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2001 x 30 tower speaker wiring

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  • 2001 x 30 tower speaker wiring

    Hello,
    i have just bought the rev 3 some for my tower and a syn 6 to power the speakers. i am wondering what the best/easiest way to wire those speakers would be. I know i am going to have to be drilling holes in the tower which i don't have a problem with. i just wanted some ideas on how other people have wired their speakers with the 2001 x 30 tower. any recommendations and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. i am also redoing the four speakers in the boat and putting the xs650's in and powering them with a HT 4 and also putting in the WS 420, adding a second battery and isolator. hopefully this system will be pretty loud!

  • #2
    any help is greatly appreciated! also, is this tower hollow all the way through?

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    • #3
      Don't have any suggestions on wire routing but make sure it is heavy, 10ga would be ideal for those big 10s and lots of power. Prob do 12ga on the cans but unless you have multiple rolls of wire or are very space limited, bulk 10ga is prob the best option.

      Personally, I have not had/seen good luck with isolators and high power stereos. You would be money ahead using a standard perko and put the rest into an additional battery and onboard charger.

      System should rock the mids and highs! I bet this time next year you will be looking for subs to round out the system
      1991 MariStar 240sc, 454, tower, WetSounds, Krypt and Rockford Fosgate

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      • #4
        Bsloop,
        I have already ordered a 12 inch alpine type r subwoofer with a 1000 watt amp also, I forgot to add that. I have 250 feet of 12 gauge speaker wire for the speakers. I doin the isolator for 30 dollars so I figured I would try it out. I will probably end up replacing it with something else in the future.

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        • #5
          Sounds good. I have run my 485's with 12ga KnuKonceptz wire with good results (I assume) and 600w going to each. Just been getting an overall feeling 10ga is preferred with the larger 10" woofers to give max bass headroom, just like they would in a sub installation.

          Chart from Steve Mead Designs - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...irefuse-guide/
          Speaker wire is down a little ways on the list.

          Interesting how the wattage drops and resistance decreases.

          Really think you need to look at 3-4 batteries in the stereo bank if you are running 3 amps. Those 10" and subs will eat power, regardless if you have efficient amps. More batteries will help the life of the entire bank by not running down as often (hopefully).
          Unless you have done some serious alt upgrading, don't try to play the stereo hard leaving the cove with low batteries trying to charge. You WILL cook an alt.
          1991 MariStar 240sc, 454, tower, WetSounds, Krypt and Rockford Fosgate

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          • #6
            Ryan,

            Greetings from Colorado! Your English sucks ***! Good to know that private education is working out. See you at the end of the week.

            Love,

            Your older and much more intelligent brother, Matt.

            PS. it was 70 here last night and there is snow on the ground today.

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            • #7
              how you wire the tower depends on which bar you want to hang the speakers on. i just went through this. the speakers that were already installed were mounted on the rear bar but the wires were routed out holes in the front bar. having clearance for my bimini was a priority so i really didn't have a choice. it was a real pita to get the wire from the front to the back. if i was starting from scratch i'd strongly consider routing the wires up the back bar. i know this would mean that a) you could never put your tower down or b) you'd have to add some type of connection point external to the tube. as my wires already went up the front leg, i chose to keep that orientation and just route the wire through the middle bar that connects the front and rear tube. there is a hole drilled in the front and back to allow the wire for the all around white light. it isn't very big and honestly i had a heck of a time just passing jacketed 14ga. if you enlarged the holes, you would have to remove the wire to the light first or it would be destroyed in the process.

              here's my thread on this topic with some pictures and lots of good advice.

              http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=52345

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              • #8
                As mentioned above, run the wires through the center oblong pipe where the marker light wires are. Luckily the holes in my tower were larger and i was able to get two runs of 14 gauge through no problem. I used the tc3 swivel clamps to mount mine but my outer cans are feed externally thru wires coming from the front pipe where the factory cans where. Use weather pak connectors at the tower joint so you can remove the tower if ever necessary.

                -jason

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                • #9
                  Looks like you are getting some good advice. I second the quick disconnect.... Is there any type of mounting equipment that will deter these things from walking away?

                  You better buy me a drink or something this weekend. I find it funny that the year I move out the boat gets 6k in stereo equipment. ***!

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                  • #10
                    That's system is gonna thump. I agree with the above regarding a 3 or 4 bank system. If you plan on party coving it or swimming with it that system is going to suck your single battery dead quick. I say single because you are going to want to make sure you have a safety/ starter battery so you can fire up after draining your stereo battery.


