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89 prostar 190.. winterization (need a pic please)

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  • 89 prostar 190.. winterization (need a pic please)

    I hate to start a topic because there are already so many, but i don't fully understand this process..

    I have a 89 prostar 190 and I have open the valves on both sides of the block... drained the water and I pulled the plugs from the manifolds and drained the water from both of them as well

    I see people making custom buckets and hooking them up to what appears the water pump..

    Why do you have to modify the bucket? Couldn't I just fill a bucket up with marine antifreeze and use a hose to suck it through?

    Could someone PLEASE help me out and show me exactly which hose i need to undo to pump antifreeze through the whole engine?

    Also i have already put my boat in the back yard.. far away from water for me to run a fake-a-lake to make the engine reach operating temperature, is this TOTALLY necessary?

    I was going to buy about 4 gallons of antifreeze and just run it until it comes out the exhaust.

    ANY pictures or help would be me much appreciated...

    It's getting down to 30 here over the weekend and makes me nervous
    89 Mastercraft Prostar 190

  • #2
    http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=57925

    That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.

    Comment


    • #3
      I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

      I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
      I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.
      Bailey
      '02 X-9
      Lake Blue Ridge

      Comment


      • #4
        CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.

        CNC routing, Signs, Plaques, 3D carving/turning, Butcher blocks

        Comment


        • #5
          I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

          I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.
          -Matt

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by CruisinGA View Post
            This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.
            Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?
            -Matt

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by TSchimizzi View Post
              http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=57925

              That should answer all your questions. I used 6 gallons.
              I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures

              Originally posted by CruisinGA View Post
              I may be in the minority but I do not run my engine to winterize. There is no water at my storage/winterizing location and I do not like having to 'trust' that the engine is warm enough for the thermostat to be open and allow antifreeze into the engine.

              I drain the block and manifolds as you have (which alone should be enough), and then remove the thermostat housing and pour in RV antifreeze until it comes out of the block drains. RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is more dense than water, so it should displace any water remaining in low spots within the block.
              I then button it back up so that in the spring all I do is install a new impeller and drop the boat in the water. This method does require that I buy a $2 thermostat housing gasket every year.
              Originally posted by blackhawk View Post
              CruisinGA - I do my engine just like you except that I don't remove the thermostat housing. I just remove the large hose at the thermostat housing and then pour my antifreeze into that hose. The AF will then flow down through the engine water pump and fill up the block. On the two boats that I have the AF will eventually run out where the thermostat housing where I took off the hose. I wondered the first time that I did it, how the AF gets by the thermostat. But I found out that most thermostats have a bleeder hole which is meant to let any air pockets escape from the block. The antifreeze will eventually pass through this hole and out the housing. At that point you know the block is full.
              Originally posted by bochnak View Post
              I unhooked the raw water intake hose after trans cooler, swiveled it up, and poured RV with a funnel. I used 3gal and it was not enough to to go through the exhaust out back. Block and exhaust are full though.

              I would also disconnect hoses and loosen impeller cover to get more water out.
              Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

              I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

              This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

              Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them
              89 Mastercraft Prostar 190

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by bochnak View Post
                Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?
                Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.
                - Peter
                TANDEM AXLE PACKAGE - $950 DELIVERED
                5 14X5.5 T06 WHEELS W/5 ST215/75R14 KENDA LOADSTAR RADIALS SS CENTER CAPS, LUGS, MOUNTED, BALANCED & READY TO INSTALL


                PM or email me for tire, wheel or package pricing.
                CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
                LED lights, Chrome & Powder Coated Lugs
                2 LED 6" BRAKE LIGHTS DELIVERED $25

                tiresplease@gmail.com

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 89mastercraft View Post
                  I checked that thread out and could not see well enough in the pictures







                  Could one of you guys be kind enough to show me a nice clear picture of which hose i need to undo and fill with antifreeze?? Also where is the thermostat?

                  I read something about unscrewing the knock sensor too...

                  This is my first boat.. I am mechanically inclined enough to do all of this I just don't know the specifics of my boat.. hence im looking for photo's

                  Thanks for your replies.. I appreciate them


                  My motor is an Indmar, not sure what yours is? Your boat is probably carbed and does not have a knock sensor like mine.

                  Thermostat is on top and personally would not remove it. Drain all water and let the impeller suck the RV through the motor.
                  -Matt

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
                    Thermostat housing gaskets can be made from bulk gasket material. Buy a sheet and it will last quite a while and be cheaper than $2 per gasket.
                    Got it, thanks.
                    -Matt

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So that is the thermostat...the triangular shape box on top where all of the hoses converge? Good to know. So some of you out there open that up and pour your antifreeze in there?

                      I have a fake lake that I use to suck up the antifreeze. I don't always run the engine with water first to heat it up though (in part, so I don't scald my hands when I'm draining everything). When I'm sucking antifreeze into the engine I usually see my temp get up into the 200s. Is that sufficient enough to get the engine to open up to the antifreeze? Just curious as I've been doing this for years and have never had an issue.

                      Originally posted by bochnak View Post


                      My motor is an Indmar, not sure what yours is? Your boat is probably carbed and does not have a knock sensor like mine.

                      Thermostat is on top and personally would not remove it. Drain all water and let the impeller suck the RV through the motor.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by bochnak View Post
                        Where are you getting it for $2? Triangle shape with 2 holes?
                        No I pull the two large bolts, entire thermostat housing. Regular chevy vortec thermostat gasket

                        Skidim has it for $2.95.
                        http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0121
                        Bailey
                        '02 X-9
                        Lake Blue Ridge

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by prostar205er View Post
                          So that is the thermostat...the triangular shape box on top where all of the hoses converge? Good to know. So some of you out there open that up and pour your antifreeze in there?

                          I have a fake lake that I use to suck up the antifreeze. I don't always run the engine with water first to heat it up though (in part, so I don't scald my hands when I'm draining everything). When I'm sucking antifreeze into the engine I usually see my temp get up into the 200s. Is that sufficient enough to get the engine to open up to the antifreeze? Just curious as I've been doing this for years and have never had an issue.
                          I did it with cold engine and RV distributed throughout. If you look at the t-stat setup, there is a 5/8" bypass hole.
                          -Matt

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by bochnak View Post
                            I did it with cold engine and RV distributed throughout. If you look at the t-stat setup, there is a 5/8" bypass hole.
                            Where is that (t-stat setup)? I've been doing my own maintenance for years and have never opened the t-stat. Would I see this if I opened up the triangle where the four hoses converge?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by prostar205er View Post
                              Where is that (t-stat setup)? I've been doing my own maintenance for years and have never opened the t-stat. Would I see this if I opened up the triangle where the four hoses converge?

                              http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=98-5006

                              On mine it is the smaller hole in this gasket.
                              -Matt

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