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  • Homemade Fake-a-Lake

    Using a number of ideas from this forum as well as lessons learned along the way in my 2000 Prostar 205V, here is my homemade fake-a-lake system. I wanted to use the "bucket" method because I have low water pressure at the hose and because I wanted to be able to suck water into the engine, so I scrapped the idea of making a Fake-a-Lake with a plunger (although I'm convinced it could be done for $5 or so).

    What I ended up doing was using a ball valve (no flow restriction) screwed onto the original thru-hull intake. Running the ball valve wide open would be for normal operation, allowing the water pump to draw from the lake. Closing the ball valve allows me to "tap" into the raw water line without sending some of the water back out the bottom of the boat, also ensuring no air leakage. This picture shows what the system looks like for normal operation.



    When I'm back in the driveway for winterization procedures, I close the ball valve and attach a hose to a galvanized T-fitting, so the water flows through the T-fitting and into the raw water pump.




    Notice I had to cut my spa hose into two parts in order to assemble it in such a tight space. I wanted the system to be easy to assemble, yet 100% secure and airtight.



    I can place a ten foot non-collapsable spa hose into a bucket next to the engine, and the suction is great for water or anti-freeze.
    2000 ProStar 205V

  • #2
    While I was at it, I also installed the Y-adapter for the heater to run hot at low RPM's. This involved cutting into the raw-water hose and installing the Y fitting that I bought from Wakeside for $35. I also had to cut about 5 feet off of the 5/8" return hose from the heater which previously ran into the back of the engine.




    All of the installations were in "theory" and not necessarily guaranteed to work, but I can report that the boat has been lake and driveway tested extensively and the whole system works great, and I even have heat at low RPM's now.

    Thought I'd share some pics if it would help anybody in the future!
    Last edited by etakk7; 10-24-2006, 09:18 AM.
    2000 ProStar 205V

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    • #3
      pretty neat....but get those leaves outta there
      KEEP YA TOES UP!!!!!

      2004 X9 MCX ALL BLACK


      http://www.prwb.net/tallington/index.php?id=12


      nice older x-boat at berth in the advertisment above

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      • #4
        Looks good!
        -Cameron
        2007 ProStar 197
        1996 ProStar 190

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        • #5
          I have not experienced it first hand but people say that a wet leaf and white vinyl do not mix! Luckily I did it on a dry day. Unfortunately, on October 4 at the cabin in Northern Wisconsin it's very difficult to keep leaves out of the boat! I made sure to vacuum once it was safely in the garage.
          2000 ProStar 205V

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          • #6
            Nice job. Will cut down on the time for sure. Make sure you have adequate water pressure at your house to keep up with the boat.
            Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

            Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

            FAQ


            Tyler Ski Club


            To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

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            • #7
              Yes, that was my concern, so I use a 5 gallon bucket, filled to the top, then start up the engine and keep the hose going into the bucket. The boat pulled in the water slightly faster than the house could pump it into the bucket, but I was able to run the boat long enough to get up to operating temp.
              2000 ProStar 205V

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              • #8
                Nice looking install! I would like the same thing in my boat.

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                • #9
                  What size ball valve and other plumbing id you use? Where did you acquire it? Thanks, Jamie
                  Currently Boatless, searching for next boat SN 196...?
                  Previous Boats:
                  99 MasterCraft SportStar CB
                  98 Moomba Boomerang 310 HP 350 Carb
                  88 MC PowerSlot 240 HP 351 Carb Black on White

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                  • #10
                    Looks Great! I have some questions about this whole thing. Why not just disconnect the hose from the through hull intake and put it in a bucket from there? Is the ball valve necesary or is it just something else to worry about when putting the boat back in the real lake come spring? Just questions from a rookie boat owner. Like I said the setup LOOKS great.
                    Hard work beats talent, when talent doesn't work hard!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by VTJC
                      What size ball valve and other plumbing id you use? Where did you acquire it? Thanks, Jamie
                      I built one similar for my boat last week. Attached is the parts list of what I got, all that is not needed on there are the brass screws, and you need to get hose clamps for it, I already had those. I ordered from McMaster-Carr at noon and the parts were at my house by 4pm via UPS. I used a washing machine hose to hook up from the hose to the intake on my system, but any female to female hose will work.
                      Attached Files
                      _________________________________
                      2004 X10 Predator 5.7L

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                      • #12
                        I bought everything at Home Depot. I can't remember exactly what the ID of the ball valve is, but it screws onto the thru-hull water pickup fitting. Previously, the raw water intake hose was clamped onto this fitting. I know the raw water intake hose is 1 1/4 OD, and I believe 1" ID. Therefore I believe the ball valve was 1" ID. All the other plumbing should be the same.

                        I would take off your raw water hose from the thru-hull and measure first, since you will need it to come off anyway. That was the toughest part of the process for me, I actually had to cut mine off it was on there so well. When you have determined the ball valve size, just pick up the rest of the fittings right there in the store to make sure they fit. Also pick up some pipe thread sealer to keep things airtight.
                        2000 ProStar 205V

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                        • #13
                          loeweb, that was the initial plan. As it turns out, the hose was a royal, royal pain to get off of the thru-hull fitting. I had to cut the darn thing off. After getting it off, I didn't feel like I could get it on there very securely unless I screwed it on, which is very difficult to do in such a tight space with such a non-flexible hose. The way I've got it set up now there is no risk of a hose popping loose.

                          Beyond that, because the hose was so non-flexible and also not very long, it would not have reached a bucket. This may work in some direct drives, but not in my v-drive boat. I need a bucket both for the lack of garden hose water pressure, and to be able to suck antifreeze from a bucket.

                          Obviously it would be catestrophic if the ball valve were closed when I ran the boat in the lake. Although I'm confident that it could not close on it's own, I'll probably use a couple strong zip ties just to be sure.
                          2000 ProStar 205V

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by etakk7
                            loeweb, that was the initial plan. As it turns out, the hose was a royal, royal pain to get off of the thru-hull fitting. I had to cut the darn thing off. After getting it off, I didn't feel like I could get it on there very securely unless I screwed it on, which is very difficult to do in such a tight space with such a non-flexible hose. The way I've got it set up now there is no risk of a hose popping loose.

                            Beyond that, because the hose was so non-flexible and also not very long, it would not have reached a bucket. This may work in some direct drives, but not in my v-drive boat. I need a bucket both for the lack of garden hose water pressure, and to be able to suck antifreeze from a bucket.

                            Obviously it would be catestrophic if the ball valve were closed when I ran the boat in the lake. Although I'm confident that it could not close on it's own, I'll probably use a couple strong zip ties just to be sure.
                            I installed mine inline with the hose with my vdrive. Worked great winterizing the boat and I can also hook the garden hose directly up to it.
                            _________________________________
                            2004 X10 Predator 5.7L

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                            • #15
                              before or after tranny cooler

                              does it matter if the fake a lake is hooked up before or after the tranny cooler? I know on my '88 the hose is so short from the intake to the cooler that it wouldn't reach to a bucket, but from the cooler to the impeller pump, that hose woould reach. with the boat just idling the cooler is a non factor right?
                              Hard work beats talent, when talent doesn't work hard!

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