Ballast advice "engine must operate at 1500 RPM during the fill and empty processes"

[crffl]

The owner's manual for my new-to-me 2007 X45 says "On boat models equipped with a ballast system, a three-position switch will allow for the filling or emptying of the ballast tanks and/or bags. It is important to be aware that the engine must operate at 1500 RPM during the fill and empty processes. Failure to do so can result in malfunction or permanent damage to the ballast pumps that force the water through the system."

I used the boat for the first time this weekend before reading this warning so hopefully no damage was done! That said I don't fully understand the directions for the fill and drain processes. Is the engine supposed to be at 1500 RPM in neutral or while in motion? Can the RPMs be higher than 1500 RPM, i.e. filling while surfing?

Also, I plan to add piggyback tanks to create a better surf wake/wave, and I came across this note - "2007 MasterCraft boats have 6 minute timer modules which will need to be swapped with the 20 Minute MasterCraft Timer Modules to ensure the added ballast bags will both fill and drain when integrated into the factory system." I assume the '20 Minute MasterCraft Timer Modules' can be purchased from MasterCraft, but I am wondering if the pump(s) should only be run for a maximum of ~6min at a time so they don't overheat? There must be a reason that MC wanted the pump(s) to time-off after 6mins.

[ShuManChu]

To my knowledge, the pump timers were there so that they could using fixed timing at a known flow rate to determine fill level. This allows them to not have to install level senders that measure the actual water level. I don't think the ballast pumps will overheat as long as there is water flowing through them, but they might if you run them dry for a while.

Also, I believe you can run the 6 minute timers multiple times in order to achieve a larger fill. You only need to swap for the longer timers if you want to just push the fill button once and then not worry about whether its full or not. You can just use as many 6 minute fills as it takes for water to start shooting out the vent.

And yes you are supposed to fill them while in motion with the RPM above 1500. Another note: on the soft sided bags like the piggy back, you will occasionally have to "burp" them to allow trapped air bubbles to escape out the vent tube.

[MattsCraft]

Fill while standing still (In Neutral) @ 1200-1500 rpm's. If you listen to the pumps closely, you will hear them spin up when you increase engine rpm. The fill/empty thru hulls do not have scuppers, so filling in motion is counter intuitive. Empty while in motion/plowing @ 1500 rpm's, following these 2 rules will give you the most efficient and accurate fill/empty times. For an '07, someone on here does timer re-program for longer fill/empty times when adding overflow bags.

[jpwhit]

If you fill while moving more than at idle, you'll end up sucking a lot of air into the bags / tanks. And you can potentially overheat the pumps and / or damage the impellers.

The reason for the 1500 rpm while running the pumps, is so the voltage doesn't drop too low. If the voltage drops, then the current to the pumps goes up. That can damage the pumps. These pumps pull a ton of power so the alternator needs to be spinning faster than at idle to produce enough power.

You can dump the ballast at any speed. I dump my ballast on full plane heading back to my dock.

[Forrest-X45]

I usually idle the engine between 1200-1500 rpm while filling/dumping ballast. The pumps seem to run better. I installed the wakemakers piggyback bags two summers ago and had my timers modified to extend fill/drain intervals. It was much cheaper to have the timers modified for the extended intervals.

[crffl]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I will fill while stationary @ ~1500rpm and empty while cruising back to home base.

installed the wakemakers piggyback bags two summers ago and had my timers modified to extend fill/drain intervals. It was much cheaper to have the timers modified for the extended intervals.

Can someone provide a contact for the person or company that can modify my 2007 timers to run longer than stock, which I believe is 6mins.

[chrislandy]

If you fill while moving more than at idle, you'll end up sucking a lot of air into the bags / tanks. And you can potentially overheat the pumps and / or damage the impellers.

The reason for the 1500 rpm while running the pumps, is so the voltage doesn't drop too low. If the voltage drops, then the current to the pumps goes up. That can damage the pumps. These pumps pull a ton of power so the alternator needs to be spinning faster than at idle to produce enough power.

You can dump the ballast at any speed. I dump my ballast on full plane heading back to my dock.

Really? Doesn't it use the same intake as the engine cooling raw pump? If it dragged air in then surely you would get airlocks or burnt out impellers all the time?

100% on the voltage/current it also takes strain off the alternator and engine as they closer to their normal operating window.

If they share the raw water intake then you need more flow for the impeller to cool the engine, it barely pumps enough at idle anyway without another pump pinching the water before the impeller

[MattsCraft]

No it does not use the same intake - Boat has 2 separate intakes for ballast, and 3 overflows under the rub rail, one each overflow for port/starboard/rears and one mid-ship next to the bilge. Look under your hull when on the trailer, you will find 2 white little screens/intakes at about mid ship for ballast and a separate scupper intake for raw water cooling.

[jpwhit]

Really? Doesn't it use the same intake as the engine cooling raw pump? If it dragged air in then surely you would get airlocks or burnt out impellers all the time?

100% on the voltage/current it also takes strain off the alternator and engine as they closer to their normal operating window.

If they share the raw water intake then you need more flow for the impeller to cool the engine, it barely pumps enough at idle anyway without another pump pinching the water before the impeller

No, the ballast systems on MasterCraft boats explicitly do not share the raw water intake and the intakes for ballast and raw water are of a different design. This is specifically so there is no interaction between engine / exhaust cooling and the ballast system.

The engine raw water intake has a scoop on it, which creates more drag, but makes it suitable for taking in water while the boat is moving. But it also makes it work great for taking in water but not for expelling water.

The thru hull for the ballast systems is flush with the hull and is a slotted grate to keep debris out. My X-25 has two thru hulls for the ballast system and some of the newer boats have three. When the boat is in motion, the flow of water by the flush thru hull tends to create some amount of negative pressure which actually make it expel water better, but is detrimental for taking in water. I think part of why it sucks in air is due to cavitation when the boat is moving faster than idle. It also may be sucking in bubbles that are traveling under the hull. I have clear hoses on my ballast system, and if you watch the hoses while taking in water going 20 ish mph, you can see that the water stream is about 50% bubbles.

Even my 19 ProStar has separate intakes for engine / exhaust cooling and the MTS ballast system.

[chrislandy]

No, the ballast systems on MasterCraft boats explicitly do not share the raw water intake and the intakes for ballast and raw water are of a different design. This is specifically so there is no interaction between engine / exhaust cooling and the ballast system.

....

Even my 19 ProStar has separate intakes for engine / exhaust cooling and the MTS ballast system.

You learn something every day! I've never had an integral ballast boat so never needed to look at it. My PS doesn't have MTS, just an LPG tank infront of the observer seat in the storage area so acts like a permanent MTS.

[Forrest-X45]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I will fill while stationary @ ~1500rpm and empty while cruising back to home base.



Can someone provide a contact for the person or company that can modify my 2007 timers to run longer than stock, which I believe is 6mins.

tr6coug performed my timer modification.