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  • tmacx2
    replied
    Wow. None of what you posted makes me feel better, lol. Seriously though, thank you for taking the time to give such a detailed response. I'm going to start looking into everything you suggested and hopefully I can get this straightened out.

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  • bturner2
    replied
    I have never owned a Shoremaster but have owned and worked on quite a few Shorestations that I can give you my experience with. I always buy used and it would seem that by the time I get them something is broken or is going wrong with them, which BTW is probably why they're being sold in many cases. These are the problems I've came across over the years and how I've overcome issues with these lifts.....
    • Built with the wrong parts or didn't install all the parts - This is probably the number one problem that I've run into with almost every lift. Whether it's missing washers, uneven placement of structure or the wrong bolts, washers or locking nuts there always seems to be something they've screwed up while in a hurry to get the lift assembled. A lot of times one of the minimum wage techs will drop a bolt or washer and just go to the truck and pick up anything that will work. Or worse yet just not install it. I've seen this with the neighbor's lift a few years back and sure as heck a couple years later he has a couple bolts that are a different size that are rusting.The worst one I saw they used the wrong size tubing for the front crossbeam that looked to be an inch smaller in height. The lift would sway when the boat was loading or people got in the boat while it was on the lift..
    • Poor build, not square - This is sort of dove tails into the above and is really common. Ideally when you build the lift you want it on a flat level surface. One of the better shops I know of builds all their lifts at their shop then transports them to the lake completed. I've seen several other lifts built on shore in front of where it's going to live. Nothing wrong with this but you have to be able to square up the legs and base structure or there's a real good change what you build is going to be match boxed when you're done. Unfortunately I've had to square out both mine and that of a friends. This requires pulling it out of the water, getting all the pads at the same height and leveling everything up. Once you do this you can set the height of the upper cross beams to proper spec. This really helps if you have chatter problems or if the cradle is not centered when you lift the boat. I was breaking cables and this seemed to fix the problem for me.
    • Winch alignment - And this one kind of dove tails in to the previous one, again. Making your lift square and aligned is probably the most important thing I can recommend. If it's not the lift is going to work harder to get the boat out and the weak link will quickly show. My friend's winch was about a 1/2" out of alignment to the pulley on the winch tube. This caused the cable to rub hard on the outside of the hub and against the one side of the cable. On his the winch was mounted incorrectly and the frame was match boxed. This is also the one that had the wrong tube in the front. His chattered and made all kinds of scary noises when coming up and broke a cable the first year he had it.
    • Bad pulleys - Even new stuff goes bad and a seized pulley will cause all kinds of problems and not necessarily where the pulley is. If your cradle is not coming up square this could be another place to look. Also if the lift was built poorly you may now have a bad pulley because of it.
    • Bad placement in the water - Back in day a lot of people would installed the lift in the water with the stern lower than the bow so they could pull the plug and drain water out of the boat. In most cases the boats back then were much lighter so they could get away with it, most times. These days the boats are heavier and the lifts are designed to be level in the water. It typically takes me a season or 2 to dial a new lift in as I'm located in an area where the bottom is uneven.The more square you can get your lift the easier it will be for the winch to pull it out of the water. We'll also use a 1/2" sheet of plywood in mucky water to give the lift pads a solid footing. We can then square up the lift. I have 2 sheets embedded in muck that have been down there for 15 years still doing the job.

    So to sum this all up.... If you're having issues the first place to look is how the lift was built. Get the instructions out and walk through each step on your lift to make sure all the parts were used, installed correctly and all the measurements show you have a square lift build. Check all the pulleys you can get to and try to look for any items that have become worn of damaged. Chances are you have one or more of the issues I mention above.

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  • tmacx2
    replied
    So still was having issues this year with this lift. No grease zerks that I can see. I forgot to mention that from 2015 to 2020 I had to have the cable replaced 3x due to fraying or breaking. I had an X2 on it (6000# lift). This past season I got an XT22. I talked to the dealer I bought the lift from and he was confident the lift could handle the new heavier boat. I also talked to a couple of knowledgeable ppl who had the same opinion. The cable broke after 1 week. Replaced it and the new one was beginning to fray by the end of the season. It'll be replaced under warranty but still very frustrating. The dealer thinks it needs a bigger winch box. The lift doesn't travel up and down smoothly when a boat is on it, whether it was the X2 or XT22. It always seems to be a little crooked and as soon as it starts going down the side with the winch box drops first before the other side starts moving. Since the water level is down I went down to the dock today so I could see how the cable was traveling. It's always frayed or broken in the same spot. The lift started in the full up position. As it lowered the frayed section came out of the winch box. When the lift was completely lowered the frayed section was still visible. It never traveled inside the frame or around a pulley so I'm guessing the problem is inside the winch box like the dealer said. I just want to be as sure as possible before I shell out $1500 or so for a new, bigger winch box. The lift dealer doesn't exactly inspire me with confidence since I've had an issue almost every year since I bought this $12K lift. I don't know if this is a design flaw or something that went wrong that has never been fixed correctly. I also politely reached out to Shoremaster and didn't receive a response. Thoughts/suggestions?

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  • epnault
    replied
    Do you have any grease zerks on the pulley pins?

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  • MC FEVER
    replied
    dry lubricants on the pulley's in the cradle helped quiet my vibo vertical lift. Try a dry silicone spray a few times during the season on all of the pulleys.

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  • Coach Mike
    replied
    Vertical lifts like to be level so there is no binding when they ride up and down. Some do have pads that can help with binding when they are slightly out of plumb, but that could be a contributing cause for your situation. Less noticeable when the parts are wet, but dry and build-up definitely makes them groan a bit more.

    My issue is the cable rolling over itself and then binding when it is at the last wrap on the pulley. Gets to the point that it really pops when it snaps over the wrapped cable to start another row on itself. Very heart stopping at times!

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  • RxMC
    replied
    Originally posted by DavidF View Post
    I had a creaking/loudness issue last year - I had my dealer clean all the pullies and the cables, noise disappeared. I'm guessing it needs a general servicing
    This.

    You know they tell you to maintain/lube the pulleys and bushings every season which of course, no one does. Probably just a maintenance issue but could be a cable off of a pulley or something like that.

    Leave a comment:


  • TannerS
    replied
    I had the same problem with my shoremaster 6010. I ended up replacing the pulleys and bushings and the lift ran smooth after that. I think my problem was sand and mud got into the bushings over time and wore them out. You do want your lift as level as possible, otherwise the weight isn’t distributed properly.

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  • RxMC
    replied
    I'm assuming this is a vertical lift?

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  • DavidF
    replied
    I had a creaking/loudness issue last year - I had my dealer clean all the pullies and the cables, noise disappeared. I'm guessing it needs a general servicing

    Leave a comment:


  • tmacx2
    started a topic Lift problem

    Lift problem

    I have a shoremaster boat lift. It's a cable lift. It is making a terrible squeaking sound and jerks when raising and lowering the boat. The noise is coming from the back left corner. There isn't anything impeding the rollers. The side rails are noticeably tilted from back to front. Higher in the back and lower in the front. I've tried researching the problem but haven't come up with much. Any ideas/suggestions are appreciated.
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