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  • swatguy
    replied
    Yea that’s precisely the reason I asked . I am not sure how those got wired to an 8ohm load. I mean I know how they are ( in series ) , but the normal configuration ( 2 4ohm speakers wired in parallel) should’ve been what those read.

    The only way the Memphis amp remotely comes close to being able to power those is if you actually use all 4 channels and wire each speaker/driver to its own channel. That, could work , not ideal but usable . That gives you 75watts to each driver. With an 8ohm load you’re not getting anywhere near the required power no matter how you configure them on the Memphis amp. Wiring each set of pods in parallel, and then finding a decent (2)channel amp is the optimal configuration. You could find a midrange (2)channel D class,with proper power for 180.00 if you needed to stay on a budget.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    Originally posted by swatguy View Post
    That’s great choice on the amp. How do you have the tower speakers wired to the Memphis 4 Channel?
    that's a total kludge as the stereo guy checked the tower speakers and they appear to be wired as 8 ohm, his meter was reading 7.7 to about 9.1 and needless to say, all three guys at that shop were trying to figure that out since they should be 4 ohm speakers. I didn't check to see how he connected those, so not totally sure. Why I suspect I will be upgrading that amp and speakers at some point in the not to distant future.

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  • swatguy
    replied
    That’s great choice on the amp. How do you have the tower speakers wired to the Memphis 4 Channel?
    Last edited by swatguy; 05-07-2019, 06:15 AM.

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  • TolCarMan
    replied
    Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
    update ... ordered the JL Audio 700w 5 channel marine amp, switched the interior cabin speakers and subwoofer to that amp and moved the tower speakers over to the Memphis 600w 4 channel (the good amp). After a little tuning, sounds great! I know I am probably going to need to update the "good" amp at some point and possibly update the speakers on the tower but the shear costs will have to do in stages as my financial adviser (wife) recommended we space it out.

    thanks for all the input and PMs ... very very helpful and cleared my mind on path forward.
    Good decision! I swear by JL everything... It's all I run in my boats!

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    update ... ordered the JL Audio 700w 5 channel marine amp, switched the interior cabin speakers and subwoofer to that amp and moved the tower speakers over to the Memphis 600w 4 channel (the good amp). After a little tuning, sounds great! I know I am probably going to need to update the "good" amp at some point and possibly update the speakers on the tower but the shear costs will have to do in stages as my financial adviser (wife) recommended we space it out.

    thanks for all the input and PMs ... very very helpful and cleared my mind on path forward.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    great stuff guys!!! that was simplified enough that I understand what you are saying!

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  • dmbeck
    replied
    I love reading stereo threads now, MLA really helped me understand more last week and I did a lot of research on my own. After spending 2 days scratching my head it did become apparent to me that with the JL M series amps your possible setups are limited. In my case there wasn't a good way to get a audible power increase without bridging channels and rewiring tower speakers. I'd definitely look into some of the wet sound amps these guys are recommending, again like the JL stuff they are a little more expensive but there's a reason that JL and wetsound are the most common/reputable audio equipment in the marine market.

    I ended up sticking with JL but for the most part my system will remain under powered, I'm just going to leave it be instead of spending a good amount of coin and put the money towards other projects I had in mind for this year.

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  • MLA
    replied
    Looks like Swatguy got you squared away on the power distribution.

    Dont worry at this, how to make it all work. Who ever you purchase through, hopefully an authorized dealer, can and should help you with those install and tuning details once you get to that point.

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  • swatguy
    replied
    Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
    appears the HTX-2 is [email protected] or [email protected] which would still only be providing 37.2W or 75W for each speaker on the tower?

    and the HTX-6 for the in cabin & subwoofer ... it appears to be [email protected], [email protected] ohm or [email protected] ... I believe the subwoofer would need the most but not sure how to split all that out?


    You are misunderstanding how the specs on amplifiers work. Your power numbers are way off.


