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  • Blowing Water out of Engine

    I've been doing a lot of reading on here about various winterization procedures. I want to do the winterization myself, because my local dealer charges $300+ to drain the block, fog cylinders, and add fuel stabilizer.

    So, my question is: do any of you use compressed air to blow the water out, rather than just draining the block or adding RV antifreeze. Is this a good way to winterize?

    My local dealer claims they do not use antifreeze as it can cause corrosion over time. They say they blow the block out with air.

    I've searched around and found lots of threads on adding RV antifreeze, but really nothing on blowing the block out with air.

    This is my 1st winterization on my '02 X-Star (just bought it a month ago), so I want to make sure I don't cost myself a short block (or any other damage, for that matter).

    Thanks in advance.
    2002 X-Star w/ LTR

  • #2
    I would just drain the block and manifolds if I were you. That way you know for sure there is no more h2o in there.

    What part of Western Canada you from? Im in Western Alberta.
    1992 PS190 351HO

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    • #3
      I don't used compressed air. I don't even think it's a good idea. Just pull the two petcocks in the block, the plugs at the rear of the manifolds, the plug at the bottom of the silencer. Fog it, change the oil... etc. I don't use antifreeze, but I'm in a heated garage. Is your boat outside? You'd want to put a de-humidifier and maybe a trouble light under the cover. If you're in BC, that will be enough to keep it from freezing.
      Some mornings it just doesn't seem worth it to gnaw through the leather straps. -Emo Phillips

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      • #4
        I'm in BC. The boat will be in an unheated garage in the Okanagan. Unfortunately, I can't do the trouble light trick because there is no power during the winter.
        2002 X-Star w/ LTR

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        • #5
          I use JimN's method of running the boat in the driveway and putting three gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine, then drain out as much as possible and removing the four engine plugs and two in the exhaust manifold. Then removing the front hoses from the lower connection point. Cold enough here in MN and I have had no problems.
          - Peter
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          • #6
            i pour atinfreeze into the raw water hose till it comes out the exhaust. familyt has been doing it for years.
            Billy "Shamrock IV" Burgess Jr.

            Resident TeamTalk Jacka$$
            2002 black X30
            1973 s&s project
            Look for me on CHL!! I am in the black X30 with the stars and stripes flying off the tower!!!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by G-Star View Post
              I've been doing a lot of reading on here about various winterization procedures. I want to do the winterization myself, because my local dealer charges $300+ to drain the block, fog cylinders, and add fuel stabilizer.

              So, my question is: do any of you use compressed air to blow the water out, rather than just draining the block or adding RV antifreeze. Is this a good way to winterize?

              My local dealer claims they do not use antifreeze as it can cause corrosion over time. They say they blow the block out with air.

              I've searched around and found lots of threads on adding RV antifreeze, but really nothing on blowing the block out with air.

              This is my 1st winterization on my '02 X-Star (just bought it a month ago), so I want to make sure I don't cost myself a short block (or any other damage, for that matter).

              Thanks in advance.

              For open cooling systems;
              Drain block and manifolds of all water (remove plugs).
              Re-install all plugs
              Remove freshwater inlet hose and insert big *** funnel.
              Start engine and begin pouring RV anti freeze into funnel (at same time).
              When you get pink liquid coming out exhaust --- shut everything down (takes about 3 gals.)
              Drain block and manifolds of all RV anti-freeze (remove all plugs/hoses etc).
              You're done - takes me about 10 mins and my boat has seen -45'F in the winter.
              Last edited by JDK; 09-17-2010, 03:11 PM.

