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Help w/04 trailer, keeps locking up w/o boat?

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  • Help w/04 trailer, keeps locking up w/o boat?

    Anyone, know why my single axle trailer keeps locking up when I try to stop when the boat isn't on the trailer?

    What do I need to do to fix this problem?

    I check the brake fluid, it's about 2/3 to 3/4 per manual. The lights are connected and seem to all work, but not on during the day.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please email us at amonette516@comcast.net

    Thanks
    Previous Boats: 04 X7, 98 190, 96 205, Sylvan Deck
    Thanks and best wishes, George & Sara Amonette
    770 634 5437
    amonette516@comcast.net

  • #2
    New Info. from MC

    I talked to Mark, Tech Support at the factory. He said thay have a small o ring like item, orfaset (sp) that can be put in the line to help reduce the pressure. He said to contact your dealer and ask them to order part number, 650680. He said putting it in the line was easy, but you would have to bleed the brakes afterwards.

    I recommended he come online and publish this official Mastercraft solution, but I don't think he thought it was a good idea.

    Good luck,
    I hope your dealers know about this too.
    Last edited by georgea0731; 09-07-2004, 06:47 PM. Reason: New Info. from MC
    Previous Boats: 04 X7, 98 190, 96 205, Sylvan Deck
    Thanks and best wishes, George & Sara Amonette
    770 634 5437
    amonette516@comcast.net

    Comment


    • #3
      George, my trailer did the same thing. If you have the flat trailer light connector, the fix is somewhat easy, but still a pain in the butt. You need to find which prong, on the tow vehicle connector, controls the running lights. Easy way to do this is turn your running lights (ie parking lights), take a testor light and probe the connector until it lights. Now what you need to do is plug the prong from the trailer harness that controls the back up lights( it's on the end and has three blue wires going to it) into the vehicle connector where the running lights operate.

      What this does is fool the trailer into thinking you are backing up( as long as your parking lights are on) and it closes the selonoid that allows the trailer brakes to operate. I know this is a pain in the butt, but it works! You just have to remember to reconnect the harness the correct way after you load your boat.

      Comment


      • #4
        You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by JimN
          You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.
          Jim he was asking for a way to stop the brakes from locking up when the trailer is empty! Doing what you suggest does nothing to help him. The ramp I have to go down at Lake Cumberland when loading my boat is a steep 45 degree grade. When the trailer is empty it still suges forward on the ball and activates the disc brakes. It is scary...damned scary how the trailer bucks on the way down the hill! Not to mention the embarressment from every one looking at you like you don't know what you are doing. Mastercraft should step to the plate and solve this problem.........but in the mean time, my advise is the only solution. You have to make the trailer think you are backing up so it closes the solenoid. I did say that the wires should be reconnected properly after you load the boat.

          Comment


          • #6
            This is not an issue that is fixable (with the current set-up). The trailer brakes are designed to assist in stopping a boat & trailer that weighs in excess of 3500lbs. If you remove 2620lbs from that equation ('04 PS 190 dry weight) then you have the breaking power of the above applied to an 880lbs trailer. You have lost the extra traction provided by the increased weight...weight is the single greatest factor for generating traction.

            The new couplers apply more braking force than the old ones...they also bring the vehicle to stop in a shorter distance, so they are safer. The trailer was not designed to be used on roadways and interstates in an "unloaded" condition. For moving short distances the only way is to activate the reverse solenoid (explained elsewhere in this thread)...however, please make sure that all components are correctly installed/coupled before you load the boat and head out on the road.
            "You do realize that a nutless monkey could do your job"

            Les Grossman

            Comment


            • #7
              Check out this thread on mymastercraft.com:

              http://www.mymastercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=65

              Comment


              • #8
                From all this I'm guessing that the newer trailers do not have the little pin that can be inserted to prevent the actuator from sliding back and engaging the brakes?
                "Measure your wealth not by the things you have, but by the things for which you would not take money."

                1994 MasterCraft ProStar 205, 275hp EFI -- Original Owner

                Comment


                • #9
                  The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.
                  "You do realize that a nutless monkey could do your job"

                  Les Grossman

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MYMC
                    The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.
                    So, other than my fix, the only other solution is to only drive in reverse when the trailer is empty???

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      03's have the same problem. The old actuactors (sp?) did not seem to be as sensitive as the new ones. Like mentioned earlier, you can reverse the plug and activate the reverse lights and lockout. Not great for night driving though. Going down big hills + no boat weight = Bucking Bull. A tandem trailer is even worse. Looks like the kids with cars that have the ability to "bounce" their cars.

                      As to trailers not designed to be driven empty.............Nice try.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This isn't a MasterCraft Trailer problem. It's a problem with all surge brake trailers, made worse by disk brakes.

                        I just duct tape a manual lockout into place so the brakes won't come on when the trailer is empty.
                        2002 MariStar 210 VRS 330hp, Tower, Perfect Pass Stargazer, Bimini, Triple KGB Ballast, 400w Clarion XMD3, Bennett X-14 Wake Plate, 1000+ hours and still running great!

                        Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pristine, well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "-- WOW--What a Ride!"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If all else fails (IAEF):

                          Since the backup solenoid is electrically activated, why not just install a switch that sends electrical current to the solenoid to close it when trailering without a boat? This could be as simple to install as a set of fog/driving lights. The same wire that provides the current from the backup lights to the trailer could be used. A rocker switch could be installed in the vehicle to "activate" the system, but some sort of "relay" would be required to prevent the current from flowing back to the backup lights (sorry, I'm electronically challenged so I'm not sure what type of device would be required to do this). The cost should be less than $20 and the only downside would be not having any trailer brakes when the system was activated, but this shouldn't be a problem because the trailers for many smaller boats don't even have brakes.
                          "Measure your wealth not by the things you have, but by the things for which you would not take money."

                          1994 MasterCraft ProStar 205, 275hp EFI -- Original Owner

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You could use a relay and switch, but you have to remember to turn it off, so a lighted switch is good here. The relay has a terminal for normally closed, which would let the reverse lights work as they normally do. Latch the relay and it doesn't matter if you go into reverse, there won't be a short since normally closed terminal goes nowhere at that point.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JimN
                              You could use a relay and switch, but you have to remember to turn it off, so a lighted switch is good here. The relay has a terminal for normally closed, which would let the reverse lights work as they normally do. Latch the relay and it doesn't matter if you go into reverse, there won't be a short since normally closed terminal goes nowhere at that point.
                              Actually that is what I did! Only I disconnected the regular backup lead to the harness. The only inconvenience is I have to remember to hit the switch when I am backing up. But on the way to the ramp , with an empty trailer, hit the switch, and no more embarressing trailer bouncing.

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