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  #171  
Old 01-13-2020, 11:17 PM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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Boat: 2001 X-star 5.7L LTR, 2000 Prostar 190 5.7L LTR, both dark green
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1. Fuel sender: you don't need to run additional wires, but you will need to rewire what is back there. The boat harness will have purple, pink, and black. The sender harness will have red, white, and black. To hook it up to the new 2 wire sender, hook up the pink wire to the to the sending wire (black on WEMA units), and black to the grounding wire (pink on the WEMA units). You can do whatever you want with the purple wire, most likely tape it off. It is an ignition switched 12v source, so you can use it to power something.

2. It depends. Your year might be early enough that you don't need it, as there were several generations of the MMDC with some differences. Easiest way is to check your MMDC harness (the big plug) and see if you have tan, gray, light blue, and pink wires. If you do, you have everything needed to make the Faria gauges work. If not, you will need to do some extra wiring.
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  #172  
Old 01-29-2020, 12:05 PM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
Location: Southeast
Posts: 69
Whew, Summer is coming!
I finally jumped in and started this conversion on my 2002 from MDC to Faria. As someoneo has already stated earlier, 2002 may have been an odd year with regard to electronics. I have an MMDC/Borg-Warner black box with regular gauges; non-working, of course. My worst fear happened; i began the project and did not finish. It may be a couple weeks before i can get back on it, so there may be some re-learning before i can again move forward.
It seems as if i have many more wires than some do, and that is confusing. I think my next course is to begin cutting apart harnesses to trace back, or else i might end up with such a complex mess that nothing works. I have cut all yellows, and run new leads and wired most gauges, but i have no current source of power and ground. New Centroid sender is on the way, and i have new water temp sender, but as of now still have not managed to get the plug out of the block to install. Quite frustrating, and fear i might strip the 3/8" allen, which would be a real mess. Here are some things i need a little advice on:
1) I cut the small gauge pink going into the 24 pin MMDC plug to get fuel and oil signals. When i look at fuel sender, it is a larger wire. I think i see this bundle of pink/purple/black coming up through the floor and going ? Should i have cut it there, or should i trace it forward to see where it goes? It appears to go in the harness to the back of the rocker switch panel, and i can not understand why.
2) The #6 pin on the 24 plug is Engine ECM. Where do i now send this wire?
3) I 11 and 12 are fused; one power and one accessory. Are these good sources for switched power and/or constant power? I have batteries out right now so have not tested.
4) 19 is alarm control. What is it, and where should i now send it?
5) 23 is a paddle wheel input. Boat has PP, so i need to see where it is going. What to do with it, if i can find its source and destination? PP does show speed.
6) I recall seeing a wire labelled SPDO, but don't recall where. Post 143 suggests this may be a source for 12V switched. Any thoughts, and what does SPDO mean?
7) My main harness at kick panel ground wire had heated at some point and melted the harness. What would cause it to do that? I have temporarily removed and connected ends with split bolt, but will do better. BTW, i did run a new ground from engine/battery- to test things before i embarked on this project. No luck
8) There is a smaller harness coming up through floor from the bilge that contains green, purple, pink, tan(auto), black (ground), and brown (pump). I assume this is leads going to bilge pumps and blower?
9) I have a large bundle of wires going from main gauge harness into the gauge cavity and appears to go to the rocker switch panel. I have not cut tape and flex from it to see what it is. Can anyone confirm this is maybe an extension of MMDC "stuff", and will be removed? It is shown in pic below. My concern is the amount of space it occupies. I was born with my Mom's small hands, and i can't for the life of me figure out how i will get more than 2 or 3 of the wing nuts back on. My hands are already so cut up from removing, but i hate the thought of reinstallation. Any thoughts as to where these wires go, before i cut open and begin to trace?

Basically, this is a real challenge. I want to do it right, and am really struggling with all these wires. All feedback is very helpful and much appreciated.

David in SC
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  #173  
Old 02-08-2020, 07:55 PM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
Location: Southeast
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Good day from flooded upstate SC!
I am happy to have gotten to spend a few hours on my project today; albeit it was a chilly 34 degrees. I set out to finally remove the brass plug in the manifold to install an analog temp sender. I have been soaking it in PB for 2+ weeks, and have already bent my 12" cheater bar. Had already tried heat - even though it was directly under the fuel rail; still no luck.
Today i decided i would remove the fuel rail cover and try it with a 3/8" impact socket. Well, that stripped it out completely. BOO. So, i also had a 10mm allen socket. I chiseled a bit and got it in, and it stripped too. Shucks.
Well, i got out the drill and the EZ out. No luck there either. In the end, i ended up "splitting" the plug with a dremel, while only doing minimal damage in one small thread spot. I still spent over an hour chiseling it out even after it was split. Wow, how frustrating.
But, i got the new gauge in, and all is well. I aim to get back on the gauge install tomorrow, as my new fuel sender has arrived, and the sun will be out and up to 50 degrees. Nice!
I could still use any guidance you all may have about my wiring situation. I hate to get this thing all wired up with new gauges, and then it not run. Previous post describes some of the sources of my confusion.

