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Finally got my new old Maristar!

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  • #16
    I have your tower when you’re ready.

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    • #17
      VRS is "Vibration Reduction System", IIRC.
      It's a great boat; I love mine (same boat, though mine is called a "200VRS"). Plenty of great information here. I'll start: this might come in handy - attached UFP Bearings and Axles document (ooops, too big, won't let me attach).

      I don't know if you have drums or disks on yours; I had drums, and had no end of problems. Eventually, I upgraded to a set of Kodiak replacement disks, and it's the best thing I ever did for the trailer.

      The dividers in the engine compartment are made of something like Starboard (composite, plastic board). You could build them out of varnished exterior plywood, or most anything. When I pull the trailer in for maintenance in the near future, I could pull my dividers and measure them for you. I removed the side and rear panels from the rear compartments, which added a bunch of space.

      The shaft packing is more difficult to replace than it should be; get a pair of crowfoot wrenches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006L23738
      to help out; 2" and 1-7/8" IIRC.

      Grease the rudder - if you can't get grease coming out of the weep hole at the base of the rudder outside the boat, you'll need to take it apart, clean out the dried-up grease, and reinstall. If the steering is stiff after this, you may need to replace the steering cables.

      Align the engine/transmission. There are two alignments:
      1. The fine alignment, described in the manual. Should be done annually. You do have the manual, right? Attached (Ooops, too big; won't let me attach)
      2. The coarse alignment. Described in the attached. Should only need to be done once in the lifetime of the boat (unless you do major work). Do this first, then the fine alignment.

      There's lots of help on this board; feel free to ask questions.
      Attached Files
      1998 Maristar 200VRS

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      • #18
        Originally posted by FrankSchwab View Post
        VRS is "Vibration Reduction System", IIRC.
        It's a great boat; I love mine (same boat, though mine is called a "200VRS"). Plenty of great information here. I'll start: this might come in handy - attached UFP Bearings and Axles document (ooops, too big, won't let me attach).

        I don't know if you have drums or disks on yours; I had drums, and had no end of problems. Eventually, I upgraded to a set of Kodiak replacement disks, and it's the best thing I ever did for the trailer.

        The dividers in the engine compartment are made of something like Starboard (composite, plastic board). You could build them out of varnished exterior plywood, or most anything. When I pull the trailer in for maintenance in the near future, I could pull my dividers and measure them for you. I removed the side and rear panels from the rear compartments, which added a bunch of space.

        The shaft packing is more difficult to replace than it should be; get a pair of crowfoot wrenches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006L23738
        to help out; 2" and 1-7/8" IIRC.

        Grease the rudder - if you can't get grease coming out of the weep hole at the base of the rudder outside the boat, you'll need to take it apart, clean out the dried-up grease, and reinstall. If the steering is stiff after this, you may need to replace the steering cables.

        Align the engine/transmission. There are two alignments:
        1. The fine alignment, described in the manual. Should be done annually. You do have the manual, right? Attached (Ooops, too big; won't let me attach)
        2. The coarse alignment. Described in the attached. Should only need to be done once in the lifetime of the boat (unless you do major work). Do this first, then the fine alignment.

        There's lots of help on this board; feel free to ask questions.
        I'm very interested in the disk brake conversion as I'm in the process of trailer repair already. Thanks for suggestion.

        Side and rear panels removed??? Hmmm I guess I'm missing those too. I suppose they are to protect the hull from damage from the inside? The space back there is cavernous!

        As for the alignment it sounds like the instructions are for a direct drive rather than a v drive so I guess the concept is the same but the process is different?

        I would love to have a copy of the manual - I'll PM my address if you don't mind sharing and you can send files directly. I have a Clymer Indmar inboard shop manual but it seems pretty generic.

        Thank you for taking the time to share your experience!

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        • #19
          Congrats! Glad no one was harmed on the tow home, well done under pressure. She’ll respond to the TLC. jitter click test
          Last edited by lonniehod1982; 05-03-2021, 01:42 AM.

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          • #20
            Looks like my trailer spindle problem is becoming a trailer refurb project. Both brake cylinders and the actuator are shot. May be time for a disk brake conversion????

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            • #21
              Originally posted by crabandy View Post
              Congrats, good color combo.......I’ve got the same.

              Wow on that pole, can’t imagine pulling anything but a flag from it.

              The missing partitions in the rear lockers by the engine were likely made from “SeaBoard.” Order some stock and cut to fit, kinda like a bifold closet door that folds down into the locker for easy engine access. Won’t take much effort to surpass the “quality” from the factory, all the cover panels etc are kinda a hack job. I’ld look into reinforcing the doors for ballast bags as well.

              Good luck on getting your trailer in shape for summer.
              Crabandy - I saw the custom bimini you have on another thread - do you have any close pictures of how the mounts are attached to the windshield frame and the front upright - looks slick! Thanks

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