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  • #31
    Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
    I can tell you, from personal experience, you don't want to use the Harold's method for anything other then shows. It's flat out too dangerous and slippery to use on a daily driver.
    I can tell you that someone took a good toss of my platform that was done with Harold's method on my X14 years ago. But if you are using Harold's method on the older style platforms with spaces in between the boards, there is definitely a bit more friction (similar to using small tiles on a shower floor) than on the newer platforms that are joined tightly.

    While I used #1's method and loved the original results, I will say that I prefer the Tommy Nation 75/25 results. Not sure how Kyle took credit, but I didn't review the links. I'll also add that #1 did not allow skis on his platform. I ski'd his boat and had to put my ski on my own platform which was tied up next to him. And if I wasn't on my own boat, I'd probably still be floating on lake wylie trying to get into my double boots. YMMV.
    Prior boats - (3) X14's, (3) Prostars, and a Tristar.

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    • #32
      Unless there are scratches to get out, skip the sanding. I also use starbrite cleaner and brightener. You can buy them individually, and not in the 3 pack. I use linseed oil/ mineral spirits. After you apply a coat, come back a half hour later and wipe off the excess. I've skipped the last step before, but the excess will leave a sticky/ tacky area behind.

      Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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      • #33
        Originally posted by MIskiboat View Post
        I use whatever they had at Home Depot or Lowe’s and seemed to work fine. I did need to do a 1/2 summer touch up and end of season redo but it keeps it nice.

        And the touch up is easy. Really redid the whole thing I guess but didn’t need much.
        Was that something like Watco, or an oil that stays wet, like SunBrite, etc?

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        • #34
          I haven't seen it done or mentioned, but I have a boat with Teak strips on the bow and gunwales for people to step on as they enter and I'm going to try using paste wax. The reason woods like Teak turn gray and 'dry out' is because the natural wax breaks down and washes away because of Sunlight- I might use Bee's Wax since it's normally outside and exposed to light and air, anyway.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by jcnst1 View Post
            Great, thanks for the quick reply! I noticed earlier in the thread, some said to NOT use a sealer.....what is the issue with a sealer vs using oils?
            If you're referring to a finish that dries/cures to make a harder coating that's like plastic, the reason that causes problems is due to the trapping of water in the wood fibers, which leads to rot and mold growth.

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            • #36
              I've had Tropical Teak sealer but plan to strip it this year and go the oil route. My container of sealer ran out for my annual touch up purposes, so it's a good time to switch. The sealer served me well over the years but I didn't like the orangish color of it.

              In hindsight I would have just gone with one coat and touched up from there. The first coat looked great and showed the natural wood color. I tried the Harold approach, and each coat (followed by sanding) gave the teak more of an orange look.

              I didn't have problems with mold, but I keep my boat in the garage where it dries out pretty well after each use.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by JimN View Post
                Was that something like Watco, or an oil that stays wet, like SunBrite, etc?


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                • #38
                  What do you guys do with left over mixture of linseed / mineral oil to properly dispose of? Not the rags, but any actual liquid remaining?


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  • #39
                    I mixed in a spaghetti sauce jar. Then poured into small aluminum pie plate (Weber grill drip pan) for use, don’t pour too much....
                    I’m guessing the jar full will do the platform 5-6 times?

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by jcnst1 View Post
                      What do you guys do with left over mixture of linseed / mineral oil to properly dispose of? Not the rags, but any actual liquid remaining?


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                      If your area has hazardous waste collection, call and ask- some have events or permanent locations where people can take this kind of stuff to them for disposal. You can pour it onto waste paper or into a shallow pan to let it dry or save it for later. You can also soak it up with paper towels, then lay those out to dry.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by JimN View Post
                        If your area has hazardous waste collection, call and ask- some have events or permanent locations where people can take this kind of stuff to them for disposal. You can pour it onto waste paper or into a shallow pan to let it dry or save it for later. You can also soak it up with paper towels, then lay those out to dry.
                        Thanks

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                        • #42
                          I am following the multi step process posted earlier. Just a question, in step 3 through 6 when you sand it, do you get the platform wet? In step 2 he specifically states use water, so I am guessing no for 3-6, but wanted to ask.

                          Thanks

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by twh67 View Post
                            I am following the multi step process posted earlier. Just a question, in step 3 through 6 when you sand it, do you get the platform wet? In step 2 he specifically states use water, so I am guessing no for 3-6, but wanted to ask.

                            Thanks
                            In that process, the sanding is done wet. I just get a hose and wet it down, sand, rinse, sand, rinse, etc. Wet sanding is much easier than dry sanding, as it is easier to clean up and the sandpaper lasts a very long time. You'll get the feel for how much water to use. Let that dry, apply the Starbrite and let that dry (warm day in the sun helps), then repeat until you're happy.

                            I will say that I've done this process for years and never use a finer grit than 400, maybe even 220/240. His process that goes up to 600 or 1000 is meant as a show-quality. I've found that you don't need that for normal use.
                            Chris
                            2001 Prostar 209

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by cm02WS6 View Post

                              In that process, the sanding is done wet. I just get a hose and wet it down, sand, rinse, sand, rinse, etc. Wet sanding is much easier than dry sanding, as it is easier to clean up and the sandpaper lasts a very long time. You'll get the feel for how much water to use. Let that dry, apply the Starbrite and let that dry (warm day in the sun helps), then repeat until you're happy.

                              I will say that I've done this process for years and never use a finer grit than 400, maybe even 220/240. His process that goes up to 600 or 1000 is meant as a show-quality. I've found that you don't need that for normal use.
                              OK, so I did step one, wash with soap and water and let dry. Then step two, wet sand with 440 grit, and this is what it looks like. Do I need to sand it wilt a lower grit to get rid of some of old color? I bought the boat new in 2020 and this is the first time I took it off to sand. I just thought it would be a more uniform lighter color. The last two years just used Watco Teak Oil after washing it off on the lift. I have plenty of time, so I have no problem starting over.

                              Thoughts.


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                              • #45
                                I sand mine with 320 on a DA sander.

                                If you want it to be consistent then you need to get through the penetrated layer.

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