Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.

[Kyle]

I also linked him to post 240.

I will wake up now Tim. Head is out of my *** now.

On with the thread

[G-Star]

Here is what I did all day...

I have my platform sanded and my buddys '03 209 sanded. I had a little help with my little brown friend.

I am going to use linseed oil and mineral spirits. 80% linseed oil and 20$ spirits. This is what Tommy Nation recommends to use instead of teak oil. Tommy owns Teak World Enterprise. He makes teak platforms for Mastercraft.

Therefore I will not be using Teak Oil. I will show after pics when it gets oiled.

Kyle,

Thanks for the info on this method. Sounds much more practical for the majority of us.

How much of the 80/20 mixture should a guy make to do the 1st coat? I'm guessing about 250 mL?

Also, I assume you give the bottom of the platform the same treatment?

[aquaman]

There's a mid 80;s M/C 3 blocks from me sitting in side yard and has become a catch all ,if you know what I .. Everything in it but the kitchen sink . . I'll post pics later , what a shame !

Post pics.......the owner should be ashamed for treating her like that.

[Kyle]

Kyle,

Thanks for the info on this method. Sounds much more practical for the majority of us.

How much of the 80/20 mixture should a guy make to do the 1st coat? I'm guessing about 250 mL?

Also, I assume you give the bottom of the platform the same treatment?

I use about 20 ounces for both platforms. Mix 8 and 2 and you should have enough for a coat or two. It won't go bad if you don't use it all. I use a coke or water bottle so I can shake it up amd cap it off. As far as the bottom of platform sometimes it gets treatment. The 209 got treatment my 190 did not. That is as needed basis.

[Sodar]

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

[thatsmrmastercraft]

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

Will the effects be great enough that the doctors tell him he needs to come back to lower his blood pressure.................oh wait, that might increase his blood presure even more.

[JohnE]

Harold is having a heart attach about now....

He's pacing and cursing for sure.

[Sodar]

If I could make one of those Hitler parody movies, I would.

The downfall of the 11 step teak method.

[CantRepeat]

If I could make one of those Hitler parody movies, I would.

The downfall of the 11 step teak method.

What is this linseed oil!!!

Everybody out!!

[Craig]

I am in 100% agreement with others with regard to Harold's technique. His technique is very well suited for folks who want to show their boat but it never seemed practical to me as we like to put 150+ hrs a year on our boat.

When I first got my boat two years ago I refinished the teak using a very similar approach to both Kyle and east tx skier. I also used the Starbrite three step kit, and obviously the Starbrite teak oil.

I did a light sanding with some 400 grit paper after the cleaning and pre-oil. Then I simply put 5 coats of teak oil with a couple of days of drying time between coats. Additionally, I would put the platform out in the sun whenever possible to help speed this up. When I was finished I had a platform that stayed clean, kept color, and retained the same functionality as when I started.



Furthermore, it stayed nice all season and only requires some small touch-ups in the spring each year, much like east tx skier described.

The linseed oil mixture seems like an interesting approach. Maybe I missed it, what is the advantage to this mixture over the teak oil?

Regardless of your sealant of choice the general steps involved seems to be:

1) Clean platform to have a good base to start with
2) Some light sanding to get rid of any overly rough spots
3) Finally, a few coats of your sealant of choice. Allow drying between coats and/or wipe off excess.

This is really just a lite version of Harold's technique for those of us who use our platforms.

[G-Star]

I use about 20 ounces for both platforms. Mix 8 and 2 and you should have enough for a coat or two. It won't go bad if you don't use it all. I use a coke or water bottle so I can shake it up amd cap it off. As far as the bottom of platform sometimes it gets treatment. The 209 got treatment my 190 did not. That is as needed basis.

Roger that. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

It looks like the PO might have put a varnish or something on there at one point in time... should be fun to sand all that off

One more question: do you usually remove the mounting brackets and transom saver to make it a bit easier on yourself?

[Kyle]

The linseed oil mixture seems like an interesting approach. Maybe I missed it, what is the advantage to this mixture over the teak oil.

I was recommended by a man Tommy Nation who I believe owns Teak World to resurface my platform this way. I asked how he resurfaced teak platforms when I purchased a teak platform from him. He has been building Mastercraft teak platforms for over 20 years. I wanted a solid deck and he said that the 197's have the same transom curve as my '93 190 so I bought a 197 platform to replace my raggedy and rickety slotted platform. I asked tons of questions and his service is excellent. I received my new platform and transom saver in the mail and was totally impressed by his craftsmanship. He advised me teak oil would not be on the platform as he only uses mineral spirits and linseed oil. The platform was so nice that I continued using his method. I figured a man with this experience knows exactly what he is talking about. He plays teak every single day.

[Kyle]

Roger that. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

It looks like the PO might have put a varnish or something on there at one point in time... should be fun to sand all that off

One more question: do you usually remove the mounting brackets and transom saver to make it a bit easier on yourself?

Don't be afraid to sand with the grain with 60 or 80 grit. That will remove anything from your platform. Teak is a soft wood. I use either 60 or 80 after I use my orbital sander with say 120 grit. The 60 or 80 removes the swirl marks from the orbital. It also will help with not making a slickery surface.

I personally don't like removing screws for brackets or the transom saver. Teak is soft and eventually with removing and replacing the screws every time you resurface, you will waller out the threads and need to put in bigger screws. Personally I sand and oil with brackets on.

[G-Star]

Sanding complete. I was surprised how much material I needed to sand away to get rid of all the whitened teak. I removed the brackets to complete a different repair, but I agree you wouldn't want to remove/replace screws more often than absolutely necessary.

So, my platform is all sanded and ready for the linseed oil mixture. Here's a couple pics of the process...

1st pic: Before.
2nd pic: 1st sanding. Removed a lot of the white, but the deeper stuff required a lot more work.
3rd pic: Finally! Sanded and ready for oil.

Kyle,
After I apply the linseed oil, then wait an hour and wipe off the excess, can I move the platform, or does it pretty much have to stay where it is (untouched) for a week or so to continue drying?

Thanks for your help with this!

[Kyle]

Kyle,
After I apply the linseed oil, then wait an hour and wipe off the excess, can I move the platform, or does it pretty much have to stay where it is (untouched) for a week or so to continue drying?

Thanks for your help with this!

You can move it but it will be oily and not be dry. I would do the bottom and let it sit for a day or two. Temp is in 60' or 70's now. Dry time is faster. Then I would fix your bracket issue. Last do the top and make your teak look like a fine piece of furniture.