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Mastercraft Trailer Wheel Issue - help please

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  • Mastercraft Trailer Wheel Issue - help please

    Hello everyone,

    I bought an X30 -2006 model a couple months ago. I noticed this weekend that one of my wheels had oil leaking out of the oil bath bearing buddy.

    I thought to myself easy fix, well I ran into an issue with taking the wheel off. One of the studs just spins and spins when trying to take the lug nut off. I have no idea as to how I will get this wheel off since I can't get to the back of the stud.

    Has anybody else had this issue on any wheel before. What do I do?

  • #2
    Ouch... that's a horrible problem... probably have to cut the nut..
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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    • #3
      Heat it up. It might expand and stop spinning.
      sigpic
      When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.
      1 Corinthians Chapter 13 - 11

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      • #4
        Do you have access to air tools?

        With the wheel off the ground and all the other lug nuts off, spin the wheel so the last one is at the top. Put your foot on the bottom part of the wheel and your free hand wrapped over the top of the tire. Push in with your foot and pull out with your hand while running an air gun at max speed on the lug. If the bolt itself is stripped it should apply enough pressure on the base of the bolt and make it stick to the hub allowing the lug nut to come off. If the lug nut is stripped applying the pressure should make what's left of the threads bit and allow it to spin off.
        Tim
        Gone, surfing.

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        • #5
          I had the EXACT same problem last summer. 2006 X30 - boat was new to me. I first noticed the leak on the way home frame a Lake Powell trip, 5 hours from home - when I was still 2 hours from home, the oil was completely gone. Had to leave the boat in a small town and take supplies back the next weekend to replace the original, cracked plastic caps with the improved aluminum caps. I decided I would also replace the rear seals while I had things apart. When I got to the third wheel, one of the lug nuts was just spinning. Nothing I could do but leave that wheel alone and drag it home where I had the necessary tools - fortunately that one was not yet leaking.

          It is not the threads on the stud or the nut that are stripped - it is stripped where the splined stud is pressed into the rotor (Reliable brand strikes again). When I got home and was pulling things apart, I actually had another one strip on that same wheel! Now I had two of them to deal with before I could get the wheel of to change the cap and seal.

          If you rotate the wheel so the stripped stud is toward the front, bottom you should be able to just get past the brake caliper to get to the head of the stud from the back side. Get yourself a few good drill bits and start drilling until you have most of the head of the stud removed (being careful not to drill into the rotor itself). Take a good, heavy punch and hammer and drive the stud through from the back side.
          Once I had both studs off and the rotor removed I took it to a small, mom and pop auto parts store that I like. He was able to find two studs that had splines just large enough to bite when pressed into the slightly stripped out holes. If you can't find studs that will fit tight enough into the holes, you will have to replace the rotor.
          When I reassembled everything I put a little anti-seize on the threads of the studs and took the other three wheels back off to put it on those studs as well - I don't want to someday be caught on the side of the road needing to change a flat on the boat trailer and have another seized lug nut cause another bolt to strip out!
          Best of luck.

          It's been said before but is worth repeating - IF YOU HAVE RELIABLE BRAND OIL BATH HUBS WITH THE ORIGINAL PLASTIC CAPS, REPLACE THEM WITH THE ALUMINUM ONES BEFORE YOU ARE STRANDED! After replacing them, I realized the other three were also cracked and would have been leaking before long.
          Last edited by Skyskiguy; 09-15-2013, 11:07 PM.

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          • #6
            Ours broke on our 2003 x9. I'm not sure when it happened but we noticed it last trip when we were taking pictures of the boat to sale. I'll see if i have a picture with the wheel all black. It was a pain to clean.
            Current boat:


            2003 x9

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            • #7
              Here it is front left wheel. Thats as clean as we got it
              Attached Files
              Current boat:


              2003 x9

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              • #8
                Thanks everybody for the help. I got the wheel off today by drilling out the stud from the front side and snapping it. I'm now trying to figure out if I should just put a new stud back in the hub or if I should take it all apart and have the back of the stud tack welded on.

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                • #9
                  If the stud was spinning, I would replace the hub so this doesn't happen again.
                  - Peter
                  TANDEM AXLE PACKAGE - $950 DELIVERED WHEEL IMAGE
                  5 14X5.5 T06 WHEELS W/5 ST215/75R14 KENDA LOADSTAR RADIALS SS CENTER CAPS, LUGS, MOUNTED, BALANCED & READY TO INSTALL

                  PM or email me for tire, wheel or package pricing.
                  CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
                  LED lights, Chrome & Powder Coated Lugs
                  2 LED 6" BRAKE LIGHTS DELIVERED $25

                  tiresplease@gmail.com

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                  • #10
                    do you guys put grease or anti seize on the threads of the studs before putting lugs back on.

                    If you can find a local bearing house they can set you up with new seals for your hubs also, local auto parts store should have seal also. I brought mine in and they matched it for me.

                    Also make sure to use the proper weight of oil when you fill them back up

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by uplander View Post
                      do you guys put grease or anti seize on the threads of the studs before putting lugs back on.

                      If you can find a local bearing house they can set you up with new seals for your hubs also, local auto parts store should have seal also. I brought mine in and they matched it for me.

                      Also make sure to use the proper weight of oil when you fill them back up
                      I always use anti-seize on my lug nuts, apply only to the threaded portion of stud and make sure none is on the hub face or wheel and torque to oem specs, I have many years of use on several different vehicles and trailers and have never had one problem. Some folks are against the use of an anti-seize saying it causes nuts to loosen over time, well I have never experienced that including numerous customer vehicles I've applied to over the years. Permatex 765-1674 it even says for use on lug nuts.
                      James

                      1989 MasterCraft TriStar 190 SE
                      sigpic

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