1989 MC ProStar 190 for sale Cols. OH

[bcl]

A little update. Boat Trader was a joke. 2 replies in 2 weeks to my ad, and I am pretty sure one was a scammer, tried to communicate with both and neither ever replied. On Facebook, in my ad, I said , if the ad is still visible, it is still available, yet still, I get "Is it still available?" Yes, and then never hear back. Basically it's hard to sell a purpose built boat, and I still feel mine is pretty good for the price, cause every other is more no matter what condition.

[bcl]

I just try to follow the book.

[93Prostar190]

Old wives tale after MC stopped using the aluminum fuel cells. The poly cells rarely condensate per se'.

No reason your neighbor's boat should run any differently with his procedure. That engine has not one clue as to what season of the year it is in. It either runs or it rests. I do the same thing as the neighbor.

The only thing different in the Correct Craft is that the engine runs backwards.

US $0.02

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Well fresh oil in the belly all winter long is different [emoji848]


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[waterlogged882]

Also forgot, Stabil in the tank and fill it up. Owner's manual says a full tank develops less condensation than empty or partly filled. My neighbor with the Ski Nautique Martinique does everthing different, empty the tank, change oil in spring, not fall, and use antifreeze. His.........doesn't run as well...shall we say.

Old wives tale after MC stopped using the aluminum fuel cells. The poly cells rarely condensate per se'.

No reason your neighbor's boat should run any differently with his procedure. That engine has not one clue as to what season of the year it is in. It either runs or it rests. I do the same thing as the neighbor.

The only thing different in the Correct Craft is that the engine runs backwards.

US $0.02

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[88 PS190]

John E, what are you doing that takes a half hour? Live in Florida?

LOL mine takes about 30 minutes as well but its due to preparation more than anything.

I change my oil near the end of the season but before trailering the boat. I go from the lake the the barn so my whole process happens at the boat launch. I clean the boat out at the house change its oil and treat its fuel. Occasionally if the weather is great it will get a couple of skis on that oil change but usually the seasons are turning and its just a blast up to the launch on the new oil.

Which means that all I really do from that point is drain the water, suck in antifreeze, fog the engine and spray the engine down with rust protectant.

[bcl]

Also forgot, Stabil in the tank and fill it up. Owner's manual says a full tank develops less condensation than empty or partly filled. My neighbor with the Ski Nautique Martinique does everthing different, empty the tank, change oil in spring, not fall, and use antifreeze. His.........doesn't run as well...shall we say.

[bcl]

John E, what are you doing that takes a half hour? Live in Florida?

[bturner2]

It takes me a full day but I'm waxing, washing, changing all the fluids, doing ballast tanks, taking all the gear and batteries out of the boat and all the other little things that don't get mentioned.

Sure changing the oil and putting in anti-freeze takes an hour or 2 but that's not even close to winterization for my process....

[bcl]

I also try to clean it, inside and out, put the plug in and duct tape the exhaust flaps down to keep the mice out. Couple trays of mothballs to discourage mice also. Then I put 500 pieces of equipment in and cover it up.

[d2jp]

Usually an oil and filter change to start, spray fogging oil in carb while running, then turn off, pull all spark plugs, spray fogging oil in all cylinders, give it a couple cranks. Reinstall plugs. Drain all water out of manifolds and block. I have 2 plugs on the drivers side and a petcock on the passenger rear, then the two plugs on the manifolds. I have a 3" rod magnet and I put that in the manifold hole and get any rust chunks out. I have done this for years, and there is pretty much nothing there for the last 5-10 years. Was a lot more at first. I figure if you leave these chunks in the manifold wet, it could cause problems, more rust, and having a manifold fail might kill your engine, but I am probably anal retentive. Remove battery. That's an option but if you leave it in, you still need to charge it occasionally through the winter. Disconnect and drain all hoses that might hold water. I live in Ohio, boat is in an unheated pole barn in winter, so you don't want to crack the block or anything else. If I think of anything else, I'll add

Excellent process, boat is well cared for! Like the magnet iin manifold idea. Good luck with sale, nice boat.

[bcl]

When you say "covid Price" are things higher or lower than normal? I've looked some on line and I see people wanting way more for similar boats , so I figure either the boat is perfect or they're just dreaming. Like I said you can't go up, you can always go down. I would just like someone to use the boat more than I have lately. Middle of August, only had it out twice, and no skiing or boarding.

[bcl]

Usually an oil and filter change to start, spray fogging oil in carb while running, then turn off, pull all spark plugs, spray fogging oil in all cylinders, give it a couple cranks. Reinstall plugs. Drain all water out of manifolds and block. I have 2 plugs on the drivers side and a petcock on the passenger rear, then the two plugs on the manifolds. I have a 3" rod magnet and I put that in the manifold hole and get any rust chunks out. I have done this for years, and there is pretty much nothing there for the last 5-10 years. Was a lot more at first. I figure if you leave these chunks in the manifold wet, it could cause problems, more rust, and having a manifold fail might kill your engine, but I am probably anal retentive. Remove battery. That's an option but if you leave it in, you still need to charge it occasionally through the winter. Disconnect and drain all hoses that might hold water. I live in Ohio, boat is in an unheated pole barn in winter, so you don't want to crack the block or anything else. If I think of anything else, I'll add

[JohnE]

Nice boat, decent covid times price. What are you doing to winterize that takes a few hours? I'm not all that mechanical, and it'd take a half hour or so on all my direct drives over the years.

[bcl]

Weird, I get the pics to post but no text? Usually the other way around.

[bcl]

I have owned it for 20+ years, and am the 3rd owner. It has 1062 hours and I believe that to be correct. I can explain that, if you are interested. Power Slot transmission. Includes MC trailer, cover, safety eq. such as life jackets, fire extinguisher, spotlight, spare tire, extra 4 blade prop, dock lines, bumpers, some extra maintenance parts (fuel filters, impeller, garden hose attachment to run it on the trailer). Decent stereo will play from a flash drive. I have many other things not included, barefoot boom, tall pole, fat sacks, wakeboards, skis, wetsuits etc. Has been a great boat, just getting older and don't use it enough, none of my friends want to ski or even tube anymore. The drivers and passenger seat bottoms were replaced about 20 years ago and are starting to show some age, but very usable, not urgent. Engine cover has a blemish above the alternator that has been there since I bought it, I have used vinyl patch, maybe a pro could do better. I repaired it but not looking great now, it's about a square inch or less. A few scratches on the hull, too, not bad for 32 years. Starting at $10,000 can't go up but can always go down. Might consider trades for a camper or pontoon, but I kinda doubt it. Also, if you buy before fall I can show you what I do to winterize it, unless you want to pay a dealer hundreds of dollars, pretty easy, takes a few hours.