Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.

[Skipper]

Looks excellent. Question: Seems like Harold's method (dont have time to find it now) includes dry sanding and eventually wet sanding after coats of oil are being applied. How do you keep from mucking up the sandpaper with oil? I tried to sand mine 3 weeks after the first coat "dried", and I cannot get through but about 4 seconds of sanding before my sheet is toast. What am I missing?

Use very thin coats of oil and plenty of water for lubrication. It is an exercise in repetition.
It does need to be 65f at a minimum.

You can make sure that the oil is dry enough and that you are using enough water by conducting a simple test. First, determnine the coefficient of friction of the sand paper across dry, oil free teak by calculating the amount of force required to pull the sanding block across a preset distance. Then, carefully spray water on the surface of the oil free teak and repeat the test. Now, apply oil in a sealed room at 80f with .05% humidity and let it dry for two months. Then, calculate the coefficient of friction without using water. Next divide the coefficient of friction of the sand paper across the dry teak oil by that of teak with no oil multiplied by 3.14 multiplied by the coefficient of friction when using water on teak without oil. If the result is within .0631% then the oil is dry enough and you are using enough water. Simple, really.

[trickskier]

Looking good Too-Tall!

[JJMorris3]

Swim Platform

I am surprised and excited about the results of oiling. Thanks for the advice Team Talk!

[Jesus_Freak]

You can make sure that the oil is dry enough and that you are using enough water by conducting a simple test. First, determnine the coefficient of friction of the sand paper across dry, oil free teak by calculating the amount of force required to pull the sanding block across a preset distance. Then, carefully spray water on the surface of the oil free teak and repeat the test. Now, apply oil in a sealed room at 80f with .05% humidity and let it dry for two months. Then, calculate the coefficient of friction without using water. Next divide the coefficient of friction of the sand paper across the dry teak oil by that of teak with no oil multiplied by 3.14 multiplied by the coefficient of friction when using water on teak without oil. If the result is within .0631% then the oil is dry enough and you are using enough water. Simple, really.

What else did you think I was doing? Actually, you left out a few constants and a partial derivative, but I know what you mean.

Seriously, thank you all for the clarifications. I need to revise my methods...

[Skipper]

I got you brother....

I used this technique on my teak. Ran into the same problem. Once you wipe or brush on the teak oil, wipe off the excess after about 15 minutes. It doesn't all get absorbed by the wood. Then it will dry faster. You really need a lot of water. Keep it wet while you sand. Very time consuming. Takes a bunch of applications.

[kiteklan]

kiteklan's terrible

I am sending these photos because most of yours platforms are in great shape so do not be so picky ,look at mine and be happy

Mine was in terrible shape and best I could get out of this was the last picture.
I think salt water do not treat the teak nice as fresh water.
I am planning to reconstruct the same style platform with new teak this summer.
What I am curies about if should i repeat the same model with grills or make as the platform as new models thicker and less grills?

[H20skeefreek]

Mine is pretty rough looking. I'm thinking about planing mine about 1/6th or and 1/8th thinner and starting over with fresh wood. It looks like someone tried to route the grooves in between the planks out and they aren't straight anymore. I was thinking about doing this and epoxy sealing it.[IMG]file:///C:/Users/THESHA%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]

[coz]

I am sending these photos because most of yours platforms are in great shape so do not be so picky ,look at mine and be happy

Mine was in terrible shape and best I could get out of this was the last picture.
I think salt water do not treat the teak nice as fresh water.
I am planning to reconstruct the same style platform with new teak this summer.
What I am curies about if should i repeat the same model with grills or make as the platform as new models thicker and less grills?

Honestly?.....there's other things that need addressing on that boat

[Covi]

Coz, Those are old pics of kiteklans boat. This winter he completed a total make over. I looks great now and out fitted with Diesel engine. I see if I can find his posts. High in the 70's today in AZ?

[coz]

Coz, Those are old pics of kiteklans boat. This winter he completed a total make over. I looks great now and out fitted with Diesel engine. I see if I can find his posts. High in the 70's today in AZ?

Oh good.....that's not a very good thing to wake up to yeah, it's starting to get back to normal out here and warming up, thank god!

[Sodar]

Salt actually stains and preserves teak. Most sportfishers go "blonde" with there teak and sand down to bare wood, brush saltwater on the decks and then let them bake in the sun. The sun bleaches the teak out and then if they are really ambitious, they will apply a coat of teak oil. Nobody in the salt does a TMC job on there teak. It would get torn up in .01 seconds and is slippery than hell when trying to fish or move around on a moving boat.

[hkallestad]

Kiteklan, as long as the teak is not cracked and broken it's possible to make it look really nice if you go with the teak sealer and wetsanding procedure described on the forum.

[kiteklan]

My teak

Kiteklan, as long as the teak is not cracked and broken it's possible to make it look really nice if you go with the teak sealer and wetsanding procedure described on the forum.

I had used about half litre teak oil and made a day long sand paper.It has lots of cracks.
I will take it to a professional next time.

[Brandit]

[learjet2230]

Not bad for for 22+ years!!!.....The teak not the dog! She's 2...all 106#'s of her!