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  • Thoughts on 2006 XStar Stereo Upgrade

    Hello all, I have been reading through some interesting threads here on other upgrades and thought I’d start one for my boat. I recently went through some serious consideration about selling my 2006 XStar and buying a ridiculous $ new boat. The Star has only 400 hours and I’ve had it since 08. It’s in great shape overall so I decided to keep it and spend some fun money on it. Ordered new Gator Step this week and am starting the audio upgrade plans next. Will work on ballast solution for a surf wave as well. Not sure of budget on audio, but not trying to be thrifty. Want to spend enough to do it well but not just stupid. Budget will be healthy.

    Current sound is not bad, just stock from 2006 so 16 years old and I’d like something new and a little on the bad *** side without being crazy.

    I have the following now:
    - Clarion CMD4 Head Unit
    - all speakers and amps are JL Audio
    - 6 in boats each with accompanying tweeters (2 in bow)
    - 2 tower speakers with lights integrated and also external tweeters
    ​​​​​​- 10 inch IB sub
    - 6 channel e6450M + 2 channel e2150M
    - 2 battery system with isolation switch
    - stock wiring

    I would like to keep the holes the same if possible. Have not thought through that trade off much though.

    Will likely stay with 2 tower speakers in new config. Whether I replace them or not.

    Would like to have a charging system if possible, like to run system while at dock. Would welcome any ideas.

    I don’t have experience with other marine brands so hard to just make the plunge.

    Thx for sharing your knowledge and experience.

    -Andy

    2006 XStar
    Sold - 2001 X30
    Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

  • #2
    As I have worked through this some more I find myself leaning towards the following:

    Speakers:
    JL M6 - in boats, 3 pairs (I assume the cutouts for the 2006 XStar will only accommodate the 6.5 version)
    *will likely just disconnect the tweeters and leave them there in silence

    M6 10IB single sub

    Towers? Looking for suggestion...not sure if there are mounting issues...looking at the M6 770's or 880's. Never heard them so hard to choose.

    Amps:
    Could use some help...in my way of thinking I believe the power available from the amp should exceed the RMS rating of the speakers by at least 25%...thoughts?

    Is the integrated DSP product JL has worth the upgrade cost...MVi vs MHD

    Batteries and Charging:
    Have two battery system now and no supplemental charging. Would like advice on this as well. Would like to be able to play system while on my lift on the dock...may even mount a wireless remote on dock off-boat

    Thx,
    Andy
    2006 XStar
    Sold - 2001 X30
    Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by BrushyCreekXS View Post
      As I have worked through this some more I find myself leaning towards the following:

      Speakers:
      JL M6 - in boats, 3 pairs (I assume the cutouts for the 2006 XStar will only accommodate the 6.5 version)
      *will likely just disconnect the tweeters and leave them there in silence

      M6 10IB single sub

      Towers? Looking for suggestion...not sure if there are mounting issues...looking at the M6 770's or 880's. Never heard them so hard to choose.

      Amps:
      Could use some help...in my way of thinking I believe the power available from the amp should exceed the RMS rating of the speakers by at least 25%...thoughts?

      Is the integrated DSP product JL has worth the upgrade cost...MVi vs MHD

      Batteries and Charging:
      Have two battery system now and no supplemental charging. Would like advice on this as well. Would like to be able to play system while on my lift on the dock...may even mount a wireless remote on dock off-boat

      Thx,
      Andy
      Others will be along soon I'm sure, but I can chime in regarding the M6 880's. I have a single pair on my tower with JL's round fixed clamps. I debated 770/880, but ultimately went for the larger speaker. They sound great and blend well with the in-boats and M7-12IB sub. I went with the 880's for the larger surface area and the larger tweeter. Came from WS Pro80's and didn't want/need the projection. Also prefer the warmer sound of a coaxial. I'm running 200W RMS to each from a WS Syn6 (1&2 + 3&4 bridged). You could probably get away with 150W if you went with the 770's is my bet. I also have (2) pair of M3 650's in the bow/cabin and am powering them with 125W each from a Syn4. Plenty clean and loud. 3 pairs of M6 650's would be great. I have also been looking at new amps, but am holding out until I see a failure on my Wetsound amps. IMO, the MVi series isn't worth the extra cost and I'll likely go MHD when the time comes.

