Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.

[airdrew99]

Cant repeat,
Do you have any pics of what your platform looks like? I've never seen how the linseed/mineral looks. I alway used TMC#1's method. It sure took some time to do.
Drew

[east tx skier]

I'll post up a third method for what it's worth. Very easy, not time consuming, not slick, and pretty much maintenance free for the season. It's basically like the linseed oil/mineral spirits method. For all I know, that's all Amazon teak oil is. I started using this stuff because that's what my local dealer sells. They like it because they have found it to hold up well. I tend to agree. I'm not saying that this method is anything better than what someone else does. It just happens to work for me. Do what works for you.

1. Sand platform with 120 grit and sweep off the dust with a broom or tack cloth.
2. Apply Amazon teak oil with the palm of your hand (I think one of the things that makes the other method so slick is that Starbrite teak sealer).
3. Wait about 10 minutes and wipe off the excess.
4. Let the platform dry for several days (sunshine is helpful).
5. Apply one more coat of teak oil and wipe down after 10 minutes. I like to hit the platform lightly with some 0 grade steel wool before this step, but it's not absolutely necessary.
6. Let it dry and you're done.

I have gotten very consistent results with this method. I stand on my platform to put on my ski. This method is not for show boats, but still looks nice.

This is the platform after oiling. I'll try to remember to snap an end of season shot this year to show you how it wears. It will have some scratches, but, overall, looks nice for the wear. I have been on the same bottle of Amazon for well over 4 seasons and probably have another couple of seasons left. It doesn't take much.

[DemolitionMan]

Kyle is this what you used on your teak?

[xbot50000]

Does everyone sand before applying the teak oil? Wouldn't sanding just remove teak from the platform? I thought the discolouration of the teak was a natural process. The wood just needs to be cleaned and then re-oiled. I don't know... I could be wrong.

[CantRepeat]

Kyle is this what you used on your teak?

That's what I used, but it was an off brand and all of them said boiled linseed oil so I figured that was it.

[CantRepeat]

Cant repeat,
Do you have any pics of what your platform looks like? I've never seen how the linseed/mineral looks. I alway used TMC#1's method. It sure took some time to do.
Drew

Ask and you shall receive! This is Kyle's way.

[CantRepeat]

As you can see they are two completely different types of finish.

Both look great, but one is for showing the other is for use.

[east tx skier]

Does everyone sand before applying the teak oil? Wouldn't sanding just remove teak from the platform? I thought the discolouration of the teak was a natural process. The wood just needs to be cleaned and then re-oiled. I don't know... I could be wrong.

I forgot to mention that the sanding, at least as I use it, only gets done about every 3 years or so. I usually just smooth things out with the steel wool and apply one coat of teak oil in the spring. As for the graying, I don't know. I have never had mine get to that point.

[Barefooter92]

Did the TMC#1 process last year took a week to finish three coats. I then stopped because it was time to enjoy the boat. Got the teak protected for the summer.

I just started Monday night sanding and hope to finish this week. I am using an off the shelf product from Lowes for teak. I will keep you posted on the progress.

I tried the product on an old ski and it works great in two coats!

[xbot50000]

The steel wool is a good idea instead of sanding. You can spend a lot of time sanding the platform, but the results can be replicated by using only teak cleaner and a soft bristle brush. The greying is caused by mold.

[Grantx15]

begging to be refinished!



light sanding on the first board of the deck, to compare.
the entire deck is now sanded and just waiting for some warm weather to finish it up with linseed oil / mineral spirits.

send some heat to NJ!

[east tx skier]

This is an interesting write up considering how many people are mixing their own teak oil this year. The fact is that using linseed oil or tung oil cut with mineral spirits is not terribly dissimilar to what you can buy already mixed up. It may be cheaper for the bulk you are buying, but the primary difference appears to be some some UV protectants and mildew retardants in the commercially produced "teak oils." This seems like it will be beneficial over the long haul depending on how much exposure your platform has. It also explains the mineral spirits component in the Teak World method, but only suggests that it be used for the first coat. Anyhow, for what it's worth ....