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              • #8
                I just drain everything and put a funnel on the raw water hose going to the thermostat. Hold that hose up as high as I can and pour rv antifreeze into it. Usually about three gallons or less. Works like a charm.
                Last edited by east tx skier; 09-28-2010, 02:28 PM.
                Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

                Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

                FAQ


                Tyler Ski Club


                To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

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                • #9
                  the plug at the bottom of the silencer.
                  Wha' dat???? Suppose that you mean the mufflers? If so, I have never done that, and have never had a problem.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by east tx skier View Post
                    I just drain everything and put a funnel on the raw water hose going to the thermostat. Hold that hose up as high as I can and pour rv antifreeze into it. Usually about two gallons or less. Works like a charm.
                    Doubtful if your getting much (or any) antifreeze into the block if you're not running the engine while it's hot (thermostat will be closed, and you'll have huge air bubbles unless circ. pump is moving water).

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                    • #11
                      I pull the spark plugs before fogging directly into the cylinders. You can pull the safety switch and bump the engine over very briefly to blow any water out of the cylinders. Then fog as normal. Pulling the safety switch ensures you don't accidentally start your engine out of the water. I would never use an air compressor to blow air through the engine. I would be scared of getting any dirt or debris in places it shouldn't be. However, I do use the compressor to get the water out of the hose connected to my heater.
                      30th Anniversary Edition Stars and Stripes 190
                      http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...n_GT/42n9y.gif

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                      • #12
                        Only thing I blow out is the heater and I just do that by hand and add some antifreeze to it because it's about impossible to get all the water out of the heater core in some configurations. I antifreeze the ballast lines/tanks as well. Engine and shower just get drained.
                        '06 X2 MCX

                        "I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JDK View Post
                          Doubtful if your getting much (or any) antifreeze into the block if you're not running the engine while it's hot (thermostat will be closed, and you'll have huge air bubbles unless circ. pump is moving water).
                          Not on a PCM. This is precisely how the PCM manual for my boat says to do it. On top of the thermostat housing which has 3 hoses going to the manifold. The hose that goes from the raw water pump up to the housing will bypass the thermostat and fill the block. and also up in that same housing there is a bypass to dump water to the exhaust. Under normal operation, once the thermostat opens more water will exit to the exhaust

                          I believe the answer is different with Indmar. Depending on year, people on here may still be working with PCM. Sorry for the confusion. But this method works just fine for getting antifreeze to the block on my motor.

                          Good explanation as it pertains to the circulation system on a PCM motor here.

                          Also, for anyone who is just draining, take the boat and trailer on a little ride, preferably over some hills. You'd be surprised at the extra water that manages to work its way out.
                          Last edited by east tx skier; 09-28-2010, 03:16 PM.
                          Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

                          Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

                          FAQ


                          Tyler Ski Club


                          To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Everyone has their own winterization procedure and for the most part they all achieve the same effect. Some people prefer to drain the block, others prefer to fill it with anti-freeze, and some like to drain the block and then fill it with anti-freeze. You can pour the anti-freeze in through a hose or suck it up through the raw water pump. Do whatever makes you feel confident that no water remains in the engine.

                            Personally:

                            1. Drain oil
                            2. Remove block plug, knock sensor and 2 manifold plugs; reinstall plugs when water stops draining
                            3. Disconnect hoses and shake out excess water
                            4. Remove thermostat so that anti-freeze circulates into block
                            5. Reconnect hoses
                            6. Change oil filter
                            7. Re-fill oil
                            8. Stick 1 1/4" ID clear flexible hose into bucket with 5 gallons of anti-freeze and connect hose to intake side of raw water pump
                            9. Run engine until bucket is empty
                            10. Remove spark plugs, fog each cylinder and re-install spark plugs
                            11. Disconnect kill switch and crank engine for 3 seconds
                            12. Disconnect battery
                            13. Cover and close garage door
                            1996 Prostar 190, 350 TBI and Powerslot

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                            • #15
                              Are you saying there is no difference between the ability to pour antifreeze into a PCM motor cold versus Indmar? I'm all for letting people do what makes them happy. But I have read that the circulation differences between these two marinizations may make that less of a possibility. Then again, I read lots of stuff.
                              Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

                              Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

                              FAQ


                              Tyler Ski Club


                              To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.

                              Comment

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