Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Amp Cooling

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • btriantos
    replied
    Originally posted by Eagle Lake Rebel View Post
    btriantos, PM sent to you. I have a couple of shots to send. Used the stock wall. Installed spacers that allowed me to mount a additional amp backplane IN FRONT of the air vent tubing. I didn't want amps getting in the way of my surf sac that is located in the same storage area.
    I like the idea! Where did you get the spacers? I'll be heading to radio shack shortly for some electrical supplies...

    Leave a comment:


  • Eagle Lake Rebel
    replied
    btriantos, PM sent to you. I have a couple of shots to send. Used the stock wall. Installed spacers that allowed me to mount a additional amp backplane IN FRONT of the air vent tubing. I didn't want amps getting in the way of my surf sac that is located in the same storage area.

    Leave a comment:


  • btriantos
    replied
    Originally posted by Eagle Lake Rebel View Post
    Running 4 amps in my '07 X30 without overheat pbls. When running, I'll open the port bow backrest for a nice cool 95 to 100 degree gulp of Mississippi air. Two of my amps have built in fans which help a lot. You can mount 3 amps on the side wall if you get a bit creative. I'll try to get a photo to you on how they are mounted, but that may take a few days.
    Do you have a picture of your three amp set up in the storage locker? Did you have to modify the side surface or just use the stock wall?

    Leave a comment:


  • btriantos
    replied
    you guys are definately having me second guess this. My approach was going to be to get the amp, (G1700 - supposed to deliver 350w at 4 ohms), and see how that goes. I do not have very high expectations, but it should sound slightly better than the amp it's currently connected to at full gain.(stock JL 6 channel). Next season, I was planning on building a custom enclosure for the stock sub, possibly firing it downward in the same location, and have it completely sealed, and not ported (JL recommended this in a 2cf box). I am expecting a much bigger difference on this set up. I already have the Infinity Basslink in the storage locker, and it sounds great. I like clean tight bass, and hate booming, just for the sake of booming. The sub should exhance and round out the sound completely without being too overbearing.(IMO). With that said, am I still off to a bad start? I have built my own enclosures for my vehicles in the past, and follow acoustic guidlines, gut feel, and my ear to make tweaks. I love listening to music loud, but it has to be clean, and not muddy or boomy. That gives me a headache! On your sub upgrades, have you increased to 12's? Where did you locate? How many watts are you pumping to it? What is the RMS rating of the sub?

    Leave a comment:


  • mpabreo
    replied
    Originally posted by brucemac View Post
    fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.
    I 'third' that statement. My last boat I upgraded the sound system every winter for 5 years. The new boat got it done the right way the first go round, at least with the sub.

    Power = Sound.... I remember some audio guru telling me years ago something like..., for every 3db gain above 110-120db or so, you have to double the power to get it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott
    replied
    Originally posted by brucemac View Post
    fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.
    I would second this statement... I have upgraded my stereo numerous times... I wish I had done it right the first time..

    Leave a comment:


  • brucemac
    replied
    fwiw, i've had 3 subs in 3 years with 4 different amps on 2 different boats. in my opinion you won't notice a whole lot of difference going from 150-250W with the same sub and box. it's not going to blow you away or anything. i didn't really notice a big improvement until this past winter when i upgraded to 600W and i would still want a bit more if i had the coin to completely redo it and upgrade my alternator. i guess my point is, if it were me, i'd save my money and do it right so you're not disappointed and feeling like you need to upgrade again. depends on what you're after i guess too though.

    Leave a comment:


  • mpabreo
    replied
    Originally posted by btriantos View Post
    What is the spec difference between the two that is compelling? I got the G1700 for $275.00, which I thought was a good deal. I did not see the 750/1 any cheaper than $599. The budget's a bit tight this year.
    I was referencing the 250/1 slash amp not the HD 750/1. Big difference there. Jl's slash amps are very robust, you can get that amp for the same price as the G you mention. The 750/1 is a diff story. Reason I recommened the slash is that when u upgrade the sub, if u went with a 2 ohm sub, or a dual voicecoil 4 ohm sub, you could wire it and get about 350 watts rms from the slash amp as they are underrated at lower resistances. For now, you'd just keep the gain at a reasonable level with the stock sub. Just more boom for the buck!

    Leave a comment:


  • btriantos
    replied
    Originally posted by mpabreo View Post
    The G1700 will be an improvement from using the stock setup (2 channels off the M6600) which gives the sub 150w rms @ 4ohm. The G1700 will give you 250w rms at 4ohm.

    However, since you're upgrading the sub next year, I'd go with the better Slash series amps by JL. The 250/1 slash amp is only about 20 bucks more expensive and you'd be getting a much more solid amp.
    What is the spec difference between the two that is compelling? I got the G1700 for $275.00, which I thought was a good deal. I did not see the 750/1 any cheaper than $599. The budget's a bit tight this year.

    Leave a comment:


  • btriantos
    replied
    good to know
    Last edited by btriantos; 06-24-2009, 06:49 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • hawaiianstiln
    replied
    yah you will get water damage on those amps if you split that hose. I did it on my malibu and burned an amp up not realizing about the water damage.

    Leave a comment:


  • mpabreo
    replied
    Originally posted by btriantos View Post
    This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!
    The G1700 will be an improvement from using the stock setup (2 channels off the M6600) which gives the sub 150w rms @ 4ohm. The G1700 will give you 250w rms at 4ohm.

    However, since you're upgrading the sub next year, I'd go with the better Slash series amps by JL. The 250/1 slash amp is only about 20 bucks more expensive and you'd be getting a much more solid amp.
    Last edited by mpabreo; 06-24-2009, 02:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • zberger
    replied
    Originally posted by btriantos View Post
    This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!
    This is the monoblock class D HD amp from JL.
    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483

    Leave a comment:


  • MIskiboat
    replied
    Years ago when I was cool and had a system in my car, I added a very simple fan to a 4 channel Crutchfield amp (made by precision power IIRC). Anyway, I got a hold of a 12 volt flat based fan (kinda like the 3-4" ones used on old desktop computers) and screwed it to the end of the amp. I drilled holes in the metal amp case where the fan mounted. I think there was enough air gaps around the rest of the amp that it sucked air in from multiple spots (i.e. fuse block, RCA connections, etc). This was enough to fix the overheating problem I was having after running for a while. I had it on a separate switch w/LED on dash to look cool, but in reality, it could be connected to the amp turnon lead to make it easier, then it always runs. I know this cooled the internals rather than the fins, but still did the job.

    You may not want to drill in the side of your amp though, mine was a few years old. Just wanted to give another low cost option that worked for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • btriantos
    replied
    This JL G1700 is Class D...I hope there is an improvement!

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X