Add Ballast System install

[Captain Fronk]

Hello MC enthuriasts
Here some notes from my Project: Additional Ballast System X45.
Special thanks to Brian & Carly from Mastercraft Charlotte ([email protected])
And Jason from Wakemakers.com ([email protected]) for supporting me even on an other continent.

I try to be specific as possible to make it easy for you to do it on your own ... please dont blame me if not every detail is provided. Dont hurt yourself, pay attention to safy, dont overload the boat.

History:

Last year I equipped my X2 with the Fly High Pro X Series Mastercraft X-2 Additional Ballast System:

http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-mastercraft-x2-wakeboard-ballast-system.html

This worked fine so far (if you want to do this - order at least 14 ft more hose), but the manually switching of the "3 way valves" was not 100% sofisticated.

So with my new X45 2010 I wanted to improve this.
I decided to set up the add. Ballast System completly independent from the factory system.
Both should work (fill an drain) at the same time to be quicker and without moving to valves or whatever - simply turn switches ... same as with the factory system.

So I needed some parts (see list below this post)

Lets start

Pumps:

I placed the addional ballast puppys for the rear sacks behind the rear cover of the boot (left and right next to the engine). The X45 has enough space there and it is easy to fix with screws onto the outer side of "sepeartor walls" to the engine.
The ballast puppy for the front sacks I placed next to the gear box on the STBD side (just remove the rear seat cushions and you have good access).

My local MC Dealer build in an additional dual waterintale (throu the hull/bottom, next to the gear box port side) - also easy to access (for open and closing and mounting the hoses) when the rear seat cushions are removed.
I connected the 2 rear ballast puppys with this additional dual waterintake.

The front ballast puppy I connect via a Hose Barb Tee fitting to the original single Waterintake.
Q: Why add. Waterintake?
A: to avoid bottleneck for fill and drain
Q: Why not for front sacks?
A. Usually not filled so much / often ...

Plumbing:

See Picture. It is more or less self explaining. For the overflows my MC Dealer also put in 3 orig. Thru Hull Fittings. I connected the sacks via 1" Non-Return Check Valve Fittings to Hull Fittings.
Q: Why additional Thru Hull Fittings and not connecting to the ones from the factory system with a Tee Fitting?
A: Avoid Bottleneck when Sacks and Tanks are overfilled the pressure would blow either the Sack or tank because the outlet is to small.
Q: Why "non return" valves?
A: other wise drainings the sacks would not work appropriaty




green is intake
purple is overflow


Electical:

This is pretty much straight forward if you use the original Cable Harness from MC for the Jabsco AI3 (pump timer box) ask Brian or Carly if you are not sure. I think the harness I got will also work for other Boats than the X45.

http://www.jabsco.com/products/marine/general_purpose_pumps/11810_bronze_ac_motor_pump_unit_copy_11810_series/iid_5877/index.htm

The great thing about the harness is that the cables fits perfect in length from the Battery Main Switch to the AI ( I placed it in the STBD Boot at the same place the orig. AI3 is placed on the PORT side) and to the Dash and Ballast Puppys.



So everything looks 100% original (is close to 100% original)

Just connect the harness with the main battery switch panel and "ground" (Plug is included) and to the AI3.
Connect the 3 ballast puppys with the harness and the AI3 (I recommend to soft-solder this connection, as the ballast puppys are not shipped with a corresponding connector - or you order the puppys orig, by MC)

Connect the part of harness for the toggle switches with the AI3.
Then connect the toggle switches with the harness.

The harness has a connector that you have to cut off to get the switches connected. Check the Jabcao technical data sheet how to connect: http://www.jabsco.com/files/itemdoc158771.pdf

I also provieded as schema how the toggle switch workes / should be connected. Bridge 12V for the LED (see picture above with AI3 connetors)

Very simple. dont get confused by the lot of connects the switch is carring ... You just need 5 of the 8.


Switch mounting:
I used a stainless steek plate, which I custom ordered (shaping, hole drilling, painting, engraving).
To get the shape I cuted template from paper.
The best place is the empty place down left at the Dash (see picture)
Cutting the Dash is easy - no problem, drill and cut.



Thats it!
It took me 1.5 Days to get it done (if you have everything you need in place)


Have a look how deep the platform is under water (the factory ballast is not even filled) and the sacks filled in the Boot:



Have fun and enjoy the ride!
Cheers Captain Fronk



Appendix


Part Listing:

Mastercraft original:
1 AI3: Jabsco control box: Part Nr.500760
(wiring info check:http://www.jabsco.com/products/marin...5877/index.htm - Technical Data Sheet) just bridge 12V for "fill /

drain" to LED (see also switch schema picture above)
1 Waterintake: Part Nr. 1 300273
3 Thru Hull Fitting - Chrome Part Nr. 3 301010
3 Toggle Switches: Part Nr. 502260
1 Harness (Cables) : Part Nr. 500591

https://www.wakemakers.com

1 set Fly High Pro X Series Mastercraft X-Star Additional Ballast Bags : http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-m...bags-only.html
35ft - 1" Ballast Hose Black: http://www.wakemakers.com/mastercraft-ballast-hose.html
50 - Stainless Steel Hose Clamp : http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-hose-clamp.html
3 1" Non-Return Check Valve Fitting : http://www.wakemakers.com/check-valv...ng-1-inch.html
1 1" Hose Barb Tee Fitting : http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-hose-barb-tee.html

https://www.Westmarine.com

2 1" Nylon Hose Elbows, Barbed : http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...<br /> <br />
1 Multi-Die Ratcheting Crimper Kit : http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...<br /> <br />
3 Double Male/Female Adapter : http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=10613
20 Fully Insulated Nylon Disconnects (for toggle Switches) : http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...assNum=10613=-


Local:
1 2mm Stainless Steel Plate (Dashplate for Switches)
3 ft cable 0.75 or similar
Stainless steel screws (for fixing pumps, AI3, Switch dash ...)
Cable straps
electrical tape
heat shrink tube
...


