X-14/X-14v owners & enthusiasts thread

[FoggyNogginz]

<rant>

I really don't understand why we don't have a PS2XX-DD with the Gen 2 Surf tabs, a larger back ski locker like the X9 (but one that can handle the weight of a ballast bag on top of the fuel tank), and a bigger center ballast tank that runs from the ski pylon up toward the bow. As a skier who surfs, I would love this. Oh yeah, and an analog dash!

I mean, I know that surfing is what most folks are doing these days...but I don't like the idea of spending "new boat money" on a one trick pony. But when it comes to slalom, MC really only gives you one choice. I'd like to see them offer different hulls like Malibu does on the VTX and VLX too (wake/diamond).

</rant>

[thorn210]

I been reading this tread lately since I trade 2003 209 for my a 2013 X14. Been enjoying the boat except for a few minor issues. Took the kids out today for last lake day before that start school tomorrow. Water pump fails and have to be towed in. Called dealer and he says mastercraft recommends changing impeller every fifty hours. I have 50.4 hours on my boat. I had a mastercraft since my dad bought one in 1990. I used to get two seasons out of impellers, What happened? I ordered two impellers to get here later this week. The engine was to hot to mess with today so put on trailer and came home. I just feel the problems should not exist in a boat that cost this much money. Touch screen freeze up when thing to use profiles, Front ballast pump failed last weekend due to being mounted to low in boat and getting wet. Sorry to rant just frustrated with quality!

[FoggyNogginz]

I've had every single one of those problems, and I also had an older X9 before this. I'm not sure what to say other than I've had to work these gremlins out of mine this season, and quite a bit of it was reengineering ignorance (ballast pumps mounted upside down, wiring not shielded from moisture, relay mounted in wet area, etc.). I love the boat now, but they clearly have some quality control issues these days compared to a decade ago.



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[FoggyNogginz]

I raised the platform tonight on teak. Pleased with how it looks, and will post surf photos asap. I got the teak from Teakworld in Lebanon TN, as they make the platforms for MC and they are only 30 mins from my house. $45 investment. Hoping for the results above!

[JohnE]

<rant>

I really don't understand why we don't have a PS2XX-DD with the Gen 2 Surf tabs, a larger back ski locker like the X9 (but one that can handle the weight of a ballast bag on top of the fuel tank), and a bigger center ballast tank that runs from the ski pylon up toward the bow. As a skier who surfs, I would love this. Oh yeah, and an analog dash!

I mean, I know that surfing is what most folks are doing these days...but I don't like the idea of spending "new boat money" on a one trick pony. But when it comes to slalom, MC really only gives you one choice. I'd like to see them offer different hulls like Malibu does on the VTX and VLX too (wake/diamond).

</rant>

I think it is because the DD market totally died. The hype looking forward to the X14 in '07 was insane. I have no idea why it disappeared. But it did. By fall of '08 it has shifted to the X14V. There just isn't enough market in a larger DD than the slalom flagship to warrant it. Couple that with the fact that a tournament slalom boat isn't ever going to throw a great surf wake regardless of amount of ballast, tabs, gen 2, etc and it just doesn't make any sense to build one.

With that said, I'm with you. If they made one I'd buy it tomorrow.

[cdstukey]

I assumed the 2" aluminum spacer on my X14V was factory, maybe not- I'm not sure?

My 2010 is similar in style to this. I believe the earlier boats have a shorter (height) platform bracket with the two inch piece on top. On later boats, like rtw's, it looks like they went to a taller bracket with out the extra piece on top. I would guess the overall height of the two styles is roughly the same. The top of my platform is about one inch below the lifting rings in the stock position.

[rtw_travel]

I think that's the key- the height of the platform relative to the lifting lugs. I moved mine from about 1.5" below to just below.... Or from flush with the water when at rest, to completely above the water. It shows it on the pics a few posts ago.

So earlier boats need another 1.5" on top of the piece they already have? That would be harder to do, but I think I'd just use a larger piece of aluminum square tube in place of the existing one? Found some here: http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/...cc=%20&aident=
3.5" x3.5" or 4"x4" might fit, but you'd have to burst a brain cell figuring out how to get screws into both the brackets and the platform because I think 5" screws would be hard to find/ not as strong with a large unsupported length.

How is your existing square tube fastened?

