Originally posted by MIskiboat
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Note to those following (take it or leave it): Here are a few tips I have learned from mistakes and experience after doing probably a dozen or more boards;
- A nice sunny day with mid-range humidity / 75 deg F / 50-60% humidity is the ideal condition but that is not critical.
- What is critical to success: do not let the mixture set on the board more than 8-11 minutes at any time after application. Teak is considered a mostly non-porous wood and it will not absorb the solution beyond that time-frame. After that (due to the solution mixture) it can become sticky and turn to more of a mess than anything. This is where the sanding and start all over comes in. Do not let the solution set on the board more than 8-11 minutes. At that time wipe it clean and dry with shop cloth (no paper towels).
- Also critical: let that one side set over night (at least 24 hours) before treating the other side.
- Flip it and do the same on the other side. Let that other side set over night (at least 24 hours).
- OCD critical:I recommend to not use a cloth pad under the newly treated surface (between the area is is resting) when doing the other side. The cloth pad will absorb some of the newly applied solution and leave a mark but that goes away after the first use. Let the other side dry for 24 hours.
Also critical: I do not recommend a second coat but if you must, treat the surface and leave the second coat on no longer than 3-5 minutes at most . At that time wipe it clean and dry with shop cloth (no paper towels). Let it dry for 24 hours.
I do the same thing to my teak cup holder.
Follow this to the letter or find yourself sanding or be less than satisfied with your results. Beats teak oil hands down, year-in and year-out unless you like oil on your swim clothes and feet, then back in on your carpet, then on your upholstery. Just sayin'.
I never sand and never pressure wash. However I do recommend the pressure wash for prep on an old board. Never had to sand one yet.
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