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  • Folding Tongue Stuck

    I was backing my "new" boat into the boat house just enough to fold the tongue on the trailer and have a little extra space behind the boat. When I went to pull the pin, apparently it was rusted in place as it has obviously not been used in a while, if ever. I tried to break it loose with a hammer and it didn't budge. I tried to slip a pair of pliers in the top ring to twist it loose and the ring broke. I sprayed it with WD-40 and let it sit for a little bit then tried to knock it loose with a 3lb sledge with no luck. I also tried to remove the bolt on the other side but had the same problem with it. Has anyone else had this problem? I am open to suggestions. Thankfully it fits in the boat house without having to fold it, but I am using nearly every inch.

  • #2
    Can you tell where it's binding? I have to push down on my tongue to pop mine out.

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    • #3
      Spray it down with some PB Blaster and let it sit overnight and see if that helps break her loose. I always swing mine away even though I don't necessarily have to just to keep it from locking up.

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      • #4
        Agree with the PB Blaster suggestion.

        The pin in my trailer fits very tight - close clearances between the pin and the holes. I keep a light coating of oil on the pin and remove mine frequently. I put a padlock though the pin holes when I leave the boat as another roadblock to theft in my security plan.

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        • #5
          I did think about the PB Blaster, but I just didn't have any on me. I didn't try to push down on the tongue or anything, but maybe with the combination of the two, it will break loose. It will be a couple weeks before I get to work on it again, so I will see what I can figure out. Thanks.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by JMLVMI View Post
            Can you tell where it's binding? I have to push down on my tongue to pop mine out.
            TMI!
            What does the fox say?

            Ring-ding-ding-ding-dingeringeding...

            You know they all have a little string hanging out, but it's not a tampon, it's a price tag...

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            • #7
              Well, I tried the PB Blaster and let it sit for three nights, beating it with a sledge every morning and then applying more PB Blaster, but this pin did not budge. The only other solution I can really think of is to break out the torch, which would ruin the paint and I would rather not do that if I don't have to. I did also try to twisting the pin with some vice grips, to no avail. Taking suggestions.

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              • #8
                Post up a picture... anything bent by chance or out of alignment? I am sure you did this a view may help... IMO
                sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                • #9
                  I thought that too Mike and looked at it, but it didn't appear to be bent. I will get a picture tomorrow evening as I am out of town now.

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                  • #10
                    I know from experience that draw bar pins can get pretty rusty and take quite a bit of time to free up. I would try to hit it with the PB Blaster 2-3 times a day and be sure to rap on the pin a few times after spraying as this will assist getting the penetrating oil where it needs to be.
                    - Peter
                    TANDEM AXLE PACKAGE - $950 DELIVERED WHEEL IMAGE
                    5 14X5.5 T06 WHEELS W/5 ST215/75R14 KENDA LOADSTAR RADIALS SS CENTER CAPS, LUGS, MOUNTED, BALANCED & READY TO INSTALL

                    PM or email me for tire, wheel or package pricing.
                    CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
                    LED lights, Chrome & Powder Coated Lugs
                    2 LED 6" BRAKE LIGHTS DELIVERED $25

                    tiresplease@gmail.com

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                    • #11
                      I forgot to add that I also left a bottle jack with pressure on the pin last week. Apparently it did not help either. Is there a stainless pin that is available so this doesn't happen again? Granted I will be foldin it every time so it shouldn't happen but jic.

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                      • #12
                        Good idea with the jack.
                        - Peter
                        TANDEM AXLE PACKAGE - $950 DELIVERED WHEEL IMAGE
                        5 14X5.5 T06 WHEELS W/5 ST215/75R14 KENDA LOADSTAR RADIALS SS CENTER CAPS, LUGS, MOUNTED, BALANCED & READY TO INSTALL

                        PM or email me for tire, wheel or package pricing.
                        CARBURETOR REBUILDING - $125 + PARTS
                        LED lights, Chrome & Powder Coated Lugs
                        2 LED 6" BRAKE LIGHTS DELIVERED $25

                        tiresplease@gmail.com

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by CC2MC View Post
                          Well, I tried the PB Blaster and let it sit for three nights, beating it with a sledge every morning and then applying more PB Blaster, but this pin did not budge. The only other solution I can really think of is to break out the torch, which would ruin the paint and I would rather not do that if I don't have to. I did also try to twisting the pin with some vice grips, to no avail. Taking suggestions.
                          Use an air hammer with a blunt nose bit and drive the pin up and out from the bottom. Wear old clothes and eye protection since all that penetrating spray you've been using will start flyin'.

                          On the bolt...
                          When I replaced my actuator from the "Reliable" to the UFP, I tried everything (PB Blaster for weeks, long breaker bar, 1/2 impact, 3/4" impact) all to no avail. I was going to use the old heat and beat method but I figured since the bolt runs through a sleeve, it would be somewhat insulated and wouldn't heat up enough to work anyway. It may have worked, but I didn't try.

                          I ended up taking it to my friend at his spring shop. He used a 1" impact and it took several seconds before it started turning. I smacked on it from the bottom as he continued with the impact and it walked out. The new bolt got a really nice coat of anti-seize before it went back together.

                          Hope this helps,
                          Jeff

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                          • #14
                            Since the T handle broke off maybe weld on a nut and use that to twist will beating, cussing, etc....

                            Also by pounding on it are you mushrooming it out any and adding to the problem?

                            I can tell you that mine is very snug, as i am sure everyone is, and I keep anti seize on it. I tried just penetrating oil but it still seemed to lock up a bit after a couple weeks of sitting.

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                            • #15
                              Oops... I didn't catch that it was the type with a ring on the top. If it's just a straight shaft now, drive it down from the top... with the air hammer. Much easier than laying on your back.

                              Mine was a different type pin. It wasn't stuck, thankfully. Would have had to drive it up from the bottom, or cut the top off.
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by JDC; 09-05-2013, 09:40 PM.
                              Jeff

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