffishing.com/tips_anode.html

        "The hull material of a boat determines, in part, which anode material to use. A fiberglass boat having an inboard engine with bronze and stainless metal parts needs less protection than an aluminum hull or a boat with an aluminum sterndrive.

        Aluminum alloy is the only anode material that is safe for use in all types of water and accepted by the major sterndrive manufacturers as the best material to use. It is lighter and protects better than zinc and is not so active that it becomes dangerous like magnesium. Aluminum alloy is also environmentally friendly, unlike zinc, which is considered a pollutant."

        If you drill holes in your tracking fins and install anodes, they'll stop being tracking fins.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by andrewtimko
          Unfortunatly, the closest water to me is salt. I just want to be proactive before subjecting the boat to that water.

          I'll send you a PM.
          Charter Member Number 1

          Quote: 2RLAKE,
          At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




          Comment


          • #6
            If you mount one on the shaft won't that cause vibration issues
            [Originally Posted by kjohnson
            Did you take the boater's test prior to purchasing. Flush a $100 bill down the toilet. If it bothers you, you aren't ready to own a boat.

            Jeff
            Blue Skies and Soft Landings
            2005 X-Star LQ9 with closed cooling
            1998 PS205 Sammy W/Monster Tower SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by River Rat
              If you mount one on the shaft won't that cause vibration issues
              They are egg shaped and the 2 halves are bolted together in front of the strut and any imbalance of the anode that close to the shaft would never be noticed.
              Charter Member Number 1

              Quote: 2RLAKE,
              At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TMCNo1
                They are egg shaped and the 2 halves are bolted together in front of the strut and any imbalance of the anode that close to the shaft would never be noticed.
                Check this out,http://www.boatzincs.com/shaft.html
                Last edited by TMCNo1; 05-17-2007, 09:00 PM.
                Charter Member Number 1

                Quote: 2RLAKE,
                At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




                Comment


                • #9
                  I recently bought a 93 prostar that has been used in saltwater most of the time. there are no anodes on it and there is little or no corrosion on any of the metal running gear. the boat is now always trailered and it was always stored on a lift before I got it. if you are not going to leave it in the water, you can probably get away without any anodes or just put one on the rudder.
                  1993 Blue Stars and Stripes Prostar Powerslot 351HO
                  Mastercraft: Face It - If you are not a good skier behind this boat, you are not a good skier.

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                  • #10
                    Interesting reading! I love this technical stuff. reminds me of high school chemistry. JimN, you mentioned that Magnesium can become dangerous as an anode. I am curious why? Could you expand on that one please?
                    Skidog, dont forget to take your Geritol.

                    On a different note: I like LOTS of snort comin' out of the hole.

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                    • #11
                      I have one on my drive shaft only. I wouln't do the rudder or the tracking fins to preserve performance.

                      I'd do some more homework before puting them on the aluminum brackets on the swim platform. IIRC they react differently when anodes are applied - I'm not sure using them helps in the same way as steal where the electrical current produced is expelled to and through the discharging anode as electrons are kicked off whole zinc molecules go right along since they need a ballanced outer valence shell. Aluminum on the other hand, as it oxidizes/corrodes builds up a protective layer on itself. The word Al silicate comes to mind...go try wikipedia ICBW. Just make sure the zinc and Al together don't accelerate the process.

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                      • #12
                        UMP- Magnesium is highly reactive and when it comes into contact with salt water, it really goes nuts. The bubbles that come from the reaction are hydrogen and are highly explosive. Same reason lead/acid batteries have a warning on them about sparks and open flame- the bubbles that form during the charging cycle are hydrogen, too.

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                        • #13
                          any idea how to wire one of those?

                          X2SS


                          I'm looking to install one on my X1.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Splash View Post
                            any idea how to wire one of those?

                            X2SS


                            I'm looking to install one on my X1.
                            Why do you want to install one? Are you using the boat in salt water? It's not a stern-drive, made of aluminum, which is more reactive than stainless or bronze.

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                            • #15
                              Yes I'm using the boat in SaltWater, in the Mediterranean Sea. My mechanics installed all the anodes, excepting that one. I was wondering if it is wired to the engine or to the external parts of the transom, like platform brackets, exhaust tips, or what so ever.

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