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89 prostar 190 indmar 351 thermostat issue?

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  • 89 prostar 190 indmar 351 thermostat issue?

    New to the forum. Just purchased an 89 prostar 190 2 weeks ago. Ran good the first weekend I used it. Would hiccup if you nailed it but I heard that's normal for these motors. This past weekend it ran good for about 20-30 minutes then seemed like it started missing then got to the point where it wouldn't run. I replaced the plugs distributor cap and rotor new fuel separator. Ran good for 15 minutes then back to missing. Noticed the temp was at 110 at idle could that play a role?

  • #2
    Originally posted by Chuckurban View Post
    New to the forum. Just purchased an 89 prostar 190 2 weeks ago. Ran good the first weekend I used it. Would hiccup if you nailed it but I heard that's normal for these motors.

    Wherever you heard that.... it is incorrect. Normal is that the 351w runs like a well-oiled Singer sewing machine. Temperature at idle is another topic (impeller, etc.). I'd take 110 deg. F all day long.

    This past weekend it ran good for about 20-30 minutes then seemed like it started missing then got to the point where it wouldn't run. I replaced the plugs distributor cap and rotor new fuel separator. Ran good for 15 minutes then back to missing. Noticed the temp was at 110 at idle could that play a role?

    I doubt it. You need to start with the basics and eliminate or correct symptoms as you go.

    My first suspect is either the carburetor or your ignition system.

    There is a large amount of information here on the forum. I suggest you read the related threads and become familiar with basic dos and don'ts and figure out your problem or better pinpoint the solution.

    So many variables to consider with your broad description.

    Lots of folks here can assist.

    $0.02

    .
    93 190
    (safe click)

    Comment


    • #3
      You can also start a Q&A post in this thread and find a place to open discussion.

      Keep it in this thread...don't go back and forth to your other identical thread.

      .
      93 190
      (safe click)

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah I didn't mean to post it twice trying to delete it. I did see some similar threads and viewed them. Still trying to figure this out thanks

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Chuckurban View Post
          Yeah I didn't mean to post it twice trying to delete it. I did see some similar threads and viewed them. Still trying to figure this out thanks
          So is the carb and ignition OEM?

          Is the fuel fresh?

          Fuel filter clean?

          Is the coil OEM?

          Do you have points or electronic ignition?

          Let's start here. There are several folks here that can assess and assist. I'll tell you what little I know.

          .
          93 190
          (safe click)

          Comment


          • #6
            I appreciate it. Carb and ignition are OEM

            The boat sat for all of last year and this year until I bought it. The guy left it with a full tank treated

            I havent checked the fuel filter I was just reading about those also. And I replaced the coil, cap and rotor, plugs and fuel separator at the same. It is points still

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Chuckurban View Post
              I appreciate it. Carb and ignition are OEM

              The boat sat for all of last year and this year until I bought it. The guy left it with a full tank treated

              I havent checked the fuel filter I was just reading about those also. And I replaced the coil, cap and rotor, plugs and fuel separator at the same. It is points still
              Good stuff...

              Fuel stabilizer is questionable (keep that in mind).

              Carb probably needs a rebuild but that too can be a generic answer, however never hurts to take that into consideration. They gum up over the years.

              One thing I always resort to is an ignition upgrade which includes; Pertronix electronic ignition module, Pertronix Flamethrower II 0.6 ohm epoxy-filled coil (much hotter than the OEM), new plug wires that are compatible with the electronic ignition (solid core wires are not recommended), and you have the new plugs already.

              .

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              Once you put in the EI upgrade (and by-pass your resistor), you should check the timing to make sure everything is in sync. (10 deg BTDC).

              A carb rebuild requires a correct rebuild kit, patience, and a good cleaning (at least a 24 hour soak). Verify you use the correct parts from the Trick Kit. There are a lot of choices and left over parts from the kit.

              Fuel filter can be an issue (obviously) but so can a dirty screen in the fuel cell on the fuel pick-up tube. If you decide to tackle that I can give you a few shortcuts to make that a fairly easy disassembly and reassembly. You do not have to remove the fuel cell. Make it easy on yourself with a tip on moving the fuel cell.

              Fuel lines can gum up....

              Make sure your electric choke is working properly. They can and do go bad.

              So I hate to focus on one thing alone or a lot of things in general, thus the assessment.

              These engines can also suffer from heat soak in certain conditions that match your description.

              Somewhere fuel or fire is becoming less available.

              All of the other maintenance and checks I have mentioned are worth their weight in gold as preventative maintenance and a trouble-free summer.

              Others here may weigh in and point to other recommendations.

              .
              Last edited by waterlogged882; 07-16-2019, 09:10 PM.
              93 190
              (safe click)

              Comment


              • #8
                I'll tell you what little I know.
                WL: Your modesty is overwhelming!
                Last edited by Miss Rita; 07-21-2019, 03:05 PM.

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                • #9
                  Ok we are going to order a rebuild kit for the carb and I'm going to change the fuel filter. Fired it up yesterday and had no issues at all. Thanks for the advice

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chuckurban View Post
                    Ok we are going to order a rebuild kit for the carb and I'm going to change the fuel filter. Fired it up yesterday and had no issues at all. Thanks for the advice
                    If you can contact the previous owner, ask how old the thermostat is. If they don't know, change it- knowing its condition can't hurt. Yes, running at 110 can cause poor performance and pumping the throttle will only increase the effect because it's already running rich and an engine isn't efficient at low temperatures. I would do this before a carb rebuild. I would also take a fuel sample and see if it's cloudy, has water droplets or other contamination.

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                    • #11
                      I have been talking to the previous owner but he couldbt remember. Its sat for a year and a half so I figured I would just replace it anyways that why I know it's new. Thanks for the response

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chuckurban View Post
                        Noticed the temp was at 110 at idle could that play a role?
                        110 Deg F at idle is nothing. Very low water flow and heat soak. Rev the engine and watch it go down at idle and up to 143 / 160 under operating conditions.
                        93 190
                        (safe click)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Temp should be at 143 or 160 depending on your thermostat once warmed up ... 110 indicates likely stuck open and that will impact performance a bit ...


                          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
                          Ski in snow, ski in water, and always have fun!

                          2008 Prostar 214 MCX
                          1995 Prostar 190 "Evil Minion"
                          Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

                          "Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
                          "Do you have Flake on that boat?"

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                          • #14
                            Also Andy soot lime residue on the transom after a day of running it? I used to run my 93 rich but I never had a hesitation when I would punch it ... loved it dialed in, did have electronic ignition on my GT40 even with the Holley carb...


                            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
                            Ski in snow, ski in water, and always have fun!

                            2008 Prostar 214 MCX
                            1995 Prostar 190 "Evil Minion"
                            Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

                            "Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
                            "Do you have Flake on that boat?"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah it's usually right around 143. It has only been a couple of times that I've noticed the 110. Did change anything and took the boat out yesterday and it ran fine so I'm lost haha

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