Amp Cooling

[mpabreo]

Ive heard a lot of good things about the HD amps, never used one though.

[zberger]

I'm currently working on this same issue for my 09 X45. The stock amps dont get too hot as mid/high class AB amps dont draw much current, but my sub amp gets really hot. This weekend, while out anchored at the sandbar, it got so hot I couldnt touch it, yet its protection feature had not yet cut off the amp for exceeding temperature limits. I have used stinger barrel type fans before to solve this problem, this time I think im going with PAC diametral fans, probably 2, 115 cfm each. As for wiring, all that is needed is to tie the power into one of the amp remote wires, and ground under the dash or some other nearby ground location. They are very simple installations. Remember, make sure the airflow is directed across the heat sinks on the amp(s).

It might be worth looking into a class D sub amp them.. ~70% effiency vs. ~50% with class AB amps.

They run alot cooler because less power is wasted as heat.

JL just came out with their HD amps.. which are pretty flippin neat. Class D power usage with class AB sound.

[btriantos]

EAgle Lake, I would love to see a picture of your set up.. I'm struggling with how/where I'm going to put this thing

[Eagle Lake Rebel]

Running 4 amps in my '07 X30 without overheat pbls. When running, I'll open the port bow backrest for a nice cool 95 to 100 degree gulp of Mississippi air. Two of my amps have built in fans which help a lot. You can mount 3 amps on the side wall if you get a bit creative. I'll try to get a photo to you on how they are mounted, but that may take a few days.

[btriantos]

Thanks Again. It's the 10IB5

[RWB_XSTAR]

Have to post when you install to see if it solves the issue. I need a similar remedy as when I'm tied-up and partying or at the sandbar mine will cut off for a good 15 to 20 min. Amps seem cool...so I'm guessing its the sub. I have 3 amps running.

[mpabreo]

I use sonicelectronix.com for most my audio, i think they have both barrel and traditional style cooling fans. Choose one (or more) that best fits your system layout.

Off topic question, anyone know which sub comes with our boats? the JL audio M10IB5 or the M10W5?

[btriantos]

Thanks! Where did you pick up the fans? I am getting the JL G1700 to run the existing 10" JL sub...taking it off the exisiting 6 channel. I'm sure a sub upgrade will be in order...but that will be next years project.

[mpabreo]

Cooling fans draw very little current, the PAC model I mention above draws 0.6 amps. Thats buttah! and surely won't be a consideration to your power system as described. Your caps also are not going to effect system draw. What will be the biggest voltage hog is the sub amp, assuming you have an aftermarket sub (more power than the stock sub).

To give you an idea, I have about 2000W RMS in my boat, my sub amp is a monster, and known for sucking power like I do beers. This weekend, I was anchored out for about 2hrs straight without the engine on and had the system pumping, I mean loud. Started the engine with no problem. This is with the battery switch on the S battery, never had to bump it to combined to get the boost.

Ultimately, whats going to give you more ability/power while the engine is off is a higher amp-hour (ah) rating on your batteries. Which is why you may have seen in a recent post today about batteries, that I'm switching to the AGM style battery that has far superior ah ratings.

Good luck. (Nice bote too!)

[btriantos]

My main concern of adding more electrical to the system is that I'm just not sure how long I can sit running the stereo with the engine off before the batteries die. This will put me at 3 amps, a powered sub, and a couple two farad caps to keep things on a even keel. I typically don't run the stereo that long with the engine off, but I don't want to take the chance. I did just install a battery charger too, just because I was getting worried about the power draw. I will have to re-arrange the two existing amps to take advantage of additional space, and I will make sure that they are gapped on the sidewall. What I don't want to do is have to mount the third amp on the carpeted floor...spacers or not.

[M-Funf]

Water cooled? Attach a heat exchanger to it and run lake water through the heat exchanger with a small pump.

[mpabreo]

I'm currently working on this same issue for my 09 X45. The stock amps dont get too hot as mid/high class AB amps dont draw much current, but my sub amp gets really hot. This weekend, while out anchored at the sandbar, it got so hot I couldnt touch it, yet its protection feature had not yet cut off the amp for exceeding temperature limits. I have used stinger barrel type fans before to solve this problem, this time I think im going with PAC diametral fans, probably 2, 115 cfm each. As for wiring, all that is needed is to tie the power into one of the amp remote wires, and ground under the dash or some other nearby ground location. They are very simple installations. Remember, make sure the airflow is directed across the heat sinks on the amp(s).

[brucemac]

i guess it could work, but it wouldn't help much when you're sitting idle, beached or anchored. why are you against getting a small draw fan? how about putting some "feet" under the amps so that they're raised off of the carpet/backing to allow for more airflow?

[btriantos]

I'm concerned about water splashing in the vent from windshield blasts, but rain won't be an issue. It's stored indoors. The tube will be about a foot from the first amp. I doubt any water getting in will have the velocity to get on the amps, but my design should prepare for the worst

[brucemac]

i'd be worried about water damage. my vents leak sometimes in a heavy rain.