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  • #46
    Originally posted by blackhawk View Post
    Hammer - Here is a write up that I did last Fall. Pretty close to Brian's method. I list out all the part numbers that I used. The only thing that I would do differently is to add the glaze step before waxing. I mention that toward the end of the thread.
    You are referring to this thread?

    scratch removal and buffing process that worked for me
    1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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    • #47
      Used Blackhawks methods also!!!
      Aric


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      • #48
        Lake weir skier - Yes, I copied the link, but evidently forgot to paste it. Thanks for posting the link.
        We defy the mafia!

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        • #49
          Gents - This is all great info! I have a two year old boat that the original owner apparently never waxed at all while it sat on a lift. I just removed his original registration numbers otday and there is a definite color change n the gel coat under the old letters. What you recommend in this scenario? A similar procedure? I had some Meguiar's Heavy Oxidation remover and a cotton rag to hit it with quickly today, but that didn't come close. Pretty surprising to see a 2012 color change this much.

          Thanks in advance for the guidance.

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          • #50
            P.S. Which one of these 3M Super Duty compounds did you use? Are they all the same? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...uty%20compound

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            • #51
              I would hit it with 3m 06044. Thatll be a one and done deal
              Aric


              LONE STAR MASTERBASH 2022
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              2022 Sea Hunt BX22 CC
              For Sale:
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              • #52
                ..........
                Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-18-2015, 12:21 PM.
                93 190
                (safe click)

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                • #53
                  Thanks guys. Can I do this by hand or with an orbital?? I don't have a circular. Much appreciated.

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                  • #54
                    You can do it by hand but it takes some elbow grease. For wht you ar describing it should work fine. You will have to use a polish after the Superduty as it will leave the gel looking a bit hazy.
                    sigpic

                    1997 Prostar 190, TBI 350, 1:1, OJ XMP 13 x 11.5, Stargazer, Hot Shower, Heated Drivers Seat, Reuben/Mountain Rock/Nite Navy


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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by kentcunningham View Post
                      Thanks guys. Can I do this by hand or with an orbital?? I don't have a circular. Much appreciated.
                      Having a buffer will be much faster and easier. You can just pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for around $40 or so. You will save so much time and effort. Don't even bother with the cheap buffing/polishing pads they sell though. They are junk.

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by kentcunningham View Post
                        P.S. Which one of these 3M Super Duty compounds did you use? Are they all the same? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...uty%20compound
                        I bought a quart of Super Duty to begin but quickly learned a twisted wool pad will pull quite a bit of it in, so when I replenshed, I bought a gallon. I don't know if the auto and marine versions have the same formulation, but if there is any difference, I suspect it's not great. I'm not worrying about it. It may just be packaging and pricing differences.
                        1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by kentcunningham View Post
                          Thanks guys. Can I do this by hand or with an orbital?? I don't have a circular. Much appreciated.
                          I have a 1994 I bought last year. I don't know how many owners it's had, but the layers of registration decals I removed suggest the registration number I removed was on the boat at least twelve years.

                          I found the shadow of the registation number was pretty stubborn. It didn't disappear with compounding with my Flex 3401 -- an orbital with forced rotation. Maybe with more work time it would have, but I got rid of it with wet sanding and removing sanding scratches with Super Duty on a pure rotary running a twisted wool pad at 1400 RPM.

                          Maybe yours, being a newer boat, will disappear with less effort. The rule you always hear is use the least aggressive method that accomplishes the task.

                          By the way, I discovered one night the registration shadow was much more visible and defined under halogen light than in daylight. Not that I'm going to have my boat under a halogen light all the time, but it made it easier to verify the thing was really good and gone.
                          1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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                          • #58
                            Hmmm....I do have a Harbor Freight nearby and I had forgotten about them. Good tip. Thanks!

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                            • #59
                              I would suggest the Dewalt DWP849X polisher. I had used a Porter Cable polisher/sander for years on my cars and my first boat. When I decided to really work on my X15 I bought the Dewalt and it made a huge difference. I just did my two daily drivers, SUV and truck, for the first time with the Dewalt and they look the best that they ever have. I know it is an expensive tool but it is well worth it IMHO. It has great torque and maintains the set speed no matter how hard you push down on it.


                              http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849X...ewalt+polisher
                              We defy the mafia!

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by blackhawk View Post
                                I would suggest the Dewalt DWP849X polisher. I had used a Porter Cable polisher/sander for years on my cars and my first boat. When I decided to really work on my X15 I bought the Dewalt and it made a huge difference. I just did my two daily drivers, SUV and truck, for the first time with the Dewalt and they look the best that they ever have. I know it is an expensive tool but it is well worth it IMHO. It has great torque and maintains the set speed no matter how hard you push down on it.


                                http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849X...ewalt+polisher
                                What speed should we use on these multispeed units? I assume slower is better because it's less likely to swirl, but faster removes faster/easier. Just curious if there is a hard and fast rule.

                                Also, which pads did you buy? btw..Thanks for spending my money this morning!! lol

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