      Get yourself an onboard battery charger. Something with some "intelligence" that's capable of topping them off in a few hours as well as maintaining them. Then you can just plug her in when you get back to the dock.

      Not sure what your real estate is on that boat, but if you could do (2) 10IB, you'd probably be happier.
      ¡Viva 205V!
      2003 X2 MCX

      Comment


      • #4
        NOCO makes 10 and 20 amp dual battery chargers. I think when they say 10amp, it's 10amps total or 5 amps/battery:

        https://no.co/gen5x2

        https://no.co/genpro10x2
        2000 Prostar 205V

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by brucemac View Post

          Others will be along soon I'm sure, but I can chime in regarding the M6 880's. I have a single pair on my tower with JL's round fixed clamps. I debated 770/880, but ultimately went for the larger speaker. They sound great and blend well with the in-boats and M7-12IB sub. I went with the 880's for the larger surface area and the larger tweeter. Came from WS Pro80's and didn't want/need the projection. Also prefer the warmer sound of a coaxial. I'm running 200W RMS to each from a WS Syn6 (1&2 + 3&4 bridged). You could probably get away with 150W if you went with the 770's is my bet. I also have (2) pair of M3 650's in the bow/cabin and am powering them with 125W each from a Syn4. Plenty clean and loud. 3 pairs of M6 650's would be great. I have also been looking at new amps, but am holding out until I see a failure on my Wetsound amps. IMO, the MVi series isn't worth the extra cost and I'll likely go MHD when the time comes.

          Get yourself an onboard battery charger. Something with some "intelligence" that's capable of topping them off in a few hours as well as maintaining them. Then you can just plug her in when you get back to the dock.

          Not sure what your real estate is on that boat, but if you could do (2) 10IB, you'd probably be happier.
          Thanks for the comments and insights.

          My 2006 XStar came with the 3pairs of 6.5" + external tweeter...1-pair in the bow and 2-pair in the cabin, 2 towers also with external tweeters, and 1 - 10in IB Sub along with the amps mentioned above...I do not know what any of the stock speakers were rated...so hard to see how they sized the amp to the speakers...I think your M3's are rated 60W RMS if memory serves so you are providing 125W, which is more headroom than I was thinking, M6 is 75W RMS and I was thinking 100W per channel would be enough is that wrong?

          I too believe the 6.5 M6 would likely sound great with 3 pairs in that boat..so I don't think I want to go to the work of increasing cut-out size for all the holes to accommodate larger in-boats...

          Also, the outer grills of the current 6.5's basically touch the underside of the upholstered bolsters on the gunnels...see pic. So I think 6.5's will be max for that reason alone.

          I definitely want to get a supplemental charging solution...and may think more strongly about your advice on two subs. Thx!
          2006 XStar
          Sold - 2001 X30
          Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by dpb185 View Post
            NOCO makes 10 and 20 amp dual battery chargers. I think when they say 10amp, it's 10amps total or 5 amps/battery:

            https://no.co/gen5x2

            https://no.co/genpro10x2
            Nice! Thanks for the suggestions. I will go look those up!
            2006 XStar
            Sold - 2001 X30
            Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BrushyCreekXS View Post

              Thanks for the comments and insights.

              My 2006 XStar came with the 3pairs of 6.5" + external tweeter...1-pair in the bow and 2-pair in the cabin, 2 towers also with external tweeters, and 1 - 10in IB Sub along with the amps mentioned above...I do not know what any of the stock speakers were rated...so hard to see how they sized the amp to the speakers...I think your M3's are rated 60W RMS if memory serves so you are providing 125W, which is more headroom than I was thinking, M6 is 75W RMS and I was thinking 100W per channel would be enough is that wrong?

              I too believe the 6.5 M6 would likely sound great with 3 pairs in that boat..so I don't think I want to go to the work of increasing cut-out size for all the holes to accommodate larger in-boats...

              Also, the outer grills of the current 6.5's basically touch the underside of the upholstered bolsters on the gunnels...see pic. So I think 6.5's will be max for that reason alone.

