Battery switch automation

[braindamage]

I just picked up a ‘22 Prostar. I’m new to MC and this vintage boat (coming from ‘12 Malibu Reaponse TXi).

there is a strong recommendation that I turn off the battery isolation switch after each use. I’ve read enough to determine that for some reason this is required. I’m not questioning that.

my concern is that the switch requires me to remove the judge’s seat to manually actuate the switch. This will inevitably cause a tear or wear in the vinyl. Has anyone installed an interposing relay so the isolation could either be automated through the key switch or install a separate switch that is more convenient to operate?

[jpwhit]

Powering a relay would draw current all the time when the battery switch is "On". That would make matter worse IMO. The main battery switch also has to handle a lot of current. So you'd need a large contactor to automate that. And they tend to draw a fair amount of power.

I only turn the switch off in my ProStar if I'm going to be away for a few weeks. The thing you do have to watch out for, that'll run the battery down, is leaving the stereo powered up. Since it's in the glove box, it's easy to leave it on. It's wired such that it'll stay on when the switch is turned off. I've thought about changing that on mine to only power the stereo if the key switch is turned on.

[braindamage]

Powering a relay would draw current all the time when the battery switch is "On". That would make matter worse IMO. The main battery switch also has to handle a lot of current. So you'd need a large contactor to automate that. And they tend to draw a fair amount of power.

I only turn the switch off in my ProStar if I'm going to be away for a few weeks. The thing you do have to watch out for, that'll run the battery down, is leaving the stereo powered up. Since it's in the glove box, it's easy to leave it on. It's wired such that it'll stay on when the switch is turned off. I've thought about changing that on mine to only power the stereo if the key switch is turned on.

I was surprised when I turned off the boat that the seat heaters and the heater remained on. I assume the stereo and other accessories stay on as well (bilge?)

I’m not sure I understand what power would be continuously supplied to an interposing relay. If wired through the key or another switch, there would be no continuous voltage to the coil, which is what would actuate the switch. Also-while the relay would need to be sized to handle the inrush current of the starter, it would not have to open or close at this elevated amperage.

below is an example. The perko switch is typically 350A, so this would be more than adequate. It’s pretty small.

500 Amp Battery Isolator for Mobile Audio Relay Continuous Battery Isolator, 12v Battery Disconnect Relay 500A Relay and Isolator https://a.co/d/7WiFFWE

[braindamage]

Is the key a dry contact or is it some sort of node on the MC control network? If it’s on a network, then you couldn’t use it as an isolation switch to the relay coil. If it is a dry contact (or has a dry contact), then the question is whether it has the ampacity to feed the coil inrush and operating current.

[MLA]

The purpose of the switch is to disconnect all voltage from the noncrucial electrical loads. So any elaborate electrical switch setup would, well, require the vert voltage the manual switch is there to disconnect.

[Tony84121]

Blue Sea makes a remote battery isolator. You would just need to add a trigger wire/switch somewhere more “accessible” for your needs. Here’s a link:

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/blu7713-blue-sea-7713-mlrbs-remote-battery-switch-wman.html

[waterlogged882]

Blue Sea makes a remote battery isolator. You would just need to add a trigger wire/switch somewhere more “accessible” for your needs. Here’s a link:

I started down that path but came to realize that item only isolates the batteries, one from the other and power would still be connected to the system. I could be wrong.

In general I think the head unit (for i.e) and maybe the main hot feed is wired incorrectly, leaving the issue at hand...however more specifically, I know nothing about the new machines.

Most if not all installs I do on older set ups involve two power wires on the head. One for memory (typically yellow in color), one for power on/off (typically red).

To your point, the isolator shown in your link is typically wired to the run post on the ignition switch, to power on (combined) or power off (separated). I have a Blue Sea isolator and a main switch, where my isolator is wired as stated. Works like it should. When I turn my main switch off, everything is off. Nothing is powered. I have separate battery monitors (one for each battery) wired directly to each battery, by-passing the system setup and charge them as they sit in the garage.

If anyone here knows, MLA is one of the several few that knows a lot about electrical components... a.k.a. subject matter expert.

I can't think of anything (within my pay grade) that meets the question of the original question at hand. That specifically is why I always suggest locating the main switch in a convenient location, relative to sitting in the driver's seat.

For me? I'd move it elsewhere, in particular onto a kick panel near the driver's left knee, if this year make has that panel feature.

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[CruisinGA]

Look up the Yandina battery combiner. I used one in my fishing/hunting boat and I’m very happy with it. Totally automatic and ensures my house battery is always charger but house loads can never draw down my starting battery.

