Engine Box Insulation

[BrianM]

BrianM - how is this holding up - do you like it? Any pics?

Holding up great. Seems to provide about the same insulating properties as the original. Sorry no pics but next time I'm at the lake I'll take a couple if I can remember.

[TLR67]

I got mine from Sears... Cheapest I could find... Also works great since I took the Silent Muffler off too...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00982861000P?vName=Sears%20Pro&cName=Professional&sName=Mechanics%20Tools%20&%20Auto%20Supplies&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00982861000P

[Craig]

Just to add to those who have been pleased with the McMaster-Carr insulation, I have been very happy in the recent months with my install.

I used 7' of the foil-faced, self-adhesive stuff as thick as they make it. I was tentative about the adhesive at first but very glad I went that route now. It adhered really well and the engine stays nice and clean.

I would recommend getting 8' to anyone trying it in the future, 7' took some very intelligent cutting to have enough.

[macattack]

Craig: It sounds like you purchased the 1" foil face adhesive backed foam @ 14.01 per foot? Where you able to place the foam under the metal strip at the bottom of your engine box or was it too thick? Any other install tips besides buying an '8 section. Any pics? tks, mac

[TLR67]

^^ Who's bright idea was it at MC to put cup holders in the engine box anyway???

[BNIROOSTER]

"DynaMat" is the sound dampening material used by high-end car audio shops. They put it in doors and back gates. Under or behind carpet and upholstering to reduce vibration from speaker. Comes in sheets of various size and thickness. I too remember a kit, but can't find it.

There is another product that is similar, but more cost effective. It's called FatMat and can be found on Ebay for less than $100 for 50 sqft.

[Craig]

Craig: It sounds like you purchased the 1" foil face adhesive backed foam @ 14.01 per foot? Where you able to place the foam under the metal strip at the bottom of your engine box or was it too thick? Any other install tips besides buying an '8 section. Any pics? tks, mac

Mac,

Sorry for the delay, was out of the country.

Anyway, yes you are correct on the 1" foam, adhesive-backed, foil-faced.

I just ran the foam about a half inch shy of the strip at the bottom and slid some aluminum duct-tape under the strip and over the top of the foam. I ran a line like that all the way around the motor box and I think it turned out pretty nice.

I came to the conclusion that the foam was not going under there unless I drilled out all the rivets on the aluminum strip, placed the foam, and re-riveted all of them.

You can see a couple of pictures of my install here:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=681624&postcount=71

Hope this helps.

[east tx skier]

The foil tape finishes it off nicely. It also is easy to use as a patch if your insulation gets torn.

[at7driver]

I have an 89 Prostar and finally have it running so its on to the cosmetic stuff. I was wondering if that 1" insulation is too thick for the 89's, there doesnt look like there's enough room in there (when its closed) without it rubbing on something.

Has anybody used this material on their 89's. thanks. I removed the old insulation and sanded off the old glue etc.. ready to re-install new insulation.





dave

[macattack]

Finally found time to accomplish the motor box insulation install. I used the McMaster-Carr adhesive back, 1" reinforced foil faced foam (8' x 54").

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sound-control-insulation/=9dzrvc

Tools Required:
- Tools to remove the hardware on your motor box
- Goo Off, acetone, putty knife
- A very sharp pair of scissors
- Hack saw blade (for cutting out the cupholder holes)
- AC aluminum foil tape and painter's tape

I removed all the hardware to include the metal strip at the bottom of the motor box (my strip was screwed in vs riveted). I used painter’s tape to mark the location of the screw holes. Also, Dremeled off all the exposed sheet metal screws.

The most time consuming task was the removal of the old adhesive; not sure this was necessary?? Whatever MC used was still pretty sticky. I used Goo Off which worked, but again time consuming. Once I removed ~90%, I used acetone to clean up the remaining residue.

Decided to install the foam in 3 pieces…center and 2 sides; used butcher paper to make the templates. Installed the center section first, then made the side templates. Lesson learned…the foam has one edge that is sealed/tapers off vs a squared off cut. I would cut that seam off before you install, so you have two squared edges that will butt together better when fitting the pieces next to each other.

I only pulled the backing off a few inches at a time while installing the foam; once it sticks, it pretty hard to remove/adjust so this where you need to take your time and work slowly. I had my wife hold the piece on a 90 degree angle or so and feed it to me as I pressed it on to the box.

Once the all the pieces were installed, I turned over the motor box and used a hack saw blade to cut out the cupholders. Flipped it back on its side and used the foil tape to cover the open edge of the foam so it would not tear if you remove the cupholders later on.

Other than that, measure twice (or more) before you cut! The 8’ length worked out well; you might get away with 7’ but not worth the hassle of perfect cutting, etc.

[macattack]

Some additional pics...

[MC205]

Very nice install....on my to do list for the winter.

[wheelerd]

Nicely done!
Just curious as to why you chose foil rather than the stock gray?

[Craig]

mac,

what a great looking install! You will not be sorry you did this.

[mayo93prostar]

looks very nice. I need to do this project this winter on my 93 prostar. nice info on doing the 3 pieces.