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  • #16
    yes, the Planet Audio is the one going away, being replaced. as to the loose wires, those were secured prior to the sound shop troubleshooting but since we were replacing amp, they left dangling instead of re-attaching.

    from what everyone has said, there shouldn't be a heat issue unless anchored and really pushing the amp hard ... which would rarely, if ever, be the case for us (my son my be a different story though). Going with the newer technology, there should be less heat output with similar size amp ... and I should really just be looking at replacing the one amp while leaving the other one (working) one alone until it starts causing issues.

    sound about right?

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    • #17
      is there enough of a difference or a reason to use Marine versus Auto amps?

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      • #18
        I can tell you that planet audio amp is complete crap . Your issues are precisely why you need to spend some coin here ion a decent amp. With those speakers run together it’s most likely giving that amp a 2ohm load on each channel and the sub bridged makes the setup power hungry as all heck. So every time that sub hits it’s probably sending the amp into protect mode or burned it up. It’s also underpowered for that setup for sure .

        Those Are the Skylon Rubicon 250 speaker. I don’t have the exact specs but off memory those want at least 125 watts per speaker or 250 per set in this case to get them performing. Again I can’t femember the specs , maybe somewhere here has them , or you could probably call Skylon and get them. You’d need to let them know they’re the double pod version. We need to know the ohm rating here to pair the proper amp. Because it’s a double pod I can’t remeber if it’s a 4 ohm load for each set or a 2ohm . That’s makes a huge difference in how you need to power them.
        CURRENT: 2008 SANTE 210 w NSS

        2000 Mastercraft Xstar
        2004,2005 Ski Centurion Avalanche C4
        2003, Ski Centurion Cyclone
        99,2000,2001, 2002 Ski Centurion Elite V/Hurricane/lightning
        88 2001 Nautique

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        • #19
          Im 99% those are a pair of 4 ohm drivers, and wired in parallel as swatguy stated. Thats one reason im opposed to running 4 in-boats, 4 towers and a woofer, on a single 5 or 6 chnl. Its also why I would consider rearranging things, and pair the woofer and in-boats on an amp, and putting the 4 towers on their own.

          If the budget permits, I would replace both PA amps, but if not, then yes, keep the one thats working, replace the one thats suspect.

          There is no question that a marinized amp offers advantages that lead to a longer life in a humid environment. Now thats not to say that a true car amp will not serve for many seasons.

          Knowing the realistic wattage of the outgoing amp, will help you maintain or upgrade, the performance the system.

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          • #20
            this is why I came here to ask ... I figured ya'll would know the possible best path forward. I am not trying to scrimp on price, I am just not knowledgeable in this field.

            If I would just be replacing the amp giving issues, it appears I would need at least a 125Wx4 to just drive the tower speakers? does that mean I would need to put in another amp (#3) to drive the sub? or go with a 5 channel with the 5th channel pushing the sub if I can find one with the 5th channel big enough?

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            • #21
              My suggestions would be a Wet Sounds HTX-2 for the tower speakers and an HTX-6 for woofer and in-boats.

              Now, out of the JL camp, the only viable 2 chnl, is $1100 and the marine version is not out yet. The only other choice is the M200.2. The M600/6 is an easy choice for the in-boats.

              Out of the Memphis line, their only marine 2 chnl is a little pocket amp. Not really any better wattage wise, then the M200/2. They offer a non-marine 2 chnl thats still only going to net 75W to each of the 4 tower drivers. Id still go with the JL M200/2 over that one. They offer a marine 5 chnl that would likely fit for the in-boats and woofer.

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              • #22
                I am in 100% agreement with MLA.

                Since your doing it,you mine as we take the time and do it right , having the inboats and sub seperated from the tower is very useful and pragmatic.

                If you could find a used Wetsounds Syn 4 and a Wetsounds Syn 2 that would be ideal.
                Last edited by swatguy; 03-26-2019, 05:35 PM.
                CURRENT: 2008 SANTE 210 w NSS

                2000 Mastercraft Xstar
                2004,2005 Ski Centurion Avalanche C4
                2003, Ski Centurion Cyclone
                99,2000,2001, 2002 Ski Centurion Elite V/Hurricane/lightning
                88 2001 Nautique

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
                  is there enough of a difference or a reason to use Marine versus Auto amps?
                  Marine electronics often have a coating that prevents moisture from being a problem unless water drips or is poured directly in and even then, some items don't care. Some equipment, like head units, are sealed well enough that you can hose it off and it will still work. These are usually listed as IPxx66, or something similar. The chart below shows what it can withstand-

                  https://www.cincinnati-test.com/imag...%20Table1b.jpg

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by MLA View Post
                    My suggestions would be a Wet Sounds HTX-2 for the tower speakers and an HTX-6 for woofer and in-boats.