Edit: Option b is to bring the assembly to a local fab shop and have them cut the mounting plate off and weld an aluminum extension onto the brackets and then re-weld the mounting plate back on to the extension. That shouldn't be unreasonably expensive because they are small pieces: $100-200 ?

[thorn210]

froggynogginz, So you inverted the front Ballast? Did you shield the motor in any way so that water seeping the access door wont effect it? Did you have to reverse the pump head on motor so fill and empty still work as designed? Also on the raw water pump running without sea strainer, do your impellers last all season? Sorry so many questions but it sounds like you have dealt with the issues that I'm having. Dealer not much help with modifying. Thanks for any input.

[FoggyNogginz]

froggynogginz, So you inverted the front Ballast? Did you shield the motor in any way so that water seeping the access door wont effect it? Did you have to reverse the pump head on motor so fill and empty still work as designed? Also on the raw water pump running without sea strainer, do your impellers last all season? Sorry so many questions but it sounds like you have dealt with the issues that I'm having. Dealer not much help with modifying. Thanks for any input.

Yes, I turned the pump around (and two others in the boat that were upside down). When you do this, you have to reverse the wiring at the switch as well so that drain/fill are not reversed. I did not shield the pump in any way, and it has worked fine so far. Fills much faster too now that it is priming better.

Next, in speaking with my dealer and reading on this forum, I have learned that the impellers on the Sherwood raw water cooling pumps are commonly being replaced in the 50-60 hour interval, which is apparently the recommendation from Ilmor. The theory as to why these are wearing out so quickly is based on a few different things. First, this boat has a dripless shaft which drains the manifolds once the boat is pulled out of the water (unlike my Indmar, which kept the manifolds wet). This means that the raw water pump on the Ilmor is starting somewhat dry (assuming that you trailer the boat), and the pump is having to suck water back into the waterlines and manifolds to get a good cooling flow, which simply has to be harder on the impeller. In fact, I have been told by MC and Ilmor to run my engine at a high idle for the first 60-90 seconds to prime the pump and get the sufficient water into the system to keep the engine cool at idle speeds in the no wake zone. I have only had this boat since March (my third MC), but if I do not prime the pump then it will over heat in a no wake zone.

As a side note, the newer Ilmor motors have a 190 degree thermostat in them, which means that these engines are running hotter...and this likely takes a toll on the impeller as well.

As for the sea strainer, I will likely put mine back in there for resale value, but there is really no reason for this strainer on a clean lake other than making it a tiny bit easier to clean out lake muck if you ever get something into the intake hose.

I hope this helps!

[Ikeseries]

Looking to put a tower on my 2008 prostar 214. Anybody put a tower on the 214 and have advice to share? Order from local dealer?

[93Prostar190]

Looking to put a tower on my 2008 prostar 214. Anybody put a tower on the 214 and have advice to share? Order from local dealer?

I am really happy with my Mini-Tower .... although you may hit your head once or twice.

Also if you get the mini-tower and put speaker cans on it .... your engine hatch opens to the 1st position but cannot open all the way without separating the tower (only and issue for large service, etc)

That is my 214 on the right of the picture ... love the mini-tower with speakers on it ... looks sweet.

[eficalibrator]

Looking to put a tower on my 2008 prostar 214. Anybody put a tower on the 214 and have advice to share? Order from local dealer?

My boat was the template that New Dimension used to make their 214 tower. It has been great, fits perfect, and cost/weighs less than the OEM MC towers that look like they were cut from a giant piece of billet aluminum.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/eficalibrator/sets/72157627951446920

[JMLVMI]

My boat was the template that New Dimension used to make their 214 tower. It has been great, fits perfect, and cost/weighs less than the OEM MC towers that look like they were cut from a giant piece of billet aluminum.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/efical...57627951446920

Wow, that came out great...I'm not as huge of fan of the Zero Flex as some people are, so would be cool to find a towerless ZO 214 and put one of these on

[gsxrjtt]

Doing a platform mod for a customer today who I showed this thread to.. keep up the tips on these boats..

[JohnE]

My boat was the template that New Dimension used to make their 214 tower. It has been great, fits perfect, and cost/weighs less than the OEM MC towers that look like they were cut from a giant piece of billet aluminum.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/efical...57627951446920

I think that the ND is the best looking mini tower for that boat. That's what I'd put vs. factory mini.