Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.

[fvierra27]

I did a thing at the beginning of the season. Rubio Hybrid Wood Protector for a matte finish.

[JohnE]

Bing Bong!!!

Lookis great!!

[brucemac]

Bing Bong!!!

[waterlogged882]

One other question. You referenced not to mix the simple green and the Go Jo. Are ideal steps to use a scrub brush first with simple green, then follow up scrub brush to apply the Go Jo, then rinse and let dry?

Spot on. Just go at it like any other clean-up project. Dissolve, then use the grit to help along. You are on the right track.

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[jcnst1]

Simple Green solution (or similar) to dissolve in conjunction with (not mixed) Go-Jo (or similar) grit solution to cut, scrub brush, and a water hose for rinsing. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Since you are self-confessed to your mistake, I will (again) take this opportunity as point and case...take it or leave it, especially the nay-sayers...do not leave the treatment mixture on more than 8-11 minutes. Read that again. Teak (for all practical purposes) is not a porous wood. The treatment will not soak in any more beyond what the wood initially absorbs. That is the reason one wipes the surface clean after the short amount of time. Thus no sticky surface that has nowhere to go besides being sticky.

I work on the side of caution at 10 minutes. Wipe the surface dry as possible and let that remaining coat dry for 24 hours. That 24 hours is not to be considered overnight. Read that again. All the more reason that a second coat is rarely needed, necessary, or viable.

For a point of reference, I mix three ounces to one ounce and that will do an entire board both sides. That keeps my board good for several years. In addition, I wipe the board after daily use with 303. A light coat using a shop rag keeps it looking good all season and beyond.

Best on the cleaning. The board is recoverable, just a slight delay in your plans.

US $0.02

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One other question. You referenced not to mix the simple green and the Go Jo. Are ideal steps to use a scrub brush first with simple green, then follow up scrub brush to apply the Go Jo, then rinse and let dry?

[jcnst1]

Simple Green solution (or similar) to dissolve in conjunction with (not mixed) Go-Jo (or similar) grit solution to cut, scrub brush, and a water hose for rinsing. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Since you are self-confessed to your mistake, I will (again) take this opportunity as point and case...take it or leave it, especially the nay-sayers...do not leave the treatment mixture on more than 8-11 minutes. Read that again. Teak (for all practical purposes) is not a porous wood. The treatment will not soak in any more beyond what the wood initially absorbs. That is the reason one wipes the surface clean after the short amount of time. Thus no sticky surface that has nowhere to go besides being sticky.

I work on the side of caution at 10 minutes. Wipe the surface dry as possible and let that remaining coat dry for 24 hours. That 24 hours is not to be considered overnight. Read that again. All the more reason that a second coat is rarely needed, necessary, or viable.

For a point of reference, I mix three ounces to one ounce and that will do an entire board both sides. That keeps my board good for several years. In addition, I wipe the board after daily use with 303. A light coat using a shop rag keeps it looking good all season and beyond.

Best on the cleaning. The board is recoverable, just a slight delay in your plans.

US $0.02

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Many thanks sir.

[jcnst1]

I am a proponent of the linseed /spirits. probably one of the first few pioneers of using it. I keep my boat in a garage after each daily use. I wipe the platform off with a light spray of 303 after each daily use. That's all I do. About every three years I treat the board with said mixture. That's it.

Note to those following (take it or leave it): Here are a few tips I have learned from mistakes and experience after doing probably a dozen or more boards;

• A nice sunny day with mid-range humidity / 75 deg F / 50-60% humidity is the ideal condition but that is not critical.

• What is critical to success: do not let the mixture set on the board more than 8-11 minutes at any time after application. Teak is considered a mostly non-porous wood and it will not absorb the solution beyond that time-frame. After that (due to the solution mixture) it can become sticky and turn to more of a mess than anything. This is where the sanding and start all over comes in. Do not let the solution set on the board more than 8-11 minutes. At that time wipe it clean and dry with shop cloth (no paper towels).

• Also critical: let that one side set over night (at least 24 hours) before treating the other side.

• Flip it and do the same on the other side. Let that other side set over night (at least 24 hours).

