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Back In A MC! A Few Questions

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  • Back In A MC! A Few Questions

    Hey gang! I had a 1989 Tristar 190 Open Bow which I sold about eight years ago. Since then I've started a family and spent my time on other hobbies, but also shared ownership of a Bayliner with my wife's brother. Last year I started skiing with a buddy who has an early '90's Nautique and had a ton of fun.

    After watching the market last fall and this spring, I just picket up a '92 Prostar 190 with a Velvet Drive. According to the seller, it was a promo boat for a year, and he bought it with 80 hours in it in the fall of '92. So, essentially a one owner boat. Now has 740 hours on it.

    It is in great shape, but as with any boat this age, there are a few projects to be tackled. Immediate stuff:

    -Replace trailer roller
    -Oil change (Motorcraft FL1A is on it's way, plan to use VR1 20w50)
    -Trans fluid change (Dex III?)
    -One of the speedos doesn't work -- where to start diagnosing?
    -Gas guage doesn't work -- where to start diagnosing?
    -The Silent Master has a leak on both sides close to where the hose clamps on, and the drain plug on the bottom of the muffler is stripped. I plan to try fiberglass repair on the leaks, not sure what to do to address the stripped drain plug. Any recommendations?
    -The drain plug under the engine must have been left in as I can't get it loose by hand. Going to try to get the bilge totally dry (it's wet from the leaks in the exhaust during the water test) and put some penetrating oil on it.
    -Trailer brakes are non functioning. The actuator can be moved back and forth with one finger... I'm towing with a Sequoia and am fine without the brakes, but it's very unsettling to have a shock every time you accelerate or slow. Thinking about removing the actuator and bolting on a new non brake coupler. I'd need to drill the holes to bolt one on. Thoughts?
    -Trailer has Bearing Buddies. I've never had them before--I pulled the cap and the grease looks clean but is thin. Is that normal?

    Long term projects:
    -Replace the Mastercraft decals
    -Sand the varnish off of the platform and oil oil oil it up
    -Add a stereo--it doesn't have one at all

    Most of these projects have lots of discussions on this board to reference--but any feedback is welcomed! Can't wait to take my first set behind the boat, and hopefully get my kids, 5 and 7, up on skis on the boom this summer.
    Last edited by PeterAK; 05-18-2018, 12:34 PM.

  • #2
    Sorry I will not be of help with your questions but, put up some pics! Congratulations on the new ride! Love to see the before and after of new Logos.

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    • #3
      thanks
      Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-18-2018, 05:49 PM.
      93 190
      (safe click)

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      • #4






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        • #5






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          • #6
            Congrats and welcome back.

            The PS guys will chime in with more specific expertise, but a few quickies:

            1) Agreed with new roller, oil, trans fluids. Maybe the same with impeller, winch strap, hoses, belts, trailer bearings, tires depending upon service records and condition.

            2) Gauges: you might solve both with new speedo pickup at transom and new fuel pump, others replace gauges as well which seem to be available on TT, mc parts depot, skiers choice, great lakes skipper, etc.

            3) try to fiberglass repair the mufflers, otherwise same for replacement online above

            4) PB Blaster and wrench to remove drain plug, possible tap and dye new threads or replace entire assembly. Brass is soft so go slowly.

            5) Consider new actuator, there are threads here for DIY replacement. Spring is shot. I'd rather have trailer brakes than none, even in a lighter tow rig as it helps keep the trailer load behind your tow vehicle underway.

            6) Bearing buddies work well by just pressing extra grease into the bearings and races with spring loaded function. Replace with new grease, or consider new bearing buddies with fresh grease.

            7) Decals. Great Lakes Skipper has many as do others online.

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            • #7
              Skip fixing the speedo and pick up a GPS one, then you really know the speed. Boat looks great! Welcome to mcocd time!

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              • #8
                Disregard if you already know, but in the boom picture, something is not right. Boom is either bent when it shouldn't be, or perhaps not inserted all the way.

                Also - The cable connects to the Trailering U Bolt, not the top lift ring.

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                • #9
                  For oil, I think people normally use 15W-40 rather than 20W-50 unless I'm missing something special about a 1992, but not sure if that matters. Personally I use Valvoline Premium Blue HD Diesel 15W-40, but Rotella/Pennzoil/etc equivalents are all good.

                  For gauges, (as I haven't updated yet either) before you try anything drastic, get yourself some DeOXIT and spray/clean the contacts on the backs of your speedo and fuel gauges and see if that helps. Our speedo was jumping around and stopped working before and that made it work perfectly again. The fuel gauge is never super accurate, but it might help it get a reading? Worth a shot as it's 5 minutes and dirt cheap. If it doesn't work, there's some great parts places listed by moose.

