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  #11  
Old 10-15-2020, 12:24 PM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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Boat: '85 Stars & Stripes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
I just ask because of the engine servo that’s in a PCV pipe bomb. As a customer that could use refinement.
Honestly, when I opened the package without ever knowing about the PVC pipe bomb, my first thought was 'man what the hell did I just get myself into...'. But I'm running it and it works. If a guy had access to some metal bending equipment, maybe a 3d printer, or other means, this could be a much much better setup. This is something I've been thinking about designing for future use.

Also a different location could be used to hide the PVC better. For me, quick access coupled with a desirable bend radius on the servo cable led me to its current position. Although I do my best, my 35 year old engine is very very far from some of the pristine examples you see on this forum, the addition of the servo tube doesn't bother me as much as it would someone else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lakedrum03 View Post
It would look cool to make one from some stainless tube, weld some caps on it and machine a nice surface.

Anyone know what size (OD and ID) that pipe is?
I think one thing to note is that it does not have to be a round tube. Nor do I fully understand if the supplied servo needs to be enclosed at all, or the level of protection required for NVH. Right now my tube vibrates. I don't know if this is going to give me issues down the road, I would certainly like a more robust mounting solution.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2020, 02:12 PM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft, 280 SST, 2005, Twin 375 Crusader
Location: Michigan
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*Enclosure protects servo from moisture, Not needed, but prevents early failures.

* vibration shouldn't be much of an issue on the servo but you can mount it anywhere at long as there are no tight bends that stop the movement of the cable so using a C- type bracket to mount to the fiberglass(or anything else) would work as well if you have the space/length

* its PVC because it's cheap, and yes it is the Pipe Bomb Servo Solution (PBSS) that happens to be unofficially 99% waterproof.

* "It would look cool to make one from some stainless tube, weld some caps on it and machine a nice surface." - this would improve the pipe bomb realism to it for those that want it...

* I'll exit now as I don't want it to feel like I'm stalking the review thread.
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2020, 03:09 PM
Bartnich Bartnich is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Boat: 1995 Prostar 205 5.7L
Location: Mountain West
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashCourse316 View Post
*Enclosure protects servo from moisture, Not needed, but prevents early failures.

* vibration shouldn't be much of an issue on the servo but you can mount it anywhere at long as there are no tight bends that stop the movement of the cable so using a C- type bracket to mount to the fiberglass(or anything else) would work as well if you have the space/length

* its PVC because it's cheap, and yes it is the Pipe Bomb Servo Solution (PBSS) that happens to be unofficially 99% waterproof.

* "It would look cool to make one from some stainless tube, weld some caps on it and machine a nice surface." - this would improve the pipe bomb realism to it for those that want it...

* I'll exit now as I don't want it to feel like I'm stalking the review thread.
Sam is the guy building these. He's a good guy.
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2020, 07:43 PM
Mark rsa2au's Avatar
Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Boat: 99 ProStar 205 LTR330
Location: Australia
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WhooHoo my kit was shipped yesterday, cant wait for it to arrive and install it.

I am more of a function over form person so as long as it works as intended I am not sure I care what the servo looks like as I am unlikley to even see it for 99% of my boating time. If needed I can always paint the pipe black so it blends in and somewhat satisfies my low grade MCOCD.

The face plate is a different thing as I will stare at it for hours while on the water so I waited for the newer faceplates without the "Marrage Saver" humour. My Wife and Daughters are all really good drivers and as I depend on them to drive for me, I would prefer for them not to see this assumption on the dash ( Happy wife - happy Life / Happy Driver - Happy Skier...)

I will update this thread with my view once I have it installed and running.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2020, 04:05 PM
CrashCourse316 CrashCourse316 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
WhooHoo my kit was shipped yesterday, cant wait for it to arrive and install it.

I am more of a function over form person so as long as it works as intended I am not sure I care what the servo looks like as I am unlikley to even see it for 99% of my boating time. If needed I can always paint the pipe black so it blends in and somewhat satisfies my low grade MCOCD.

The face plate is a different thing as I will stare at it for hours while on the water so I waited for the newer faceplates without the "Marrage Saver" humour. My Wife and Daughters are all really good drivers and as I depend on them to drive for me, I would prefer for them not to see this assumption on the dash ( Happy wife - happy Life / Happy Driver - Happy Skier...)

I will update this thread with my view once I have it installed and running.

Hit me with a PM if you have any tuning issues out of the gate. It's been tough with a few people getting the tuning dialed in.
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  #16  
Old 10-18-2020, 06:08 PM
Mark rsa2au's Avatar
Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashCourse316 View Post
Hit me with a PM if you have any tuning issues out of the gate. It's been tough with a few people getting the tuning dialed in.

Thanks, will do!!

Sadly due to Covid-19 lockdowns being extended it looks like our ski season might not start in November as planned...


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  #17  
Old 11-10-2020, 06:38 PM
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Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Boat: 99 ProStar 205 LTR330
Location: Australia
Posts: 363
Hi Guys

Just completed my SteadyPass install and thought I would offer my thoughts.

Unit arrived in a box with everything included, screws, nuts, heat shrink, connectors, etc. The only additional spares I needed were specifically for my set up - 99 Prostar 205 with LTR330, and a connector block they already warned me about due to supply issues. Presentation of the kit in the box was below expectations but the gauge was well wrapped in bubble wrap and it all survived the trip Downunder perfectly.

Gauge and electrical install was a 30 min job, running the cable to the servo at the motor was simple enough but for added protection I used a spiral plastic cable sleeve. I left the GPS receiver under the dash and it works perfectly - double sided table to hold it steady.