    An HTX -2 to the tower speakers would provide 150 watts per speaker for the tower speakers. The way the speakers are currently wired , the speakers show a 2ohm load at the amp for each pairing. There are 2 channels on the amp. 300x2 @2ohms means each channel is supplying 300watts at 2ohm. That 300 watts gets split evenly between each speaker pair , thus giving 150watts to each speaker . Which would be ideal for those skylons. You’ll hear this no problem at surf and wake speed.

    The htx-6 would give 100watts per channel at 6 channels. So 4 inboats would each have their own channel , each getting 100watts a piece leaving two channels open for you sub. You then “bridge” the subwoofer on the remaining open two channels ( the instructions will show you how ) and that sub bridged will now be getting 300watts . The 3000X3 @ 4ohms means if you bridged each pair of connections(taking channels from 6 down to 3 by bridging) each bridged channel will provide 300 watts



    This amp pair is a solid solid solid baseline and plenty of power. The high quality power and pretty much minimal chance of overheating. The other thing not mentioned is the benefit of pairing the sub and inboats together and the tower separate. Depending on your head units amount of pre amp outputs , you can then adjust the fade or balance to lower the inboats to a comfortable level while you keep the tower speakers cranking. While doing that through the head unit is doable it’s also cumbersome being the head unit is located in the glove box. The most simple , cost effective and convenient way to get this at your fingertips as the driver is to use a PAC-1 comtroller in-line with you cabin and sub amp. You would then be able to control the volume of the inboats and sub separate from the tower speakers right at your fingertips

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    duplicate

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    will be doing a bit more research throughout the day from the comments above ...

    but the one good amp, if I were to not replace it, and switch the tower speakers over to that one ... replace the bad amp with one to drive the interior cabin speakers along with the subwoofer ... does that make more sense?

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    Originally posted by MLA View Post
    My suggestions would be a Wet Sounds HTX-2 for the tower speakers and an HTX-6 for woofer and in-boats.

    Now, out of the JL camp, the only viable 2 chnl, is $1100 and the marine version is not out yet. The only other choice is the M200.2. The M600/6 is an easy choice for the in-boats.

    Out of the Memphis line, their only marine 2 chnl is a little pocket amp. Not really any better wattage wise, then the M200/2. They offer a non-marine 2 chnl thats still only going to net 75W to each of the 4 tower drivers. Id still go with the JL M200/2 over that one. They offer a marine 5 chnl that would likely fit for the in-boats and woofer.
    appears the HTX-2 is [email protected] or [email protected] which would still only be providing 37.2W or 75W for each speaker on the tower?

    and the HTX-6 for the in cabin & subwoofer ... it appears to be [email protected], [email protected] ohm or [email protected] ... I believe the subwoofer would need the most but not sure how to split all that out?

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  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
    is there enough of a difference or a reason to use Marine versus Auto amps?
    Marine electronics often have a coating that prevents moisture from being a problem unless water drips or is poured directly in and even then, some items don't care. Some equipment, like head units, are sealed well enough that you can hose it off and it will still work. These are usually listed as IPxx66, or something similar. The chart below shows what it can withstand-

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  • swatguy
    replied
    I am in 100% agreement with MLA.

    Since your doing it,you mine as we take the time and do it right , having the inboats and sub seperated from the tower is very useful and pragmatic.

    If you could find a used Wetsounds Syn 4 and a Wetsounds Syn 2 that would be ideal.
    Last edited by swatguy; 03-26-2019, 05:35 PM.

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  • MLA
    replied
    My suggestions would be a Wet Sounds HTX-2 for the tower speakers and an HTX-6 for woofer and in-boats.

    Now, out of the JL camp, the only viable 2 chnl, is $1100 and the marine version is not out yet. The only other choice is the M200.2. The M600/6 is an easy choice for the in-boats.

    Out of the Memphis line, their only marine 2 chnl is a little pocket amp. Not really any better wattage wise, then the M200/2. They offer a non-marine 2 chnl thats still only going to net 75W to each of the 4 tower drivers. Id still go with the JL M200/2 over that one. They offer a marine 5 chnl that would likely fit for the in-boats and woofer.

    Leave a comment:

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