• OCD critical:I recommend to not use a cloth pad under the newly treated surface (between the area is is resting) when doing the other side. The cloth pad will absorb some of the newly applied solution and leave a mark but that goes away after the first use. Let the other side dry for 24 hours.

Also critical: I do not recommend a second coat but if you must, treat the surface and leave the second coat on no longer than 3-5 minutes at most . At that time wipe it clean and dry with shop cloth (no paper towels). Let it dry for 24 hours.


I do the same thing to my teak cup holder.

Follow this to the letter or find yourself sanding or be less than satisfied with your results. Beats teak oil hands down, year-in and year-out unless you like oil on your swim clothes and feet, then back in on your carpet, then on your upholstery. Just sayin'.

I never sand and never pressure wash. However I do recommend the pressure wash for prep on an old board. Never had to sand one yet.

$0.02

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Like an idiot, I didn't wipe the excess off quickly enough. Checked it this morning and it's sticky. What's the best way to remove so I can start over again, doing it correctly this time?

[waterlogged882]

Ok guys, like an idiot I forgot to wipe off the excess after my first application - used 75/25. Of course now it's sticky. I tried to wipe it off but I let it set too long. How do I go about getting the sticky oil off to start over again?

Simple Green solution (or similar) to dissolve in conjunction with (not mixed) Go-Jo (or similar) grit solution to cut, scrub brush, and a water hose for rinsing. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Since you are self-confessed to your mistake, I will (again) take this opportunity as point and case...take it or leave it, especially the nay-sayers...do not leave the treatment mixture on more than 8-11 minutes. Read that again. Teak (for all practical purposes) is not a porous wood. The treatment will not soak in any more beyond what the wood initially absorbs. That is the reason one wipes the surface clean after the short amount of time. Thus no sticky surface that has nowhere to go besides being sticky.

I work on the side of caution at 10 minutes. Wipe the surface dry as possible and let that remaining coat dry for 24 hours. That 24 hours is not to be considered overnight. Read that again. All the more reason that a second coat is rarely needed, necessary, or viable.

For a point of reference, I mix three ounces to one ounce and that will do an entire board both sides. That keeps my board good for several years. In addition, I wipe the board after daily use with 303. A light coat using a shop rag keeps it looking good all season and beyond.

Best on the cleaning. The board is recoverable, just a slight delay in your plans.

US $0.02

.

[jcnst1]

Ok guys, like an idiot I forgot to wipe off the excess after my first application - used 75/25. Of course now it's sticky. I tried to wipe it off but I let it set too long. How do I go about getting the sticky oil off to start over again?

[CantRepeat]

I like the second pic. I don't like the dark wood. Lots of pics of dark, shiny wood platforms in this thread. No knock on what others like, but I think that would look silly on my boat.

That's unfinished raw teak and wouldn't last a week looking like that in water/sun conditions.

[RxMC]

I like the second pic. I don't like the dark wood. Lots of pics of dark, shiny wood platforms in this thread. No knock on what others like, but I think that would look silly on my boat.

[CantRepeat]

Starbrite teak cleaner, 80 grit on a DA, teak brightener, light 220 grit, 80/20.

I've got about 45 minutes of work in this with drying time.

[brucemac]

No Sir.

All good. They will look great. I have done two new ones recently. They turned out just fine. No abrupt changes, etc.

Just follow my recommended steps to the letter.

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Thanks you! Now just waiting on some warmer weather.

[waterlogged882]

Thanks WL!

Any reason I couldn’t go over the top of the new board with the 75/25 as is new?

No Sir.

All good. They will look great. I have done two new ones recently. They turned out just fine. No abrupt changes, etc.

Just follow my recommended steps to the letter.

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[brucemac]

Tommy uses a light oil made for teak (teak oil??). I cannot be certain of what kind. I got something from him today and it was not treated but that is OK. I'll use the Linseed / Spirits. What I have found is the Linseed/Spirits is less oily per se' and it lasts a long time. I like it because it does not track back into the boat, get on cloths, or otherwise leave a trail of application. Other oils seem (to me) a bit more evident of the application.

If I can remember, I'll call him tomorrow and ask.

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Thanks WL!

Any reason I couldn’t go over the top of the new board with the 75/25 as is new?