Tool listing

:
1 Multi-Die Ratcheting Crimper Kit
1 jig saw
1 cordless screwdriver
1 high temp hairdryer
1 Set Srewdrivers
1 knife
1 Wire cutter
regular toolbox content .. in any case
...

[jdhart73]

Heck of a write up Fronk! Where are the pictures of the wake that bad boy is slinging now??

I am about to do the X-2 install myself on my 2006. I dont believe I have the ballast timers so I plan on just plumbing it in and re-routing the overflows out of the bags. Did you get a pretty nice surf wake on your X-2 with the fly high additional set up??

Jake

[Maristar210]

Now that is a great first post. Thanks for the info. Your set up looks great !!!

[ttu]

great write up.

quick question, i have installed the fly high ballast bags along with the 20 min timers. in the process of trying to program the timers but trying to figure out what to disconnect after the battery that goes to the pump to reprogram the system

thanks.

[Captain Fronk]

Hi Jake
X2 Surfwake "regular" was good to ride ... but for my surf skills the rideable area was to small to do a tricks like 360 or so.

Tip 1: add additional Fatbricks to "finetune"
Tip 2: use X-Star bags for the rear - they fit in the X2 and gives you some gallons more ...
Tip 3. dont re route the the overflows from the factory ballast to fatsacks. 2 Issues with that:
first: Factory Ballast could blow because of the pressure of water from the sacks above (not likely but possible)
second: you cant add a check valve so draining the sacks is not optimal. With check valve you could destroy the factory ballast (vacuum)

[Captain Fronk]

first measure the time the pumps are running (i.e. 4min 30sec)
This is important, so that you know how many "toggles" you need to add to get to your target time (i.e. 14min).
If you "overtoggle" = add more toggle (30sec add. time per toggle) that 20min, you have to start again.

After you know your time, disconnect the timer from power and diconnect the pump from timer.
then follow up the jabsco timer instructions.

http://www.jabsco.com/files/itemdoc158781.pdf

cheers Captain Fronl

[TallRedRider]

I had my front sacks like that, the front right sack vaccuumed itself shut and then the second sac in the series would not empty. I can't explain why yours works and mine didn't. You have already had it out, right?

I had to run a T so that the lines went into each bag separately and then met together to go into the pump. When emptying, the one sac vaccuums itself shut and the other draws air via the overflow when it is done emptying.

[Captain Fronk]

I tested it only once - because the the weather is very bad and I could not go out to drive and ride ... and it worked so far.

here the schema (see picture):
Blue: water in
Green: overflow

From the right sack the hose is connected to the left sack on the lower right corner from downwards.

Overflow is connected on the "highest point" with a smooth curve back to the outtake in the hull on the right (if you drill an new hole, you could also place is on the left side of the hull - I did not had the choice as my MC Dealer put it next to the original outtake - no problem ... I was not specific enough when I told him to do it)



A work around could be to insert a small hose in the right sack from the water intake to the connector to the left sack ... so that a small flow will always be possible thru that "internal hose" even the right sack is flat vaccuumed ... just an idea.

Cheers Captain Fronk

[Captain Fronk]

here some more Detail Pictures:
Dash 1:

Dash 2.

Waterintake next to gearbox :





Cant wait to test it - hope the weather get much better soon ...

cheers Captain Fronk

[Captain Fronk]

Goofy wake X45



here a buddy of mine on the goofy wake.
Setup: factory Ballast STBD full, Fatsack STBD full, factory KGB and Fatsacks KGB full, Surftab 100%, ... as we were only 2 persoms on bord we added 3 fatbricks ...

Cheers Captain Fronk

[CantRepeat]

Great install and it looks like some nice surfing!!

[mpabreo]

I needa do something like that, getting tired of riding with manual sacs.

[[email protected]]

Great job on the install Frank, glad everything worked out as far as coordinating all of the parts, and thanks for taking the time to document your process!

I would recommend configuring the bow bags so they fill in parallel instead of series, you'll having issues with them connected the way they are now.

[CantRepeat]

I needa do something like that, getting tired of riding with manual sacs.

[ATTACH]58381[/ATTACH]

Hey MPabreo, do you have any wake photos with all that in there?

[TallRedRider]

Great job on the install Frank, glad everything worked out as far as coordinating all of the parts, and thanks for taking the time to document your process!

I would recommend configuring the bow bags so they fill in parallel instead of series, you'll having issues with them connected the way they are now.

What he said.

I had my front sacks like that, the front right sack vaccuumed itself shut and then the second sac in the series would not empty. I can't explain why yours works and mine didn't. You have already had it out, right?

I had to run a T so that the lines went into each bag separately and then met together to go into the pump. When emptying, the one sac vaccuums itself shut and the other draws air via the overflow when it is done emptying.

What he said first.


I am in love with the plate for the switches. That is a real piece of art!!!! Wish I could reliably find someone who could fabricate stuff like that.