No announcement yet.

WTB - Maristar 210, 230VRS or similar

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • WTB - Maristar 210, 230VRS or similar

    Hi guys - been wanting a MC since 2013. Finally looking for a good deal on a Maristar or similar v drive for my first MC. Getting rid of my Supreme :-). Tower and bimini a plus. Price cap about $20,000 but prefer lower. Doesn't have to be perfect cosmetically but needs to be in sound mechanical shape. Thanks! Kevin

  • #2
    Found a 2000 model but it is rough cosmetically with 900 hrs. Should I be scared or do the hours indicate regular use and being reliable? Thanks


    • #3
      Got photos or a link to the ad or something?

      I bought my 03 with 700-odd hours, I'm at 840-ish now. Engine wise, besides oil/impeller/ballast impeller changes, I've had to do the following:
      Idler pulley bearing failed, took out the idler pulley and belt. Replaced both, took about 2 hours?
      Fuel pump failed, replaced the fuel pump only (not the pump assembly), took about an hour to remove/replace, but 2-3 hours to source a viable aftermarket replacement.
      Currently dealing with a low fuel pressure concern, (bought new fuel pressure regulator, haven't installed it).
      Overall, nothing too major. Did it all in my garage/driveway with basic hand tools, so if you're mechanically minded, nothing to be afraid of. Up next for me will be throttle and steering cables, probably this fall or next spring.

      I did buy my boat on consignment from a dealer, so there was a pre-sale 'service' (oil, impeller change, spark plugs, detail, etc.) and a water test before I signed papers.

      You'll get mixed messages on higher hour boats. Some would say run, others would say those hours, if the engine looks clean and well maintained, are nothing to worry about. There's one member here who's got something like 1800 hours on the original engine in his boat. If the seller is good with it, maybe do a compression test? Pull and inspect the spark plugs? Ask for a water test, if possible. At a minimum, I'd ask if they can hook up a hose and start it, so you can hear it run.

      As far as cosmetics, is it just the interior, or is the hull rough too? Does it just need a good wet sand/polish/wax, or does the hull have damage? I think the late 90's, very early 2000's boats had issues with vinyl not holding up, this one would certainly be in the right year range for that issue.

      I will note that on these years, at the stern of the boat where the outer rear corners of the locker lids are, the hulls are prone to stress cracking. Happened on mine, both sides. Talked to a fiberglass pro, he said it's just cosmetic, and while he'd happily take my money, there wasn't much he could do to keep it from happening again.

      You can figure a new interior to be around $4500-6000, and the hull can be buffed for the cost of a buffer, some pads and a couple of bottles of compound and wax and a weekend or so. Not the end of the world. My interior is going, and my plan is to (hopefully) pre-purchase the material, then do a couple of seats/panels each month. Total cost should work out the same, but spreading the cost over time feels better than throwing down 5K in one go.

      You've probably done your research, and while they're not the latest and greatest, they're a solid boat. Wake is decent for wakeboarding, and while people say they can surf them, I still can't go ropeless. Not sure if it's the boat, the board or me. But I still enjoy it, and my family loves lake days.

      I don't think I'd be too worried about 900 hours (equates to about 63K miles at 70 mph), but I'd want to take it for a test drive to make sure it's solid. If you're not in a hurry to buy, it doesn't hurt to keep your options open. And be willing to drive for the right boat. Mine was 500 miles away, but I had a chance to check it out on the way home from vacation. After seeing it, I put a deposit down, drove back two weeks later to water test and finish the deal.



      • #4

        Got this video from the seller. We took it out on the water today. Drives good. Engine sounds good. A little rattle in the vdrive in reverse at idle speed - is that normal? never had a vdrive.

        Gauge computer is shot and no radio but does have a monster tower


        • #5
          G, thanks for the good info - the hull is in good shape - a few minor scratches but nothing major and nothing that looks structural. lots of board scrapes on the top rail - the seller had 3 sons so it hasn't had a pampered life but seems to have been kept up mechanically except for the gauge issue.


          • #6
            Gauges from that year are a known issue. The MDC system is known to fail, which affects the gauges. Some folks jus replace the gauges with analog, but I think it’s possible to rebuild the gauges as well. There’s a thread here-

            I don’t think the transmission rattle is normal- it can mean a trans rebuild in the future. It doesn’t sound bad though. Not sure I’d be afraid of it. Having said that, I haven’t had to rebuild mine, so not sure how much it costs. Mine rattles too, I know it’s another thing I’ll have to do some day.

            I bought my boat knowing it would need work at some point. I’ll deal with the interior as long as I can, then replace it. If you’re ok with knowing you’ll have projects to do, quirks to sort out, can lie with the issues until you resolve them and you’re good with the price, it’s certainly a boat worth considering.