Link

Oiling teak on boats is a time-honored tradition. Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance. Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood---more like salt than sauce---oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak's natural oils and resins. Unfortunately, the benefit of oiling exterior teak is extremely transitory. The sorry truth is that teak will last just as long if you don't oil it-longer really, since repeated between---coat scrubbing wears the wood away. But oiling teak isn't about protecting the wood; it's about recovering and maintaining that golden glow that made us want teak on the boat in the first place.

Teak oils are primarily either linseed oil or tung oil, bolstered by resins to make them more durable. Linseed oil tends to darken the teak, but it is significantly cheaper. Tung oil doesn't darken the wood, and it is more water resistant than linseed oil-a notable advantage for boat use. However, a month or two after application, it may be hard to discern that much difference since both oils carbonize in the sun and turn dark. Proprietary teak oils address this problem with various additives, including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants. Some that perform admirably in one climate are reviled in another. If you are going to oil your teak, make your teak oil selection based on the recommendations of other boat owners in your area.

Apply teak oil with a paint brush. Immediately wipe up (with a spirits-dampened cloth) any drips or runs on fiberglass or painted surfaces, or the resins the oil contains will leave dark, nearly-impossible-to-remove stains. Watch out for sneaky runs below the rail.

Oiling requires multiple coats. The wood will initially "drink" the oil, and thinning the first coat about 20% with mineral spirits or turpentine encourages it to penetrate the wood more deeply. By the third coat, oil will begin to stand in some areas. Wipe up excess oil with a cloth. Continue to brush on the oil and wipe away any excess until the wood is saturated. The wood should have a matte finish without any shiny spots.

[east tx skier]

I just posted this in another thread, but it bears repeating

This is an interesting write up considering how many people are mixing their own teak oil this year. The fact is that using linseed oil or tung oil cut with mineral spirits is not terribly dissimilar to what you can buy already mixed up. It may be cheaper for the bulk you are buying, but the primary difference appears to be some some UV protectants and mildew retardants in the commercially produced "teak oils." This seems like it will be beneficial over the long haul depending on how much exposure your platform has. It also explains the mineral spirits component in the Teak World method, but only suggests that it be used for the first coat. Anyhow, for what it's worth ....

Link

Oiling teak on boats is a time-honored tradition. Oil intensifies the colors and grain patterns of wood and gives the wood a rich, warm appearance. Because it simply enhances the inherent beauty of the wood---more like salt than sauce---oiling is arguably the most attractive of all wood finishes, and it restores some of the teak's natural oils and resins. Unfortunately, the benefit of oiling exterior teak is extremely transitory. The sorry truth is that teak will last just as long if you don't oil it-longer really, since repeated between---coat scrubbing wears the wood away. But oiling teak isn't about protecting the wood; it's about recovering and maintaining that golden glow that made us want teak on the boat in the first place.

Teak oils are primarily either linseed oil or tung oil, bolstered by resins to make them more durable. Linseed oil tends to darken the teak, but it is significantly cheaper. Tung oil doesn't darken the wood, and it is more water resistant than linseed oil-a notable advantage for boat use. However, a month or two after application, it may be hard to discern that much difference since both oils carbonize in the sun and turn dark. Proprietary teak oils address this problem with various additives, including pigments, UV filters, and mildew retardants. Some that perform admirably in one climate are reviled in another. If you are going to oil your teak, make your teak oil selection based on the recommendations of other boat owners in your area.

Apply teak oil with a paint brush. Immediately wipe up (with a spirits-dampened cloth) any drips or runs on fiberglass or painted surfaces, or the resins the oil contains will leave dark, nearly-impossible-to-remove stains. Watch out for sneaky runs below the rail.

Oiling requires multiple coats. The wood will initially "drink" the oil, and thinning the first coat about 20% with mineral spirits or turpentine encourages it to penetrate the wood more deeply. By the third coat, oil will begin to stand in some areas. Wipe up excess oil with a cloth. Continue to brush on the oil and wipe away any excess until the wood is saturated. The wood should have a matte finish without any shiny spots.

[CantRepeat]

Great info eastie!! Thanks.

[east tx skier]

Great info eastie!! Thanks.

I had heard several years ago that teak oil was mostly linseed oil, but I couldn't remember the source. No matter the method or product you choose, it's good to understand it all a bit better.