              I definitely want to get a supplemental charging solution...and may think more strongly about your advice on two subs. Thx!
              Yeah, it's just how it worked out at the time. I'm no expert and I had my shop install mine, but I'd think you'd be happy with ~100W for the M6 6.5's. I could have done those in the cabin, but in my bow, I definitely don't have the depth.

              On the sub(s), it's all about what space you have to work with, speaker selection and obviously installation/execution. I've heard the M6 10's, if done right, can sound great.
              ¡Viva 205V!
              2003 X2 MCX

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by brucemac View Post

                Yeah, it's just how it worked out at the time. I'm no expert and I had my shop install mine, but I'd think you'd be happy with ~100W for the M6 6.5's. I could have done those in the cabin, but in my bow, I definitely don't have the depth.
                One other thought/question on the sub...If I have the space to take the current 10" IB sub and increase it to a 12" IB vs. having 2 10" it would allow me to keep the current set up relative to location...it is the difference between 250W 10" to 600W 12"...that may sound better than 2 10" subs. What do you think?
                2006 XStar
                Sold - 2001 X30
                Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                Comment


                • #9
                  OK, anyone with some knowledge on this please advise...if you look at my first post in this thread, I show the config in my boat with 6 in boats, 2 tower, 1 sub and 2 amps - 6 channel e6450M + 2 channel e2150M

                  That is not enough channels and power for that many speakers. Anyone know how they are doing that...is the 6 channel amp using Channels 1-4 for the 6 in boats somehow and then bridging channels 5 and 6 to drive the sub and then using the 2 channel amp to drive the towers?

                  How do they wire the 4 channels to drive the 6 in boats?

                  Is it worth upgrading the amps and sub and tower speakers and try leaving the in boats, even though they are old, with more power and see how they sound before just yanking them out up front?

                  ??

                  2006 XStar
                  Sold - 2001 X30
                  Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I may be speaking to the wind with these posts lol but I will keep posting a bit longer to see if there is more interest from folks that know something much more than me...I was able to get back down to the water today and get to my boat...and have figured out more.

                    I made a bad assumption on my in-boats...they are 7.7's x6 so that was a nice surprise. The part number on the back was MC-7CWXC5-4...the OD of the grill was ~7 3/4 so 770's in modern model numbers...I don't know the specs yet, but they are woefully underpowered in my estimation.

                    I did look at the speaker connections to my amps and I had surmised their config correctly in previous post...Channels 1-4 of the e6450m are powering the 6 in-boat 7CWXC5-4's and Channels 5 and 6 are bridged and supplying 150W to the 10" IB Sub. The 2 channel e2150M is supplying power to two towers also with 7.7 towers.

                    It seems to make sense to me to upgrade the Head Unit and the amps and drive the speakers I have with more power and possibly add a sub to what I have and see if I like the sound vs. ripping it all out....

                    Any suggestions on head unit upgrade and amps? I am inclined to go back to JL for amps and maybe use their M Series. Is it a good assumption that each of these speakers are 4 ohms...I did not have a meter to check them. I assume they are 4 ohms and they are driving some of the in boats in parallel so the amp would see a 2 ohm load there.

                    -Andy
                    2006 XStar
                    Sold - 2001 X30
                    Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It seems like you’ve got things mostly figured out, but as far as the head unit is concerned, what features are you looking for? I’d guess 85% of everyone really just wants Bluetooth connectivity and multi-zone control. If that’s all you need, take a look at hidden devices.

                      I spent a bunch of money on a high end Fusion head unit in my old X1, that got mounted in the glove box. I put the rubber cover on it, and then honestly never saw it again — all control was done from the remote at the helm. Nobody ever played a CD or DVD, or used the head unit to select a radio station or anything. In retrospect, I could have saved myself $400 by getting a hideaway unit, covering up the hole in my glove box with a piece of ABS and getting on the water.

                      https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690864
                      I’m partial to the Fusion gear, it is all marine suitable and all but bullet proof. This compact box that can be mounted anywhere (hidden away) has three zones, bluetooth connectivity, WiFi capable, and great integration with either Apple or Android devices. It’s cheap price (for the quality) makes it a no-brainer if you don’t need to play CDs or other media. Pick up a remote control for the helm (you’ll want that even if you go with a more traditional head unit) and you have complete control from there. Add more remotes wherever you like in the boat if you feel you want to have transom control or easy reach from somewhere else. There are fully functional wired remotes and limited functionality wireless remotes. You can mix and match.

