DIY pressure brake bleeder

[kwoody51]

Needing to bleed the brakes on the trailer and didn't feel like spending ~$80+ for a motive tank and the adapter for the trailer. DIY to the rescue!

Total cost ~$30 and should be just as good, if not better than Motive (due to the air line coupler). Who knows if the longevity will be the same! The tank and gauge were only ~$10 so worst case I'll get a new tank if in a few years

Hopefully the pics speak for themselves, but let me know if you have questions. All the parts #'s, from HD, I used are shown save for the air couplers fittings and hose clamps. The gauge and tank are from Menards. $6 for the tank and $3 for the back mount gauge.

[Skyskiguy]

Your Reliable actuator is still working?!

[kwoody51]

As far as I can tell!

When it goes will replace with electric over hydraulic actuator.

[gweaver]

So what's the process for bleeding? I was looking at my trailer the other day and can't figure out how to bleed the brakes. I take it the pump is for pressurizing the master cylinder, and the parts you posted all make sense, but the actual process is a mystery to me. Pressurize the master cylinder and then just open the bleed fittings on the calipers? Doesn't the mc need to be compressed, like bleeding the brakes on a vehicle?
G

[kwoody51]

Pressurize the MC, with the tank, and open bleeder at each wheel, that's it! You put brake fluid in the tank and it transfers over as the fluid is leaving the bleeder keeping your MC mostly full.

A car, like the trailer, just uses the mechanical advantage of the tounge or pedal to pressurize the fluid from the MC. These pressure tank system act like you are pressing the pedal or tounge but allow you to keep the pressure on and not have to open and close the bleeder or pump the tounge. Super slick!

[gweaver]

Very cool. Going to have to build one before too long. Just did the brakes on my truck, time flush/bleed trailer brakes. Going to have to figure out how to get under the trailer- doesn't look like there's much room there. Maybe I can back part way up on the sidewalk so the whole thing's sitting at an angle- should give me enough room to crawl under. :/
G

[Ken]

Nice DIY project. How do you keep air from entering the hose/MC on initial start up? Just wondering as i need to do mine as well. I was thinking of using my oil extractor for the Sea Doos and sucking the brake fluid from the bleeder end and just keep refilling the MC before running out. Thanks.

[FrankSchwab]

Believe it or not, I have the same sprayer tank and most of the same fittings sitting in my garage because I intended to build almost exactly what you've got. Looks like you did a good job.

[CruisinGA]

I was thinking of using my oil extractor for the Sea Doos and sucking the brake fluid from the bleeder end and just keep refilling the MC before running out. Thanks.

Not a bad idea, but I'd be concerned about sucking air through the bleeder threads once you've cracked them. Might work OK but what the OP posted is simple enough so I'd stick with that and have a better chance of keeping air out.

[bcd]

I tried that on my truck last year, but couldn't get it to seal around the fill port on the master cylinder.

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[bcd]

The sprayer method, not the oil extractor method

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[kwoody51]

Nice DIY project. How do you keep air from entering the hose/MC on initial start up? Just wondering as i need to do mine as well. I was thinking of using my oil extractor for the Sea Doos and sucking the brake fluid from the bleeder end and just keep refilling the MC before running out. Thanks.

I plan to 'prime' the hose with fluid by pumping the tank before putting the fitting over the MC res. Even if some air gets into the line from the sprayer tank it's not a problem as the purpose of the tank is to pressurize and refill the MC res. The fluid in the res will ensure no air gets into the lines even if there is a pocket of air 'above'.

[kwoody51]

The sprayer method, not the oil extractor method

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When/ if I use this on a vehicle system I plan to get a spare res cap and just add to hose barb fitting to it. This should ensure a nice uniform seal. May have to add a clamp or wrap a strap to keep the cap from lifting when under pressure.

[ahhudgins]

Not a bad idea, but I'd be concerned about sucking air through the bleeder threads once you've cracked them. Might work OK but what the OP posted is simple enough so I'd stick with that and have a better chance of keeping air out.

I bought the hand held vacuum pump so I could bleed my trailer brakes by myself, but after still seeing air bubbles in the line after 2 bottles of fluid, I knew that I was pulling air around the threads. Being OCD, I did it the old fashion way and got my wife to operate the bleeders while I worked the actuator. All you need is a screw driver...and a wife who doesn't mind laying under the trailer.

[kwoody51]

If your brake system doesn't leak today there is no way a pressure bleed system will introduce air through a fitting.

You are pushing the fluid out, just like it does when you apply the tounge. No risk of air entry!