I would love to sand and finish yours. I happen to be in the flooring business so sanding wood floors is my passion. This is pretty familiar stuff for me. I just sanded it down with 80 grit orbital palm sander. I used watco teak oil finish from menards. Like someone said in a previous post the lower grits like 80 or 100 will leave the pores open for the oil to penetrate better. If 80 doesn't cut off the old stuff try 60 then finish with a finer grit.
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Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.
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After getting off of work yesterday, I pulled the platform and started sanding. Here is what I learned.
1. Progress may be slow due to repeated trips to the fridge for a fresh beer.
a. Solution - place beer in cooler and take to where you are sanding.
2. It's going to take longer than you thought.
a. Buy extra beer before beginning.
3. Any glue used in the original assembly has probably failed by now. Disassemble as much as you are comfortable with, it makes the sanding easier.
4. As much time as I spent sanding; next time I may just run it through my thickness planer.
5. See items 1 & 2.
This is early in the process.
Being on the water is best, but when I'm not on the water I'm on TT.
2002 X Star
Sold - 76 S&S
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Originally posted by 10ptmust View PostJust got around to pulling my teak in prep for the summer here. One of the pieces my support bracket is attached to looks about on its last leg.
Any good tips on where to get a replacement piece?
Im still waiting on my replacement piece for my support bracket that I ordered last Sept (2012). Guess I should call them!2002 Maristar 230 VRS
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I'm doing my sanding makeover again -
Last year, partner dropped off the Star Brite 3 step -
Belt sanded it clean - coated the final teak oil on - install platform.
It looked like a joke from the start - had that urethane look - sure enough the brush used
was solid rock a week later.
The Unsanded end of platform looks as seen when removed last fall -
I'll be finding some actual Teak Oil that penetrates vs just lay on the surface and it shows.
One would think it was 5 years of varnish worn through.
6 weekends maybe max of in & out of the water.
REMOVING STAR BRITE FINISH
Beltsander process began yesterday - 36 grit plows it off decent.
30 degrees to the grain each direction - then final cuts with grain.
It blends the end joints flush nicely.
Leaving the micro cut of 36 grit in the surface to lesson slips when wet.
I'll try a micro focus close up to show what that looks like tomorrow.
Tonite was removing the rest of it - and the outer edge.
Hoping the image shows the horrible finish in close up of this section.
WATCO Teak Oil Finish
CLICK LINK FOR 1600x view.
Turned out much Better than StarBrite - with a real look and feel of Teak. Huge Thanks to GoinBoatin.Last edited by Philscbx; 06-29-2013, 09:22 PM.
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Originally posted by GoinBoatin View PostI happen to be in the flooring business -
I used watco teak oil finish from menards.
Actually - A floor sander is the first thing I thought of using -
I grew up with those 300lb machines.
Making a starting & ending jig of 2x6's on the ends for running the machine past the ends of platform -
would do the deck in two minutes - vs hours - and massive quantities of Beer.
Update - Just returned from Menards - Yes they had the WATCO Teak Oil Finish.
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I have been making my own formula of teak cleaner:
1 part TSP
2 parts hot water
8 parts bleach
I apply it to the platform, let it sit for 10 minutes and then scrub with a brush. I reapply and repeat a second or third time if there is any black. Requires an easy light sanding after, and then it is ready for teak oil.
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