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Old 08-10-2019, 05:54 PM
RxMC RxMC is offline
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Boat: 1990 ProStar 190
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trying to identify wires on ignition switch

1990 Prostar 190

Just seems like a few extra connections here. And doesn't look like the switch that would have came in the boat new. Were they 4 position?
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Old 08-10-2019, 05:57 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RxMC View Post
1990 Prostar 190

Just seems like a few extra connections here. And doesn't look like the switch that would have came in the boat new. Were they 4 position?
Yes...4-post switches arrived on the scene when accessories (mainly a head unit for tunes) came onto the scene.

You could have an aftermarket switch but regardless, you should use a 4-poster. From the rear, that appears to be OEM.

That is not a lot of wires for an ignition switch. Looks fairly typical from all I have seen; although I cannot determine what the wires are...but I see purple, etc. I can probably give you a rundown on the colors and position with a little more info about each post.

Accessory is just that
Start is to signal the solenoid to engage the starter
Run is for run and any required hot leads (purple) for the engine...choke, coil, electronic ignition, etc...
Off is off.

A photo of the key would allow for further evidence of OEM or AM.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 08-10-2019 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 08-10-2019, 07:49 PM
RxMC RxMC is offline
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Thank you.

Obviously I need the 4 post and things look okay here. We just tested everything out and it looks like the kill switch is the culprit and the reason the boat won't start.

So I'll put the ignition switch back in as-is.
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Old 08-10-2019, 07:58 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by RxMC View Post
Thank you.

Obviously I need the 4 post and things look okay here. We just tested everything out and it looks like the kill switch is the culprit and the reason the boat won't start.

So I'll put the ignition switch back in as-is.
Typically the kill switch will either allow or deny the engine to even turn over (or run). It is either good or bad. If there is a need to use the kill, it kills the engine (safety). You seem to have a handle on the issue so far be it for me to make an incorrect assumption.

Same with the neutral safety switch... it either is good (closed circuit) or is bad and will not allow the engine to do anything....not even turn over (safety from starting in gear).
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:31 PM
RxMC RxMC is offline
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At Start position the motor would turn over and run as long as you held it there. Would not run in the Run position. I jumped the kill switch wires and got 6 volts at coil. No voltage with kill switch installed, lanyard in or out, didn't matter.
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Old 08-11-2019, 07:01 AM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by RxMC View Post
At Start position the motor would turn over and run as long as you held it there. Would not run in the Run position. I jumped the kill switch wires and got 6 volts at coil. No voltage with kill switch installed, lanyard in or out, didn't matter.
A bad kill would not have allowed the engine to even turn over. I'm thinking a new ignition switch would be a good preventative maintenance measure and also allow for the kill safety feature.

$0.02

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Last edited by waterlogged882; 08-11-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 08-11-2019, 08:40 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Kill switch should still let it turn over. It just stops juice to the coil.
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:02 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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When the plunger on my kill switch is engaged, it's a dead circuit. Nothing. Engine will not budge.

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Old 08-11-2019, 02:05 PM
RxMC RxMC is offline
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That's interesting. I think my manual specifically says Nuetral Safety is no crank, Killswitch Lanyard is crank but no ignition.
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:41 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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If that is what works for you (as previously stated) that's what I'd go with. Mine could be wired differently (I am not the first owner) for all I know. Now I have to dig into it and see what is what on my machine.
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