                    That is boat is gonna rock tho.
                    CURRENT: 2008 SANTE 210

                    2000 Mastercraft Xstar
                    2004,2005 Ski Centurion Avalanche C4
                    2003, Ski Centurion Cyclone
                    99,2000,2001, 2002 Ski Centurion Elite V/Hurricane/lightning
                    88 2001 Nautique

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                    • #11
                      swatguy,

                      when you say a three bank system do you mean that i should use one battery for starting and two for the stereo, or are you saying that i should use three batteries for the stereo alone and one for starting?


                      jafo9,

                      i think you are correct with the quick disconnect idea. if i ran the wires up the rear bar then they would have to come out and be exposed in two spots. i think that it would still be easier to wire the tower from the rear bar instead of having to use a vacuum or magnet. what do you think about this?

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                      • #12
                        If the goal is to be BIG in the cove for more than 2-3 hrs, 4 31 series batteries in your stereo bank minimum, PLUS a start battery. Those bigger 10s and 12s will consume substantially more power than someone bragging how long they can rock with some 6.5's (of course you will dominate their sound) Big surface area requires big power to move it.
                        Example - My RF 1500bd1 first powered 4 10 kicker cvr's, then I stepped up to 2 15" L7s. The 15s move WAY more air, louder of course, but my batteries draw down much quicker. BTW, I run 2 optima blue 34 and 3 kinetic 2400s backed up by a genny and power supply. I have the experience and been though the learning curve, just trying to give you a heads up.

                        4 31 series deep cycle or 2 4D deep cycle (check out Interstate). The 4D will last longer due to the general characteristics of a single larger battery out performing several smaller of the same total rating. Don't believe me, check out Earmarks x80 install where they used 4 6v golf cart batteries (also and option). Btw, Kinetiks are sweet but Expensive. I got all 3 for $400; installed less than a month, from a guy going away to jail; opportunity
                        Make sure you have a 30+ amp charger and plug in every night.

                        It never fails, you get 3+ hrs in, party is rock'n and voltage is dropping. Buzzkill. Then douche mode sets in and you start the motor to charge the batteries. Motor creates noise so the music is not as loud, carbon monoxide danger, at idle alternator does not put out more than 30-40amps so you will end up burning up the alternator. Idling for 1-2 more hours burn a CRAP LOAD of gas that at $4/gal you could have put into more batteries. I have burned $50 easy in gas keeping the afternoon party going before.

                        $6k is already spent on equipment why cheap out on another couple hundred that will let you continue to enjoy the system and boat? (not to mention, the less often batteries are depleted, the longer they will last)
                        1991 MariStar 240sc, 454, tower, WetSounds, Krypt and Rockford Fosgate

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                        • #13
                          so i ended up taking the blue top back and getting two worldwide deep cycle batteries that are massive. I thought the blue top was overpriced for what it is. I got the new batteries from my local Nautique dealership and they said that i should need two or three of those. i will start out with two for now and if needed, then i will purchase a third one. Also, i went out and bought a battery tender for the stereo batteries as was recommended by a few people on this forum and by the guys at the Nautique dealership. I have also decided to buy some weatherproof quick disconnectors for wiring the tower speakers through the rear tower bar. I think this way the tower speaker install will be easier. I appreciate all the help you have given me and any more advice is greatly appreciated!
                          Last edited by racrowe; 04-10-2013, 10:54 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by racrowe View Post

                            i think you are correct with the quick disconnect idea. if i ran the wires up the rear bar then they would have to come out and be exposed in two spots. i think that it would still be easier to wire the tower from the rear bar instead of having to use a vacuum or magnet. what do you think about this?
                            rear bar would be much easier to fish. just have to add the waterproof connectors. i've been wiring my houses for years and have collected several different tools to fish walls, ceilings, etc. the tool i found most useful for the tower was a cheap POS round plastic fish tape from harbor freight. probably cost 2 bucks. all of my "real" fish tools were too big for the holes i had drilled.

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                            • #15
                              Dont forget to try a shop vac and string uf the tape doesnt work. I dismissed it at first but after trying to fish around a 90 degree bend for iver an hour, i decided to give the string and vac method a try. I didnt think it would work, so wasnt expecting much. To my surprise it took me longer to get the string and vac than it did to get it thru the tower. I have the 6.5hp version, not sure if the results are different on smaller/larger versions.

                              -jason

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