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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    this is why I came here to ask ... I figured ya'll would know the possible best path forward. I am not trying to scrimp on price, I am just not knowledgeable in this field.

    If I would just be replacing the amp giving issues, it appears I would need at least a 125Wx4 to just drive the tower speakers? does that mean I would need to put in another amp (#3) to drive the sub? or go with a 5 channel with the 5th channel pushing the sub if I can find one with the 5th channel big enough?

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  • MLA
    replied
    Im 99% those are a pair of 4 ohm drivers, and wired in parallel as swatguy stated. Thats one reason im opposed to running 4 in-boats, 4 towers and a woofer, on a single 5 or 6 chnl. Its also why I would consider rearranging things, and pair the woofer and in-boats on an amp, and putting the 4 towers on their own.

    If the budget permits, I would replace both PA amps, but if not, then yes, keep the one thats working, replace the one thats suspect.

    There is no question that a marinized amp offers advantages that lead to a longer life in a humid environment. Now thats not to say that a true car amp will not serve for many seasons.

    Knowing the realistic wattage of the outgoing amp, will help you maintain or upgrade, the performance the system.

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  • swatguy
    replied
    I can tell you that planet audio amp is complete crap . Your issues are precisely why you need to spend some coin here ion a decent amp. With those speakers run together it’s most likely giving that amp a 2ohm load on each channel and the sub bridged makes the setup power hungry as all heck. So every time that sub hits it’s probably sending the amp into protect mode or burned it up. It’s also underpowered for that setup for sure .

    Those Are the Skylon Rubicon 250 speaker. I don’t have the exact specs but off memory those want at least 125 watts per speaker or 250 per set in this case to get them performing. Again I can’t femember the specs , maybe somewhere here has them , or you could probably call Skylon and get them. You’d need to let them know they’re the double pod version. We need to know the ohm rating here to pair the proper amp. Because it’s a double pod I can’t remeber if it’s a 4 ohm load for each set or a 2ohm . That’s makes a huge difference in how you need to power them.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    is there enough of a difference or a reason to use Marine versus Auto amps?

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    yes, the Planet Audio is the one going away, being replaced. as to the loose wires, those were secured prior to the sound shop troubleshooting but since we were replacing amp, they left dangling instead of re-attaching.

    from what everyone has said, there shouldn't be a heat issue unless anchored and really pushing the amp hard ... which would rarely, if ever, be the case for us (my son my be a different story though). Going with the newer technology, there should be less heat output with similar size amp ... and I should really just be looking at replacing the one amp while leaving the other one (working) one alone until it starts causing issues.

    sound about right?

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  • LDA6339
    replied
    Originally posted by MLA View Post
    With a brand like planet audio, i would take that 150x4 with a block of salt. Even if thats the 2 ohm x 4 spec, that means the tower drivers are only netting 75W rms each. At worst, that 600W is an unrealistic peak number for marketing, and RMS is likely half of that.
    I think the Planet Audio amp is on its way out anyways, if not- it probably should be.

    OP, you should just be able to swap amps once you identify which one you need and what fits the budget, there have been some great suggestions in the thread. I would definitely re route some wires, clean it up and make it look real good. That is how you will ensure you get the longest life out of your system.

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  • MLA
    replied
    With a brand like planet audio, i would take that 150x4 with a block of salt. Even if thats the 2 ohm x 4 spec, that means the tower drivers are only netting 75W rms each. At worst, that 600W is an unrealistic peak number for marketing, and RMS is likely half of that.

    Leave a comment:


  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
    wife confirmed only 4 speakers in cabin, 2 in bow, 1 under rear seat and 1 under side seat.

    closer picture of tower speakers.

    picture of amp with issues... Planet Audio RX4.300 - 150Wx4
    I would be surprised if those cables hadn't been yanked and jerked around by things put in the compartment- cables should ALWAYS be secured and out of the way of anything that could move nearby. Also, I see rusty screws, which means water was on anything that's in there- it's possible that the connections are corroded, not broken.

