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  • Swim platform restoration

    Iím getting around to what needs to be done to the boat. Itís pretty hard to accomplish these things because I'm in an apartment but I try. Here are the first pictures of the platform (its gross) after I backed into a tree and after about 20 min of sanding (my arm is KILLING me). I need to buy a electric sander. I removed the damaged piece so I can replace it. Anybody have suggestions that might help me out?



    1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
    351 - Powerslot
    Photos

  • #2
    I bought a cheapy Black and Decker Mouse sander. It has attachments that can get between the slats and fit into the grooves on mine. Search for the thread "Swim platforms can be beautiful". Detailed article on Teak platforms using 100,000 grit sand paper and Teak Sealer. His is nicer then the trim in my house! Travis

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    • #3
      100,000 grit??
      .

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      • #4
        I wouldn't go too crazy with the sander, preferably you'd try cleaning it first
        so you don't over do it on the sanding and remove a ton of wood.

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        • #5
          Im just removing the "grey wood" and going to coat it with some teak oil/sealer.
          1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
          351 - Powerslot
          Photos

          Comment


          • #6
            I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.
            Attached Files
            You don't have to buy a lake to own it~MasterCraft

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Workin' 4 Toys
              100,000 grit??
              Yes, that is correct. Have you never used it?

              It is a very fine paper indeed... LOL...

              I think they were called Zig-Zag in a previous life...
              93 190
              .
              Don't be a boot licker
              .

              Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8

              sigpic

              ..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

              RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
              NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

              feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

              .

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              • #8
                100k grit? That's gotta to be finer than a babys butt!

                Sporty that back end looks awesome

                uh.......... I am talking about your boat there just so you know
                Living like no one else so later we can live like no one else

                MC's owned:
                1986 Skier 19
                1995 ProStar 190
                2003 X-7
                1994 ProStar 205 (current)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by SKI*MC
                  I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.
                  First i need a transom worth saving....
                  1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
                  351 - Powerslot
                  Photos

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Put the new board on, before you sand anymore.

                    That way you can make them fit together as you work, instead of doing it seperately.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by brianaw26
                      First i need a transom worth saving....
                      It is a Mastercraft right???
                      Living like no one else so later we can live like no one else

                      MC's owned:
                      1986 Skier 19
                      1995 ProStar 190
                      2003 X-7
                      1994 ProStar 205 (current)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SKI*MC
                        I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.

                        Where can you get a transom saver?
                        sigpicwww.lauderdalelakesmarina.com

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jrandol
                          It is a Mastercraft right???
                          True..... My point being, a wakeboard/ski hitting the transom couldnít mess up the finish, because there is no finish left

                          That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.

                          I suppose while I do the platform I might as well do the guard
                          .
                          1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
                          351 - Powerslot
                          Photos

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by brianaw26
                            That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.
                            Take a lot of photos on that stringer replacement
                            If it ain't broke.......screw with it till it is!

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                            • #15
                              Best Teak process I have found

                              I cut/paste the following from another website. Follow the directions closely... this works very well.People have asked me what my secret is for achieving great looking teakwood, so I thought I would share my secret with all my MC friends. Be careful with these household chemicals. This is for outside use. I hold no responsibility to injury or loss resulting from misuse . . . well, you know the rest. Like it or not, making your teak look "showroom new" takes a little bit of time and work. The re's no quick way of getting the mildew stains out of teakwood. I've used lots of products on the market, mostly chemical bleaching agents but none have worked as well as the formula I got from an "old-time house painting" friend of mine. The Formula: (secret #1) 1 cup of Tri-Sodium Phosphate substitute. (available at most hardware & paint stores) If you can get real TSP, it's the best but TSP substitute works Okay. 2 Cups HOT water. (not boiling but hot) 1/2 Gallon of Clorox (or equiv.) Bleach. A good Teak Oil. *see note Equipment Needed: Old clothes (you'll ruin them with bleach stains!) Eye protection (protect your eyes!) Heavy rubber gloves (these household chemicals are corrosive to skin) Common household bucket (holds about 2 gals.) Plastic "medium bristle" scrub brush Garden hose without a nozzle attached (for rinse) A soft 2" paint brush Restoring "Perfect Teak" (the hard part) Do the following OUTSIDE. Ventilation is A MUST! Pour 2 cups HOT water into a household bucket. SLOWLY mix 1 cup of TSP in the bucket. Be careful NOT to inhale the fumes. (These fumes can cause permanent lung damage!) After the mix is solvent (a few minutes) pour in 1/2 gallon of bleach. Mix while you pour. You now have the formula to clean your teak. This formula will not harm plastics but may discolor your nibral prop or rudder. Protect with a plastic bag if this is of concern. Protect your (and anyone around) eyes from splash. Apply the mix with the plastic scrub brush to your teakwood. The mix (cleaner) will penetrate your wood over a 10-minute period. After 10 minutes, apply another coat and scrub firmly to help loosen dirt and debris. Do NOT rinse. Teak that has been neglected for some time will take several applications (using 10-minute intervals) before the black stains disappear. It is not unusual for this process to take up to 1.5 hours. Warning: Do NOT soak your small teakwood pieces in the bucket of teak cleaner. After the cleaning process, rinse the teakwood THOROUGHLY with cold running water from your garden hose. Use the scrub brush and scrub during rinsing. The teak cleaning solution MUST be removed completely before drying. Drying time will take about a day. (Less if you have a good hot sunny day) The teakwood must be completely dry before applying any oils. Towel drying will speed up the process. Applying teak oil on wet teakwood will likely cause mildew. After drying, lightly sand the teakwood using 240-grit sandpaper. This will remove the "fur" that appears after cleaning. After light sanding, use a soft paintbrush to clean the dust out of the grooves of the teakwood before applying the oil. *Applying a good Teak Oil: (secret #2) Choose an oil that has little or no Silicones and no wax. Silicones give your teak a "slimy" feel and wax additives make your teak look "frosty" in a few weeks. These additives are intended to repel water but I find they spoil the natural look and feel of teak a lot sooner. I have 2 good recommendations for Teak Oil if you ask, but a good quality Golden Teak Oil will do the job. Stay away from blends that contain silicones or wax. Teak Oil is best applied to dry teakwood in the hot sun. Several coats (8 or more!) applied 30 minutes apart while the hot sun "bakes" the oil deep into the teakwood is recommended. Apply liberally using a 2" soft paintbrush stroking with the grain of the wood. After 8 or more coats, let the wood "dry" overnight. After "drying" period, wipe with a soft dry towel. Your award-winning teakwood should now look better than "showroom new".

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