[braindamage]

Thanks for all the ideas. I have a friend who owns an engineering company specializing in boats. He mostly works on yachts and commercial ships.

he suggest an ACR along with a lighted toggle switch to actuate it. Below is a link to one. He didn’t send it, so I’m not sure it’s the one he referenced.

Limited-time deal: Blue Sea Systems 7610 SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC / 120A https://a.co/d/iGQ0PSs

I have an EE degree and worked for 24 years in industrial control, so this doesn’t seem like it should be complicated.

does anyone have wiring diagrams for the ‘21+ Prostar?

[braindamage]

waterlogged882 wiring a more convenient switch is a back up plan. I recognize that my plan may void the warranty, so I need to dig into that.

[waterlogged882]

Thanks for all the ideas. I have a friend who owns an engineering company specializing in boats. He mostly works on yachts and commercial ships.

he suggest an ACR along with a lighted toggle switch to actuate it. Below is a link to one. He didn’t send it, so I’m not sure it’s the one he referenced.

Limited-time deal: Blue Sea Systems 7610 SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC / 120A https://a.co/d/iGQ0PSs

I have an EE degree and worked for 24 years in industrial control, so this doesn’t seem like it should be complicated.

does anyone have wiring diagrams for the ‘21+ Prostar?

That link is a common setup, of which I have in my machine. However it is merely a relay for failed open or failed closed as I described in an earlier post...wired to the run position on the ignition switch. The lighted toggle does the exact same thing as to open/closed relative to the ignition switch.

I don't see you gaining anything with that ACR, if I understand your question / issue correctly. That said, I think you will have to keep the manual effort of turning the main switch off/on...just relocate it to a more convenient location. Mine too is a little inconvenient (my own fault for not putting it a little closer to my reach when I installed it).

Best on the solution.

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[jpwhit]

The key switch is a dry contact switch, so if you wanted to energize a contactor off of that then that should work. Personally, I wouldn't want my key switch to turn off the main power because I turn the key on and off while out on the water fairly often. And I wouldn't want everything to have to reboot every time I turned the key back on. I thought you were saying you wanted another main power switch in an easier location than the current battery switch. You will probably need a smaller relay to drive the contactor coil power, because I doubt the key switch contacts are rated for switching the in-rush power of a contactor. My comment about it drawing power, was about using power anytime the new main power switch was turned on. Since I don't have any issues with OEM setup, where I leave everything turn on unless I'm leaving for a few weeks, this doesn't really sound like an improvement to me.

If you're ok with audio, the screen and other things having to reboot whenever you turn on the key switch, then that may be a better solution for you.

I doubt you'll be able to find a wiring diagram. MasterCraft does not publish them. Older model diagrams eventually get out, but I haven't even seen any diagrams newer than about 2010 MasterCrafts available on the internet.

You're not likely to get a very black / white answer on whether these changes will impact your warranty. To be absolutely sure your warranty is not impacted, you'd need something in writing from MasterCraft, and I seriously doubt you'd ever get that. On the other side of the coin, there are laws in some states that say they'd have to prove your changes caused the issue, but that's not worth much unless you're willing to file suit if you're denied. And it's probably not worth it.

[tomwhitejr1]

Don't the '24 boats have a remote battery cutoff? Toggle switch by the key?

[eecyclone]

I just picked up a ‘22 Prostar. I’m new to MC and this vintage boat (coming from ‘12 Malibu Reaponse TXi).

there is a strong recommendation that I turn off the battery isolation switch after each use. I’ve read enough to determine that for some reason this is required. I’m not questioning that.

my concern is that the switch requires me to remove the judge’s seat to manually actuate the switch. This will inevitably cause a tear or wear in the vinyl. Has anyone installed an interposing relay so the isolation could either be automated through the key switch or install a separate switch that is more convenient to operate?

I've been thinking of doing something similar this off-season with my XT22. It seems easy enough to wire a remote isolator in between the battery and the battery switch. You would need one for each battery. Then you would need to move a couple loads to the "battery" post of the isolator- the starter and the bilge pumps. They are currently on the "battery" post of the battery switch.

FYI I removed the isolation relay for the amplifiers as each of the amps already have an internal relay. This isolation relay was the big parasitic power draw when the boat is off and the battery switch is left on. Without the isolator I'm able to leave my battery switch on a few days at a time where with that constant draw it would drain the (house) battery in less than a day.

[eecyclone]

Don't the '24 boats have a remote battery cutoff? Toggle switch by the key?

I think the '24 boats can have the house battery shut off remotely.