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2019 X-Star Ballast Fill Alternator Replacement

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  • #31
    I think I came up with a better solution to the problem, two aluminum spacers I found are .171"(11/64th) thick, very close to .`168". They will be placed between the alternator mounting bracket and the alternator. I prefer this as I I can leave the pulley alone, and much more "solid"
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    • #32
      That sounds like a great plan. I was originally thinking of a spacer but wouldn’t work with how mine mounts. Post some pics of it installed so it shows the differences.

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      • #33
        I'm very interested in your spacer idea, I'm hoping this will work with the 7.4 so pics would be of great help!

        Also, I'm not clear on what situations a different belt would be required...

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        • #34
          Have an alternator shop shim the pulley. That's what I did. Of course I bought the new alternator from them. I didn't buy an alternator over the internet for just this reason.
          2000 Prostar 205V

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          • #35
            Balmar is the way to go. Buy it from ron and he will also include the upgraded wire you need from the alternator to starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60DBfpSJ5Kw

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            • #36
              Originally posted by dpb185 View Post
              Have an alternator shop shim the pulley. That's what I did. Of course I bought the new alternator from them. I didn't buy an alternator over the internet for just this reason.
              at 42mm(.168") I don't have the thread engagement to "Shim the Pulley", Mechman included 3 spacers, but not enough.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by gwozhog View Post
                Balmar is the way to go. Buy it from ron and he will also include the upgraded wire you need from the alternator to starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60DBfpSJ5Kw
                Informative video. Wow that’s more than the mech man one at $800. So far my 150 amp one has been perfect for $125. New cables cost $40. Great option for 20 amps less

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                • #38
                  I picked up a new unit from skidim for my boat and installed new cables. Huge upgrade for me. I also looked at the mechman But couldn’t justify the costs.

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                  • #39
                    Mystic3D Bummer, I was hoping it would be plug and play... are you thinking you may have to shim both the pulley and bracket to make up the difference? Otherwise, hopefully the bracket shim idea does the trick.

                    On another note, is MC sourcing these from Ilmor?

                    Also FourFourty did you use the MC kit or an alternator from another supplier. (i.e. Ilmor, Mechman, Balmer, Rare Electrical from Amazon, etc.)?

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                    • #40
                      [QUOTE=jackpine;n2699138]Mystic3D Bummer, I was hoping it would be plug and play... are you thinking you may have to shim both the pulley and bracket to make up the difference? Otherwise, hopefully the bracket shim idea does the trick.

                      On another note, is MC sourcing these from Ilmor?

                      Ilmor sources the OEM 180A Alternator from Mechman, but apparently not the Pulley. I went back and forth with Mechmsn on pulley size.
                      Stock Ilmor 95A Pulley is 50 mm
                      Mechman Pulley is 55mm

                      The two aluminum spacers at .168" will be all that I need.

                      BTW the Ilmor 180A part number is 50H-0204, then the battery cables specified above would be plug and play. Doing it over again I would spend the $1,200 for the OEM one, as I have spent more time jscking around on this.

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                      • #41
                        Ha, I don't suppose MC would sell us just the pulley (at probably $300 a pop )?

                        At this point we couldn't be lucky enough to be able to swap the pulley from the old to the new at an alternator shop, or are they vastly different, mounting point, etc.?

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by jackpine View Post
                          Ha, I don't suppose MC would sell us just the pulley (at probably $300 a pop )?

                          At this point we couldn't be lucky enough to be able to swap the pulley from the old to the new at an alternator shop, or are they vastly different, mounting point, etc.?
                          The alternator shaft diameter(The one the pulley attaches to( is smaller on the Mechman Alternator. I ran the wires and was about to install it, There is also no grounding lug on the mechman, and the mounting bolts are 5/15 and 3/8 on the Mechman vs 10mm and 12mm on the Ilmor Alternator. Had also sourced longer bolts 12mm and 10mm to compensate for the spacers and thread engagement.(I realize this is not much(.168) but OCD Prevails)

                          So at this point $500 down the drain as Mechman doesn't allow returns, and I ordered the Ilmor 180A for $1,200.

                          I had the spacers ready to go, and am sure I could make the bolts work, and ground to the mounting point. Just too far off OEM for my taste.

                          So if anyone wants a New In Box(never mounted Mechman with AL Spacers) for a good price, PM me.
                          Last edited by Mystic3D; 02-23-2022, 07:32 AM.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Mystic3D View Post

                            The alternator shaft diameter(The one the pulley attaches to( is smaller on the Mechman Alternator. I ran the wires and was about to install it, There is also no grounding lug on the mechman, and the mounting bolts are 5/15 and 3/8 on the Mechman vs 10mm and 12mm on the Ilmor Alternator. Had also sourced longer bolts 12mm and 10mm to compensate for the spacers and thread engagement.(I realize this is not much(.168) but OCD Prevails)

                            So at this point $500 down the drain as Mechman doesn't allow returns, and I ordered the Ilmor 180A for $1,200.

                            I had the spacers ready to go, and am sure I could make the bolts work, and ground to the mounting point. Just too far off OEM for my taste.

                            So if anyone wants a New In Box(never mounted Mechman with AL Spacers) for a good price, PM me.
                            Ouch!! I’m sorry to hear about this trouble. I wonder if mech man makes different frame alternators that fit better. I’m really happy with my indmar replacement one from Amazon. I can get some measurements when I’m at the boat next time but it was exact plug and play from my stock one. I just upgraded the wiring to hold extra amps.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Wakejunkie View Post

                              Ouch!! I’m sorry to hear about this trouble. I wonder if mech man makes different frame alternators that fit better. I’m really happy with my indmar replacement one from Amazon. I can get some measurements when I’m at the boat next time but it was exact plug and play from my stock one. I just upgraded the wiring to hold extra amps.
                              it's all good, I have the Ilmor one on order, am done messing with it.

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                              • #45
                                FYI, I have struggled with voltage issues on my 50th Aniv. X Star since day one. Even after the installing the upgraded alternator. After hours upon hours of dealing with voltage issues with and without the pumps on, I finally found a solution.
                                After talking to a lot of technicians over at the XS Power battery company, they taught me a thing or two about vehicle charging systems. You can’t just fix one design flaw and expect to fix the issue. You have to do the “big 3”.
                                1. Batteries
                                2. Alternator
                                3. Wiring
                                it’s the same philosophy that all the bass crazy cars use in competition. We basically have massive current draws when we run these pumps, just like having giant amps and subwoofers in a mini truck! On top of that we have a very heavy current draw from the onboard electronics all the time, unlike a mini truck!
                                So, the solution is:
                                1. Hi current flow batteries (not the ****ty Interstate garbage that comes with the boat)
                                2. proper size alternator
                                3. proper size wiring (this is the one thing Mastercraft did do right)

                                since the dealership put in the high output alternator in my boat, the last thing I needed was a really strong battery bank. So I chose to ditch all the lead acid batteries, and go with state-of-the-art Lithium titanium batteries. Now, no more problems. Originally boat used to only see 13-13.5 volts without pumps, and 11-11.5 volts with pumps on. Now, it always sees 14.5 volts, and 13-13.5 volts with pumps on.

                                happy boat, happy captain

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