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New life for a 205V and suggestions for its future

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  • New life for a 205V and suggestions for its future

    It's a sad day for the 2001 205V. She needs a new motor and transmission. I would love to hear from everyone on what they would choose to do if they were in my situation. ( I plan to keep the boat so not moving forward with the replacement isn't something I'm considering.)

    The boat has the LTR and most of the parts are in good condition and can be reused with a new LTR which will bring my total cost down. HOWEVER with the need for a new transmission this frees me up to potentially put something like the MCX in the boat. I need a new alternator as well and am considering going with drip-less shaft seal ( I know very little about the shaft seal except people seem to speak highly of it on TT )

    SO, who would opt for the MCX over the LTR regardless of cost difference? Any other engine you would go with over those 2?

    Who would go with the drip-less shaft seal even though the current seal seems to be fine? Any brand you would recommend?

    I plan to have a decent sound system when the boat is complete, nothing TOO crazy, what size and brand alternator would you recommend?

    Anything else I might be missing that you would suggest be done when the engine is removed?

  • #2
    Why does it need a new transmission?

    A dripless shaft seal is a no brainer since they're awful hard to get to on V-Drive boats to service. On a DD less of an issue since tightening them down can be done on the lake with little to no effort. There are basically two types, one has a seal that runs on the shaft and one has a seal that presses into another surface basically a disc that is on the shaft.

    The one that seals to the shaft is more sensitive to run out and engine alignment in terms of wearing out and the PSS precision shaft system style that has a bellows is less sensitive but costs more.

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    • #3
      Sorry to hear the news. That's really unfortunate. Other's will chime in, but I'll give my take. The MCX is more desirable from a resell perspective (and looks "cool"), but from what I've read, you'll be hard pressed to realize any performance gains between the LTR and the MCX. It's only 20 HP difference, right? This can be made up with the right prop selection. Also, not sure, but if you made the swap, you may also need to consider your ECU. Don't know for sure, but it may require different code.

      Curious what others have to say on the seal as I'm looking to swap mine for dripless this winter. If it needs to be replaced, no sense in not going with dripless, IMO.

      Knock on wood, but I've been running the stock alternator without issue for years and am running ~1500W with 2 amps and 2 batteries. Never been a problem. I do have a good onboard battery charger though and plug it in every time I bring her home. If it were me, I probably wouldn't bother with upgrading unless I knew I had to replace all the cables.
      ¡Viva 205V!
      2003 X2 MCX

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      • #4
        I have looked at the dripless seal for my 205V but I don't think I'm going to go in that direction because it's a lot easier to replace packing than to replace a dripless seal. They don't last forever you know and with a V-drive you have to pull the drive shaft to replace a dripless seal. With packing it's a simple process to replace it with no drive shaft removal.
        2000 Prostar 205V

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        • #5
          Also - I think you're going to find it prohibitively expensive to change out an entire engine. Most engine 'replacements' I've seen are actually rebuilds with a new short of long block depending. That way you reuse a lot of the parts that are still good.
          2000 Prostar 205V

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          • #6
            I'm with Bruce on the MCX. Back in the day there were countless threads on the 2 motors along with dyno sheets. On the bottom the base engine actually very slightly outperformed the MCX with the MCX making it's additional HP at higher RPM. There were tons of people going off and making statements that they would never own a boat without and MCX but based on fact, not feel there were no compelling reason to make those statements other than not being able to read a dyno sheet. Don't get me wrong the MCX is way, way cooler looking and given the choice between 2 identical boats for the same money, I would take the MCX every time. For $5K more? Sorry, after owning an 07 with the standard engine there is no way in my book the MCX would be worth more than a grand for me.

            I've obviously had both shaft seals. For me, there's no way I wouldn't go dripless if I had the motor out. Everything is right there in front of you. Not sure but I think my boat(s) had the OJ version and all 3 never leaked or required maintenance. I see OJ now has a new version out that doesn't need a waterline. I'd probably look more into that and give them a call.

            https://www.ojprops.com/products/flex-gland/#


            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERxONEpGV_M

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            • #7
              Thinking outside the box, and assuming your block can be salvaged, you can easily make more power with some changes to the valve train and a little more compression. A little larger cam (maybe even a port/polish if you were feeling crazy), increase the compression by a point or 2 and some tuning time would probably get you more power than the MCX ever produced at the RPMs you want. Cost would be more than the "standard" parts rebuild, but less than the "upgrade to MCX" costs.

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              • #8
                If it was me, I would just go with a new block for the LTR. The 205v is not big enough to really need a substantially larger engine. Larger alternator, drip less seal, maybe even closed cooling to make winterizing easier. If you go with a totally different engine you end up with a unicorn that is harder to fix and troubleshoot.

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                • #9
                  depending on your budget, I would look into a 6.0 ilmor to bring the powertrain up to current spec

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                  • #10
                    http://www.inboardmarineengine.com/h...e-inboard.html
                    2000 Prostar 205V

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                    • #11
                      dpb185 are you recommending these folks? Have used them before? Not sure about sending that kind of $ to a company in Indonesia and hoping an engine shows up....
                      -----------------------------------
                      Mastercraft ProStar 2019 5.7L - Current
                      Mastercraft X25 2014 6.2L - Current
                      Nautique 200 OB 2012 5.7L - Current

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                      • #12
                        Thank you all for the great ideas. Lakedrum the block has an internal crack so its NFG. The cheapest route will be to get a new long block and reuse all the LTR parts. I plan to keep the boat for a long time so cost isn't the overriding concern. Putting a 6.0 ilmor in the boat would be pretty amazing but probably a little overboard. Bruce, something to consider if you do the swap, OJ recommends replacing the shaft when you go drip-less because it needs to be flawless where the drip-less seal is installed. Closed cooling is intriguing

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                        • #13
                          Nope and I would not either. That price seems kind of low to me for a crate engine but I'm not an expert.
                          2000 Prostar 205V

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                          • #14
                            I'd be hesitant to buy a crate engine that is not a 'name brand.' Read in this forum about all the different phantom or real sensor/ignition/wiring issues that various marine engines have had over the years. I would not want to try to troubleshoot these issues without the vast knowledge and experience available here.
                            2000 Prostar 205V

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mainely Wake View Post
                              Thank you all for the great ideas. Lakedrum the block has an internal crack so its NFG.
                              Well that sucks. Michigan Motorz has a good reputation for replacement engines. You can buy a long block from them for <$4k. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-...e-1996-current

                              Any same series bare block should work as well, just make sure to use marinized parts for things like the freeze plugs. Sounds like a fun winter project to me. Maybe it will look like this by spring time.

                              Click image for larger version

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