                    Now, out of the JL camp, the only viable 2 chnl, is $1100 and the marine version is not out yet. The only other choice is the M200.2. The M600/6 is an easy choice for the in-boats.

                    Out of the Memphis line, their only marine 2 chnl is a little pocket amp. Not really any better wattage wise, then the M200/2. They offer a non-marine 2 chnl thats still only going to net 75W to each of the 4 tower drivers. Id still go with the JL M200/2 over that one. They offer a marine 5 chnl that would likely fit for the in-boats and woofer.
                    appears the HTX-2 is [email protected] or [email protected] which would still only be providing 37.2W or 75W for each speaker on the tower?

                    and the HTX-6 for the in cabin & subwoofer ... it appears to be [email protected], [email protected] ohm or [email protected] ... I believe the subwoofer would need the most but not sure how to split all that out?

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                    • #25
                      will be doing a bit more research throughout the day from the comments above ...

                      but the one good amp, if I were to not replace it, and switch the tower speakers over to that one ... replace the bad amp with one to drive the interior cabin speakers along with the subwoofer ... does that make more sense?

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                      • #26
                        duplicate

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
                          appears the HTX-2 is [email protected] or [email protected] which would still only be providing 37.2W or 75W for each speaker on the tower?

                          and the HTX-6 for the in cabin & subwoofer ... it appears to be [email protected], [email protected] ohm or [email protected] ... I believe the subwoofer would need the most but not sure how to split all that out?


                          You are misunderstanding how the specs on amplifiers work. Your power numbers are way off.


                          An HTX -2 to the tower speakers would provide 150 watts per speaker for the tower speakers. The way the speakers are currently wired , the speakers show a 2ohm load at the amp for each pairing. There are 2 channels on the amp. 300x2 @2ohms means each channel is supplying 300watts at 2ohm. That 300 watts gets split evenly between each speaker pair , thus giving 150watts to each speaker . Which would be ideal for those skylons. You’ll hear this no problem at surf and wake speed.

                          The htx-6 would give 100watts per channel at 6 channels. So 4 inboats would each have their own channel , each getting 100watts a piece leaving two channels open for you sub. You then “bridge” the subwoofer on the remaining open two channels ( the instructions will show you how ) and that sub bridged will now be getting 300watts . The 3000X3 @ 4ohms means if you bridged each pair of connections(taking channels from 6 down to 3 by bridging) each bridged channel will provide 300 watts



                          This amp pair is a solid solid solid baseline and plenty of power. The high quality power and pretty much minimal chance of overheating. The other thing not mentioned is the benefit of pairing the sub and inboats together and the tower separate. Depending on your head units amount of pre amp outputs , you can then adjust the fade or balance to lower the inboats to a comfortable level while you keep the tower speakers cranking. While doing that through the head unit is doable it’s also cumbersome being the head unit is located in the glove box. The most simple , cost effective and convenient way to get this at your fingertips as the driver is to use a PAC-1 comtroller in-line with you cabin and sub amp. You would then be able to control the volume of the inboats and sub separate from the tower speakers right at your fingertips
                          CURRENT: 2008 SANTE 210 w NSS

                          2000 Mastercraft Xstar
                          2004,2005 Ski Centurion Avalanche C4
                          2003, Ski Centurion Cyclone
                          99,2000,2001, 2002 Ski Centurion Elite V/Hurricane/lightning
                          88 2001 Nautique

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Looks like Swatguy got you squared away on the power distribution.

                            Dont worry at this, how to make it all work. Who ever you purchase through, hopefully an authorized dealer, can and should help you with those install and tuning details once you get to that point.

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                            • #29
                              I love reading stereo threads now, MLA really helped me understand more last week and I did a lot of research on my own. After spending 2 days scratching my head it did become apparent to me that with the JL M series amps your possible setups are limited. In my case there wasn't a good way to get a audible power increase without bridging channels and rewiring tower speakers. I'd definitely look into some of the wet sound amps these guys are recommending, again like the JL stuff they are a little more expensive but there's a reason that JL and wetsound are the most common/reputable audio equipment in the marine market.

                              I ended up sticking with JL but for the most part my system will remain under powered, I'm just going to leave it be instead of spending a good amount of coin and put the money towards other projects I had in mind for this year.

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                              • #30
                                great stuff guys!!! that was simplified enough that I understand what you are saying!

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