    The amp should be turned 90 degrees, whether this one stays, or not. Route the audio cables and speaker wires as high as possible and if the power wires come from below, use screw-down wire ties at 6" increments to make sure something can't grab the wires and stress the terminals.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    wife confirmed only 4 speakers in cabin, 2 in bow, 1 under rear seat and 1 under side seat.

    closer picture of tower speakers.

    picture of amp with issues... Planet Audio RX4.300 - 150Wx4
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by pmkkdx View Post
    '04 X2 (205V) original problem was we lost our sub and tower speakers (4x), late last summer. sometimes the sub would work but rarely or the tower would work but neither worked well at the same time. We thought we might be having heat issues since everything is contained in front of the passenger seating area under the glove box. I believe this is all OEM with the exception of one amp we replaced about 8 years ago (think that's the one with issues)

    They found one amp has issues with the RCA jacks (again, might be using the wrong terminology) with intermittent power. He finally used some kind of adapter from his phone to check each of the jacks to find which ones were going out.

    our options would be to replace the amp that is going out/bad RCA with a 3 channel (JL Audio or Memphis or ???) to drive tower & sub ... but wouldn't we still possibly run into a heat issue with having 2 amps in that closed area?

    the other option would be to go to a 5 channel (JL Audio or Memphis or ???) and only have the one amp that drives the sub, tower AND the speakers around the cabin.

    we are not needing anything to blow out windows, just listening to moderate level of tunes while cruising but my wife enjoys listening to music while she slalom skies ...

    pros & cons??? recommendations (keep it in layman's terms please)
    The amp(s) should have spacers behind the mounting flange, to allow air to pass behind and help with cooling. This has nothing to do with the RCA jacks, but it's good practice.

    The cables should enter from the bottom with an upward curve- water doesn't flow uphill and any moisture that gets on the cables will drip off.

    If the audio cables are from Monster Cable, this probably contributed to the problem- they have had problems with the outer ring being too tight and when the cable is inserted or removed, it can damage the jack. The jacks may be repairable by soldering the connections- this shouldn't be a reason to change the amp, IMO.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    thanks again!

    its very possible there is only 4x cabin speakers but I will verify ... those are still working great off the one good amp that is marked 150Wx4. This is the original that came in the boat when I got it back in 2009 and possibly could be what came from the factory when the boat was new.

    judging from when the guy at the shop was testing, the left 2 tower speakers are connected together to one channel, the right 2 tower speakers are connected together to another channel and the sub is connected to a third channel (or possibly bridged to channel 3 & 4?) of the second amp (that has issues). This one is a Planet Audio but not sure of size as I haven't found any marking on it. A friend & his son did the install replacing the original amp shortly after we got the boat, likely early summer of 2010

    my wife took a bunch of pictures last night to send to my son as he is also researching a recommendation. Of course, he uses the boat too occasionally and wants the moon but on my budget ... HA!

    let me see what my wife took pictures of ... stay tuned.

    Leave a comment:


  • swatguy
    replied
    Pretty sure but not positive those are DBot speakers or possibly diamond audio. A decent performance speaker from back in the day/original era of that boat .


    Guessing at minimum those are 100watts each. At least that is my recollection from a while back.

    Unless the previous owner mounted extras, the stock system in that boat is only (4 ) speakers . 2in the bow one under the passenger lounge and one on the rear bench located on driver side. If you do in fact have 6 inboard that makes things a little trickier amp wise.

    I wold assume the speakers on the tower are probably already wired in parallel. This means there is one positive and one negative wire heading to your amp per set rather than 2 pairs of wires ( totaling 8 connections at your amp )

    As MLA mentioned having your sub attached to the same amp as those tower speakers is really demanding on an amp . I could see an amp going into protect Mode/ shutting down trying to keep up with the power demand of pushing both. It wouldn’t take much.

    In order to ensure we would be giving you correct info we want to nail down the amount of interior speakers (4 or 6) as well as sub woofer model.
    Last edited by swatguy; 03-26-2019, 03:27 AM.

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  • bcd
    replied
    Class d are more efficient and don't generate as much heat. If you don't have those now, there are gains to be had. I had three amps in my 205v/x star when I had it. The only time I had heat issues is when I would pile a bunch of crap in the storage area and start covering up the amps.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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  • MLA
    replied
    the other option would be to go to a 5 channel (JL Audio or Memphis or ???) and only have the one amp that drives the sub, tower AND the speakers around the cabin.
    This route to me, seems counter intuitive to resolving a heat related issue. This places MORE load on a single amp, resulting in the amp working harder, producing more heat.

    IMO, I would rather have the in-boats and woofer paired, and towers on their own amp. reason being is that the tower and woofer zones seem to always be the hardest driven zones on a boat.

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  • pmkkdx
    replied
    maybe you can tell what kind and/or size speakers (at least maybe the cans) based on a few pictures.
    Attached Files

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