                  Bearing buddies, as long as it's not making weird noises and the oil/grease/whatever you call it looks clean, I don't think there's any problems. Someone else is probably more qualified than me to talk about that though, so take that with a grain of salt.

                  Drain plug, is the plug itself stripped or where the plug screws into the boat? If it's just the plug, you could probably find a new one fairly easily.
                  Tim
                  2021 Lone Star MasterBash
                  Ohio State Engineering - Go Bucks
                  1998 MC MariStar 225VRS
                  1995 MC ProStar 205
                  ISO MC 205V/XStar/X2/X1

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by kyfooter View Post
                    Disregard if you already know, but in the boom picture, something is not right. Boom is either bent when it shouldn't be, or perhaps not inserted all the way.

                    Also - The cable connects to the Trailering U Bolt, not the top lift ring.
                    Thanks--I've never used a boom before, so I appreciate the comments. The handle part of the boom does have a bend just before it inserts into the part that attaches to the pylon. It didn't seem unusual, but I'll take a close look to make sure that's the way it should be and it is not bent.

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                    • #11
                      For Decals when you get to it...
                      Original- https://greatlakesskipper.com/catalo...ft+decals&cat=
                      Something a little more sexy: https://domedlettering.com/create/registration-numbers/


                      That vessel looks solid, good for you vacating that death sentence with Nautique

                      BTW, where are you in Sconnie? Here in Delafield on Nagawicka...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tmothy07 View Post
                        For oil, I think people normally use 15W-40 rather than 20W-50 unless I'm missing something special about a 1992, but not sure if that matters. Personally I use Valvoline Premium Blue HD Diesel 15W-40, but Rotella/Pennzoil/etc equivalents are all good.

                        For gauges, (as I haven't updated yet either) before you try anything drastic, get yourself some DeOXIT and spray/clean the contacts on the backs of your speedo and fuel gauges and see if that helps. Our speedo was jumping around and stopped working before and that made it work perfectly again. The fuel gauge is never super accurate, but it might help it get a reading? Worth a shot as it's 5 minutes and dirt cheap. If it doesn't work, there's some great parts places listed by moose.

                        Bearing buddies, as long as it's not making weird noises and the oil/grease/whatever you call it looks clean, I don't think there's any problems. Someone else is probably more qualified than me to talk about that though, so take that with a grain of salt.

                        Drain plug, is the plug itself stripped or where the plug screws into the boat? If it's just the plug, you could probably find a new one fairly easily.
                        Thanks for the comments. I'll try cleaning all the connections at the gages. The drain that seems stripped is the small on on the bottom of the muffler. Need to pull it all the way out and examine the threads, as I discovered it was stripped when I tried to tighten it to make the drip stop after the water test. The plug in the bottom of the boat is the one that isn't budging.

                        Regarding oil--I did some reading and found quite a few people running 20w50 in this engine, that's the only reason I made that initial plan.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wicanefan View Post
                          For Decals when you get to it...
                          Original- https://greatlakesskipper.com/catalo...ft+decals&cat=
                          Something a little more sexy: https://domedlettering.com/create/registration-numbers/


                          That vessel looks solid, good for you vacating that death sentence with Nautique

                          BTW, where are you in Sconnie? Here in Delafield on Nagawicka...
                          Thanks. Decals will probably be a fall project. I live in Elm Grove and we go on Pine Lake locally. Last fall we bought a small cabin in Waupaca that is a major fixer upper and I've been plugging away to make it ready for summer. The boat will probably go back and forth this summer.

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                          • #14
                            quite a few people running 20w50 in this engine
                            That's true, but I don't know why so many use such a thick oil. If it was a highly stressed, high speed, automotive engine running in the desert at 100 degrees the 20w-50 would be OK, but IMO there's no need to use anything other than a 10w-40. I use Rotella 15w-40 because of recommendations on this forum, and it's also cheaper than others when you buy it by the gallon. (on sale for typically $12)

                            I bought some Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 on sale for $12/gal, so that's what is going in next time.

                            Almost any quality oil will work great as long as it's changed regularly and you don't let it sit all winter.

                            YMMV

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                            • #15
                              Hi Peter! I just restored a 1992 Prostar 190.

                              What I did:

                              All rubber (engine, seals /gaskets, console rubber, anything that was rubber) replaced. All fluids, replaced. Bottom gelcoat, and touch-ups, done.

                              Impeller, replaced. Bilge pump, replaced (it cracked on the upper from just being stored for years)

                              Engine had 400 hours on it, but it had been dry stored for years. Also, tranny fluid after filled showed a quart low. THIS IS A 3 QUART TRANNY! Lol, remember that!

                              I have 20 hours on it, but she is a beast!!!!!

                              Congrats on a great buy, that has 0 electronics, so you can do it all yourself!

                              Pics look awesome, here are mine:
                              Attached Files
                              "Who wants a Moustache ride?"

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