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  #21  
Old 07-25-2019, 04:03 PM
Johnnyalki Johnnyalki is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Boat: 1992 prostar 205
Location: Northwest
Posts: 27
Since I can’t do a compression test without a working starter, I’m planning on ordering this one:
https://www.marinepartssource.com/fo...ter-arco-70200
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2019, 04:27 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyalki View Post
Since I canít do a compression test without a working starter, Iím planning on ordering this one:
https://www.marinepartssource.com/fo...ter-arco-70200
That will work.

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  #23  
Old 07-26-2019, 09:30 PM
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jayR jayR is offline
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Boat: 1988 prostar 190
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With the freeze plugs pushed out and that much water in the oil wouldn't most assume a cracked block?
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2019, 12:50 PM
Johnnyalki Johnnyalki is offline
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Boat: 1992 prostar 205
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A cracked block would be my worst fear. The new starter will be here on Thursday. I should have compression test numbers over the weekend.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2019, 05:39 PM
Johnnyalki Johnnyalki is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Boat: 1992 prostar 205
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Ha, I have soooo much to learn. I was going through the checklist getting ready for the compression test and it hit me that, unlike cars, the intake and exhaust manifolds need to be hooked up. Thus, i have more work to do before I can do the compression test. Doh!
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2019, 06:39 PM
Marley Marley is offline
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Boat: Master Craft, Stars & Stripes, 1983, PCM 351, Power Slot
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Hey Johnnyalki, newbie here as well.
I'm a 90/10 auto/marine pseudo mechanic and I like your spirit. I've a project myself on another thread, waiting for parts, and saw your entry. Nice one.
Based on what little you've said I don't like the popped freeze plugs and oil sitting in block for years scenario. You've got yourself well on the way to becoming a bonnified pseudo mechanic just like me. First, if you'd like, you can find out alot of what you need to know by spinning it without the manifolds. Remove the plugs at first and turn it over 4 revolutions. Apply pressure gauge with high marker. Turn her over at lease 4 revolutions. Do all eight and report let us know. If one cylinder look way off from the others, get some fogging oil and spray it in for a 2 - 3 count and try again. If they are all starting at or above 100, you're doing well. Mainly you've got to worry about broken rings at this point so it would be good to get some fogging oil and rotate by wrench for awhile.
Frankly, you are just about to the core of your need. Reduce the engine to the block in the discovery mode. Basically, you want to end up with your main 5 or 6 parts; Block, Crank, Heads, Cam. The rest can be R & R'd. So have fun and discover what that is. Get the block, crank, heads, at least, to a rebuild shop and have them tanked, clean, dye and pen for cracks, are heads bowed, valve guides in repairable shape, etc. If all good get the block align-bored, the new cam and bearing set, they'll install the new pistons, fit and check crack bearings and run-out. They'll rebuild your heads with new seats and valves if necessary otherwise, clean and grind the old ones. You'll be given the short block back in one piece, mount the heads, and the external components, your new flywheel, you've a clean and inspected, near new engine.
If you don't like that, you can also trade in your parts for a short block, w/o heads, or a long block, w/ heads, pre built.
Right, just that easy.
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