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  • Winterization of an LT1 - Checklist

    Well.. first time winterization of an LT1. I have read tons of posts and modified Eastie's (JimN?) checklist and supply list to be specific to the LT1. I have chosen to drain the block, fill with antifreeze and dry block again as it seems a bit more fool proof for noobies and meets all concerns. I have also re-orderd the checklist a bit so you can go right down the list in order. So... have a look and let me know what you think.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by jakethebt; 10-07-2012, 10:08 PM.
    sigpic1996 Prostar 205 LT-1

  • #2
    Originally posted by jakethebt View Post
    Well.. first time winterization of an LT1. I have read tons of posts and modified Eastie's (JimN?) checklist and supply list to be specific to the LT1. I have chosen antifreeze vs dry block as it seems a bit more fool proof for noobies. I have also re-orderd them a bit so you can go right down the list in order. So... have a look and let me know what you think.
    I would recommend VR1 Synthetic 20w50 or Royal Purple HPS 20w50. 1996 I believe still a flat tappet engine.
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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    • #3
      Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
      I would recommend VR1 Synthetic 20w50 or Royal Purple HPS 20w50. 1996 I believe still a flat tappet engine.
      the LT1 is a roller engine
      1981 MasterCraft
      19' Skier 351W PowerSlot
      Long gone is the Trans AM waiting for another

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      • #4
        I had a hard time just finding 20W50. Only brand I could find was valvoline. I was hoping for a choice or two. Maybe Mobil1. This was just this past spring. Maybe this fall I will find a better selection.
        sigpic1996 Prostar 205 LT-1

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jakethebt View Post
          I had a hard time just finding 20W50. Only brand I could find was valvoline. I was hoping for a choice or two. Maybe Mobil1. This was just this past spring. Maybe this fall I will find a better selection.
          i would run good 10w30 on an LT1 the bearing clearances do not warrant 50W oil
          1981 MasterCraft
          19' Skier 351W PowerSlot
          Long gone is the Trans AM waiting for another

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 1redTA View Post
            the LT1 is a roller engine
            Cool - wasn't sure...was looking it up and found flat tapped on '94s - would still run VR1 Synthetic/Royal Purple
            sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 1redTA View Post
              i would run good 10w30 on an LT1 the bearing clearances do not warrant 50W oil
              Everything that I can find say 20w50.

              Oil was about the last thing I figured we would be talking about after posting the winterization list... I guess you guys think the tasks, order, etc are ok?
              sigpic1996 Prostar 205 LT-1

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              • #8
                I don't use antifreeze on mine. Was told its bad for the alum heads. Assuming you are using rv stuff, not real antifreeze which would be un tree huggerish.
                Also i think I've been using 15/40 for a while now.

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                • #9
                  X2 on the antifreeze. I've heard the plumbing antifreeze is hard on the aluminum heads. I leave my LT-1 dry.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jakethebt View Post
                    Everything that I can find say 20w50.

                    Oil was about the last thing I figured we would be talking about after posting the winterization list... I guess you guys think the tasks, order, etc are ok?
                    order looks good...to me at least...
                    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                    • #11
                      Jake, well done. It's now, that time of year and have yet to winterize my LT1 myself....just keep bringing it to the dealer. I do have an appointment in a few weeks to winterize, new impellar and change tranny for $500 so quite a bit. After reading your info, it doesn't look too hard.

                      Appreciate you doing/modifying a good procedure list.....it will definitely help!

                      RV antifreeze be OK?
                      - Jeff

                      1994 205, LT1

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ski-me View Post
                        Jake, well done. It's now, that time of year and have yet to winterize my LT1 myself....just keep bringing it to the dealer. I do have an appointment in a few weeks to winterize, new impellar and change tranny for $500 so quite a bit. After reading your info, it doesn't look too hard.

                        Appreciate you doing/modifying a good procedure list.....it will definitely help!

                        RV antifreeze be OK?
                        What is included for $500?

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                        • #13
                          Thank you Jake for two excellent write-ups on LT1 winterization. I will be performing my first winterization soon, and specifics for the LT1 are very helpful. The supply list with part numbers is especially handy. Nice job.
                          1998 MariStar 200 VRS, LT1, PowerSlot

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                          • #14
                            RV anitfreeze is not good with aluminum. I would just leave it dry.

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                            • #15
                              I didn't see anything on those lists about removing the hull plug(s), putting them in a plastic bag and attaching them to the steering wheel or throttle. They can be put in a cup holder, but that allows for them being moved and mis-placed. If the boat somehow gets wet and the plug(s) aren't out, bad things happen.

                              RV anti-freeze is bad for the heads. This was hammered into our heads at MC training every time I went. It may not happen after one time, but it's not worth risking, IMO.

                              If no anti-freeze is used, remove the hoses on the engine at their lowest points and turn them so any water in them can drain out. Crank the engine to clear the raw water pump or loosen the cover plate, to allow any water that's above it to drain out.

                              At some point, the bearings and brakes on the trailer need to be serviced- at least check them, annually if the boat is trailered frequently.

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