Hope everyone has a nice evening......Summer is coming!
David in SC
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  #174  
Old 02-09-2020, 07:51 PM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
Location: Southeast
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Hello All! I finally got back to the gauges today for a few good hours. I went back and checked all my connections, shrunk all my heatshrink, and then started looking for a source for power and ground. This system is so complex on my 2002; very intimidating to me. In the end, i took the red-black wire from the MMDC in plug and used that to give switched power. I believe it is #11 on the diagram, and i verified 12V switched using a jumpstarter. I then took the black/yellow from the MMDC out harness and ran that direct to the ground bar under the dash. There was plenty of length, so i thought this would be a good reliable ground. I now have power to all gauges, and all seem to do what they should, without cranking to verify. My Centroid fuel sender reads, and appears to read accurately; thank you Joel and Mary.
The frustrating part now is that i have not actually removed any wires or cleaned anything up. I have a total mess, and i have to fix this. I suppose the right way is to start cutting loose harnesses and tracing wires, but that is another day; may be a couple weeks before i get to work on it again.
Couple questions about my install:
1) Should power to the gauges be fuse-protected? If yes, what amps?
2) I am not sure if i have communication to the ECM, and if i even should. Is this necessary, and what would be a typical wire routing.......from where, through where, etc?

If anyone has any thoughts, suggestions, or comments about how i did this, please chime in. I am not really happy about the mess i have, but i am happy that all gauges appear to come to life; more than i got with the MMDC setup.

Thanks to all.
David in SC
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  #175  
Old 02-10-2020, 07:51 AM
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lakedrum03 lakedrum03 is offline
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Location: Ohio
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This is awesome! Great work.

The more fuses the better in my opinion. None of these should take a ton of power. i would start with a ten and if it pops, then move up.
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  #176  
Old 02-23-2020, 08:18 PM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
Location: Southeast
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Good evening Team!
I felt a little better today when i verified my boat will still crank with my new Faria conversion, but i have a question for the experts.......When i turn my key to auxiliary to play the radio while in the driveway, my gauges are getting power. Sort of odd, it appears they may not be getting full power, as the fuel gauge barely moves, but all gauges show some activity. I know the fuel gauge reads about where it should when i turn key to ON position, so it strikes me odd that it only moves just a little when key is turned to auxiliary.
I suppose i need to source gauge power from a different source.........maybe? Or, is there another workaround for this? Does it really matter that my gauges are powered up when key is in auxiliary?

Thank you for your continued help,
David in SC
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  #177  
Old 02-23-2020, 11:43 PM
Tsumi Tsumi is offline
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That tells me you have a partial short somewhere, probably in your ignition switch.

Check the voltage they are getting when in the accessory position.
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  #178  
Old 02-24-2020, 12:18 PM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
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Thank you Tsumi - this makes perfect sense. Now i know where to go looking and probing.......next time i get near the boat in 2 weeks.

Have a nice day,
David in SC
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  #179  
Old 02-24-2020, 05:39 PM
markm88 markm88 is offline
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Join Date: May 2018
Boat: 2002 Mastercraft X-10
Location: Midwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moukie View Post
Good evening Team!
I felt a little better today when i verified my boat will still crank with my new Faria conversion, but i have a question for the experts.......When i turn my key to auxiliary to play the radio while in the driveway, my gauges are getting power. Sort of odd, it appears they may not be getting full power, as the fuel gauge barely moves, but all gauges show some activity. I know the fuel gauge reads about where it should when i turn key to ON position, so it strikes me odd that it only moves just a little when key is turned to auxiliary.
I suppose i need to source gauge power from a different source.........maybe? Or, is there another workaround for this? Does it really matter that my gauges are powered up when key is in auxiliary?

Thank you for your continued help,
David in SC
I converted my 02 x-10 last year so my memory is a bit fuzzy (also trying to forget all the frustrations ) I had the same issue and the problem was the wire you are tapping into for switched power wont carry enough load for the gauges...you will need to tap into another switched power....I can't remember what I used offhand but i believe it was maybe from the perfect pass harness.
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  #180  
Old 02-25-2020, 05:01 AM
Moukie Moukie is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Boat: Mastercraft Maristar, 2002, ?
Location: Southeast
Posts: 69
Thank you Markm88. Nice to know someone else with a 2002 shared the same pain; i have so many wires to deal with. True, maybe i tapped the wrong wire, and it is a very small - maybe 18 gauge wire. I will put a meter on it and work the key several ways to see what happens. I will also be searching for switched power that does not come on in the accessory position, as i assume it is not desirable to have gauges powered while parked listening to the radio.

All advice is appreciated.

Have a nice day,
David in SC
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