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  • Shaft Log Replacement

    I have a pretty worn looking shaft log and I need to replace it before it cracks and I get big problems. My shaft alignment seems pretty good right now and I'm not trying to tackle that any time soon.
    If I disconnect the shaft coupler from tranny and pop off the flange, should I be able to just bolt it all back up without needing to do an alignment?

  • #2
    I assume you mean "shaft log hose" and not the shaft log itself, which is made of brass and usually fiberglassed right to the boat.

    Replacing the log hose will have no effect on alignment (only strut location and powertrain placement will)... but the fact that you said it "seems pretty good" means its probably overdue. Why you would try to avoid checking it while everything is apart is beyond me.

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    • #3
      There's a member that just completed this task. You may want to search for this topic... There's a coplete write up on this.

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      • #4
        Double Post because of the VERY SLOW internet here in the South China Sea.... Sorry....

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        • #5
          I guess what I meant by pretty good is that there is no gaps anywhere between the coupler flanges and get no vibration under power. For my knowledge, that would mean alignment is good to me, but maybe I'm missing something.
          Yes, I did mean the shaft log hose, my bad. I've researching the shaft alignment in case that is necessary.

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          • #6
            Reseach done!

            d726895324900b93a382694af7504eb6.doc

            But, yes, you should be able to bolt everything back together without affecting the existing alignment. But taking off the coupler and separating it from the shaft is a reasonably big job; spending an extra hour to line everything up while you're working on the shaft already seems like a really good choice to me.
            1998 Maristar 200VRS

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            • #7
              Oh, and you'll probably need to replace the packing once you pull the stuffing box off the propshaft. Order it with the other stuff - 3/16" for 1-1/8" shafts, 1/4" for 1" shafts.
              1998 Maristar 200VRS

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              • #8
                Originally posted by homer12 View Post
                I guess what I meant by pretty good is that there is no gaps anywhere between the coupler flanges and get no vibration under power. For my knowledge, that would mean alignment is good to me, but maybe I'm missing something.
                Yes, I did mean the shaft log hose, my bad. I've researching the shaft alignment in case that is necessary.
                I assume you are looking at the 2 flanges when they are mated or bolted together? If so, that is meaningless, as those bolts can hide gross misalignment (1/4" +).

                Misalignment will also not cause any vibration at speed. The excessive side loading of both the shaft within the strut and transmission internals will not cause any outward symptoms, save for uneven strut bushing wear and premature transmission failure. Nothing you can easily see or hear underway though.

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                • #9
                  Thanks fellas! I'm now convinced that when I get it disassembled I'll be checking all the alignment now and making adjustments as necessary. Doesn't sound too difficult, but maybe just time consuming because of a learning curve.
                  I plan to replace the shaft log hose and repack the stuffing box and get the shaft alignment done.

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                  • #10
                    You have joined the path of wisdom, my son. Soon your latent MCOCD will be more powerful than you could imagine!
                    1998 Maristar 200VRS

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                    • #11
                      Got it started

                      So I got this started yesterday and having issues getting the coupler off the shaft (surprise, surprise ). At least 3 years ago the PO told me he had bent the shaft and had replaced it so this drivetrain have been taken apart before.
                      So far, I have put penetrating grease in it and tried with a 2-bolt puller to get it off. I have not wanted to use the transmission coupler as a press for fear of bending or breaking. Well, I've already broken a bolt with so much tension. What do you think for my next attempt - use heat and keep pulling or find from flat steel and make a 4-bolt plate to pull against? Here's some pics: You can see my homemade coupler wrench that worked pretty well. You can also see the bolt I snapped off.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Couple has some corrosion as you see. Probably some corrosion on the inside as well. I wouldn't try to force it off too much. Spray some more penetrating oil... keep the tension on it. I would heat it, use penetrating oil and tap at it while under tension.

                        Is the key still look lined up straight?

                        Will probably take a be a few days before it gives way.
                        sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                        • #13
                          Thanks Mike! Key looks to be in good shape and lined up fine in key slot.
                          When using heat can you cause harm using too much? I've got a torch I can use. Also, will it pop off or just gradually start sliding off under tension? I put a small Sharpie line on the shaft to see if I was making any progress at all.

                          Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            It will pop... had this trouble on a benz with wheels not coming off on rotation...

                            regarding heat... I would just heat the union of the coupler and shaft... some one else here had the same trouble - took a few days but it popped off... heating the union should help penetrating oil to get deeper...

                            Heat and tapping the coupler when under tension should break it loose - I am always amazed how a little corrosion will lock something up when there are tight tolerances.

                            Darn can't find the thread.
                            sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                            • #15
                              Man, the more research I do leads me to more questions. Do most people heat the couplers in the oven to expand them to refit/reinstall them or just crank down on the nut real tight? Also, is it recommended to use some anti-sieze on the mating surface for future removal? thanks a ton for the help so far Mike.

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