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  #21  
Old 08-16-2020, 12:35 PM
jpwhit jpwhit is offline
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Boat: Four Winns RX 5.7L 1996(sold), Nautique 200 OB 2011(sold), Nautique 200 OB 2012 5.7L, Mastercraft X25 2014 6.2L, Mastercraft ProStar 2019 5.7L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
No, that’s exactly the info I was looking for! Very helpful. Thank you!!
One other question I’ve been pondering: Would it matter whether I set it up to use the negative signal wire from the PDM to activate the coil as opposed to the positive (as I currently have it drawn up)? I believe either should work - so long as the rest of the circuit on the other side of the coil is set up accordingly. Any advantage/disadvantage to one way over the other?
Either way will work fine, but the way you have it would be the more normal convention, so I would tend to do it the way you have it. The driver built into the PDM is an H-Bridge and here's a schematic.

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  #22  
Old 08-17-2020, 11:41 AM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 2015 X30, 6.2L
Location: Utah
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I think we’ve got the electrical figured out. This started out as a quest to simply swap Puppies for Kings. It has evolved into adding two pumps using relays due to the electrical constraints of the PDM. I’ve decided to add two Puppies instead of Kings in order to minimize the load I’ll be placing on the systems - both electrical and plumbing systems. Running five Puppies should keep the total electrical demand of the ballast system below 60 amps (36A through the PDM feeding the 3 original pumps and 24A direct from the battery feeding the 2 additional pumps). I wouldn’t benefit from the increased flow potential of the Kings anyway due to the plumbing constraints. For the plumbing I’m going to add an OEM 1” double thru-hull inlet as well as a second 1” line between the tanks and bags. Hopefully this will allow enough extra water flow to fully benefit from the additional 11 GPM potential of the additional Puppy. If it works I should be able to reduce my fill times by nearly half - to around 6 minutes.
Since I’m going with Puppies I should be able to use 20A relays and fuses/breakers. Once I get those selected I’ll begin ordering more parts. The OEM thru-hull is already ordered as well as some 5” square aluminum tubing to mount the additional pumps on top of the existing pumps.
Please feel free to throw out ideas/suggestions or poke holes in my plan.

Last edited by Skyskiguy; 08-17-2020 at 11:52 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2020, 01:01 PM
bcd bcd is offline
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I think it's a pretty good plan.

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  #24  
Old 08-21-2020, 08:50 AM
ryancassidy ryancassidy is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
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Just following this.. very interesting idea. I like where you are going with it!
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  #25  
Old 09-06-2020, 12:58 AM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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Electrical and plumbing bench tests complete. Installation in the boat complete. Lake test complete. No PDM faults. It works as planned! Fill time went from almost 12 minutes to just over 6 minutes.
Factory hard tanks + Wake Makers 820 piggyback bag in each trunk + 5 Ballast Puppies. 2600 lbs - fill time: 6:15, empty time: 6:30.

Last edited by Skyskiguy; 09-06-2020 at 01:26 AM.
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  #26  
Old 09-14-2020, 10:01 AM
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dbrayton1 dbrayton1 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Boat: 2016 MasterCraft X23, 2018 MasterCraft XT22, 2016 Nautique G23, 2015 Malibu 23 LSV
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Good thread. I have a 2016 X23 and am considering several options to remedy repeated ballast controller issues. Specifically, they just randomly turn the pumps off. Even without throwing a code.

For example - set ballasts to 100% all around, hit fill all, then the center stops filling around 30% every time. Have to restart the pumps by sliding finger up on display. Then turns off again, and again, etc.. Happens when draining too. Probably the most annoying because I am used to hitting "go home/back to dock" and just taking off. Then after many minutes I realize ALL the pumps stopped and I'm still almost full.

My dealer refuses to put any effort into fixing it. Anyone else have this?

So for solutions (reliability, not speed) I was thinking of replacing the six puppies with 3 kings. Just putting y's on the in/out to pull from both 1" through hull fittings into the pump, then y out into the two tank inlets. And for the current, just combining the existing wire in parallel to the pumps. This gives me less maintenance in terms of impellers and less overall current draw so hoping the controller won't trip up as often. Any thoughts on that? Plan B is buy 6 new puppies and pray the system starts working properly again. Plan C is bypassing the controller. If I get really annoyed I may just write new software for my GSA controller to manage ballast pumps given it has three high-current H bridges in it. Any thoughts?
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  #27  
Old 09-14-2020, 04:22 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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Have you tried a software update? Dealer should at least be willing to do that.
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  #28  
Old 09-15-2020, 08:31 AM
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dbrayton1 dbrayton1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
Have you tried a software update? Dealer should at least be willing to do that.

Thanks, yes, they replaced the Murphy screen and made sure it was the latest software. Still throwing codes and stopping the pumps. Mostly the center pair but happens on all at least once during a fill or drain cycle. Fresh impellers and o-rings all around as well.

They claim to have taken it out and tested. But literally the first fill after I hauled it 45 miles to my slip it failed. :-(


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