As predicted the hardest part was connecting the Bowden cable to the throttle cable at the throttle body. There is heaps of adjustment with the various brackets and nuts, but my set up was either really tricky or I was missing something but I got there in the end. I suspect I would have had similar issues with any other cable operated speed control set up. Setting up the Servo was easy enough to get the tension right.

Tested the unit in the lake and it all works. Temps all good, revs are accurate, time is GPS accurate. Speed is also accurate to the GPS speedo on the dash and my phone.

The next step is to dial in the settings as my boat seems to have more power than the current settings allow for, and speed corrections are very harsh. This can be set in the unit and they have already sent me new parameters to change to which should soften the reaction. Other than this Speed hold was good at all speeds except slalom at 36mph which we could not test due to the above as it was too hard to ski with, but I expect once the new settings are in this will improve as it held within 0.3 - 0.5mph of the set speed even with the over correction.

On an interesting note, I wired the unit to the ignition so it turns on with all the other gauges. The start up is quick and no issue BUT there is a reminder to check the bilge plug. This is good for the first time but becomes redundant after 4 hours on the water. Final funny is that I wanted the faceplate without “Marriage Saver” on the front, but it still shows up every ignition start on the screen.



So far I am satisfied this will do what I want once set up correctly for my boat.

Cheers
Mark


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  #18  
Old 11-11-2020, 01:57 PM
Huckelfin Huckelfin is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Boat: '85 Stars & Stripes
Location: Midwest
Posts: 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark rsa2au View Post
Hi Guys

Just completed my SteadyPass install and thought I would offer my thoughts.

Unit arrived in a box with everything included, screws, nuts, heat shrink, connectors, etc. The only additional spares I needed were specifically for my set up - 99 Prostar 205 with LTR330, and a connector block they already warned me about due to supply issues. Presentation of the kit in the box was below expectations but the gauge was well wrapped in bubble wrap and it all survived the trip Downunder perfectly.

Gauge and electrical install was a 30 min job, running the cable to the servo at the motor was simple enough but for added protection I used a spiral plastic cable sleeve. I left the GPS receiver under the dash and it works perfectly - double sided table to hold it steady.

As predicted the hardest part was connecting the Bowden cable to the throttle cable at the throttle body. There is heaps of adjustment with the various brackets and nuts, but my set up was either really tricky or I was missing something but I got there in the end. I suspect I would have had similar issues with any other cable operated speed control set up. Setting up the Servo was easy enough to get the tension right.

Tested the unit in the lake and it all works. Temps all good, revs are accurate, time is GPS accurate. Speed is also accurate to the GPS speedo on the dash and my phone.

The next step is to dial in the settings as my boat seems to have more power than the current settings allow for, and speed corrections are very harsh. This can be set in the unit and they have already sent me new parameters to change to which should soften the reaction. Other than this Speed hold was good at all speeds except slalom at 36mph which we could not test due to the above as it was too hard to ski with, but I expect once the new settings are in this will improve as it held within 0.3 - 0.5mph of the set speed even with the over correction.

On an interesting note, I wired the unit to the ignition so it turns on with all the other gauges. The start up is quick and no issue BUT there is a reminder to check the bilge plug. This is good for the first time but becomes redundant after 4 hours on the water. Final funny is that I wanted the faceplate without “Marriage Saver” on the front, but it still shows up every ignition start on the screen.



So far I am satisfied this will do what I want once set up correctly for my boat.

Cheers
Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
+1 on the marriage saver thing. My wife is good at driving! My version is early enough that the cover just says 'speed control system' but still does say the marriage saver thing on startup on the LCD.
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  #19  
Old 11-15-2020, 06:23 PM
Mark rsa2au's Avatar
Mark rsa2au Mark rsa2au is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Boat: 99 ProStar 205 LTR330
Location: Australia
Posts: 363
After updating the settings provided to me by SteadyPass I can report the unit is operating exactly as expected and I am very happy with it. Speed correction is now smoother, and it holds speed within 0.3mph most of the time - at worst 0.5mph with a heavy slalom skier.

Slalom - holds speed well, pull is slightly more forgiving than PP & ZO and slightly slower to respond. I honestly did not notice much difference at 36 compared to PP but the last time I skied with PP was 8 months ago ( Thanks COVID). Unless you are skiing the course you are unlikely to need more than this.
Wake and Kneeboarding - This is what I wanted the SteadyPass unit for and it works as expected - held speed well, corrections subtle, and made driving far less stressful. We could chuck in an inexperienced driver while we coached the kids. On our boat weight transfer if people move about will affect the speed so on manual throttle everyone needed to stay seated as much as possible - now no issues and the kids can move around.
Surfing - as above but soo much easier than trying to hold 11mph in a loaded boat that wants to either fall in a hole or fly out on the plane..
Barefooting - set to 43mph slam the throttle and keep it pointed straight while looking for logs in the water instead of the speedo.

Build Quality is not the same as PP or Hydrophase but you would have to look really close to see the glue pushing out the sides, or note the printed plastic parts never seen behind the dash. So for a third of the price of other units, it is a bargain. Time will tell how long it lasts but from what I can see it should go the distance and from a design point it looks simple to fix the only moving part, and the gauge unit is all plugin so replacing it may not even need tools ( depending on your dash.)

It does not have all the rider profiles like Hydrophase and is not as sophisticated with fast reaction times like PP or even ZO, but for social free skiing just twist the knob to your desired speed, pull up the skier/rider, and enjoy. Simple and effective. - and I like simple. For the Price and performance, it is perfect for my needs. I will update this as we go through summer here downunder and if anything changes
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