                      All of the options below are similar in concept to the Fusion unit — I’m a Fusion fanboy, so I know less about these devices:

                      https://clarionmarine.com/collection...ce-units-92805
                      https://wetsounds.com/WS-MC-1/

                      If a head unit with a faceplate is important to you, you can’t go wrong with the Fusion MS-RA770 https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/595303. I have one in my X25. It is mounted in the observer side dash (normal location for that boat), but even though it is easy to access, nobody ever takes the rubber cover off of it to use it. I have a remote at the helm, one in the bow, and a wireless unit on the stern. After having the unit installed for a season and a half, one day my son asked what was under the cover. I explained to him that it was the radio, and his response was, “Why”.

                      In a couple of years when I upgrade boats again (hopefully to an XT22), it’ll come with HK gear — I may still replace it with Fusion if I’m not happy with it.

                      On my X1, I went with JL MX series Amps. They were a bit of a pain to set up; input, output and xover settings are on the underside of the unit, sealed behind a watertight cover. I ran the cabin speakers on a pair of MX 500/4 https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...plifiers-98405, in bridged mode, one speaker per bridged channel running at 4 ohms, and that was plenty of power for the stock JL 7” component speakers, which sounded great despite their age. I had a second MX 500/4 running in bridged mode for my two Roswell Neptune 8.0 tower speakers. While not available any more, they were the precursors to the Roswell R1 Pro tower speakers https://www.roswellmarine.com/produc...ower-speakers/ that I have on my current boat.

                      —Sky

                      ------------------------------------------------
                      2006 X-1 Pumpkin Orange SOLD
                      2013 X25 Black, Green & Orange

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by skydyvyr View Post
                        It seems like you’ve got things mostly figured out, but as far as the head unit is concerned, what features are you looking for? I’d guess 85% of everyone really just wants Bluetooth connectivity and multi-zone control. If that’s all you need, take a look at hidden devices.

                        I spent a bunch of money on a high end Fusion head unit in my old X1, that got mounted in the glove box. I put the rubber cover on it, and then honestly never saw it again — all control was done from the remote at the helm. Nobody ever played a CD or DVD, or used the head unit to select a radio station or anything. In retrospect, I could have saved myself $400 by getting a hideaway unit, covering up the hole in my glove box with a piece of ABS and getting on the water.

                        https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690864
                        I’m partial to the Fusion gear, it is all marine suitable and all but bullet proof. This compact box that can be mounted anywhere (hidden away) has three zones, bluetooth connectivity, WiFi capable, and great integration with either Apple or Android devices. It’s cheap price (for the quality) makes it a no-brainer if you don’t need to play CDs or other media. Pick up a remote control for the helm (you’ll want that even if you go with a more traditional head unit) and you have complete control from there. Add more remotes wherever you like in the boat if you feel you want to have transom control or easy reach from somewhere else. There are fully functional wired remotes and limited functionality wireless remotes. You can mix and match.

                        All of the options below are similar in concept to the Fusion unit — I’m a Fusion fanboy, so I know less about these devices:

                        https://clarionmarine.com/collection...ce-units-92805
                        https://wetsounds.com/WS-MC-1/

                        If a head unit with a faceplate is important to you, you can’t go wrong with the Fusion MS-RA770 https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/595303. I have one in my X25. It is mounted in the observer side dash (normal location for that boat), but even though it is easy to access, nobody ever takes the rubber cover off of it to use it. I have a remote at the helm, one in the bow, and a wireless unit on the stern. After having the unit installed for a season and a half, one day my son asked what was under the cover. I explained to him that it was the radio, and his response was, “Why”.

                        In a couple of years when I upgrade boats again (hopefully to an XT22), it’ll come with HK gear — I may still replace it with Fusion if I’m not happy with it.

                        On my X1, I went with JL MX series Amps. They were a bit of a pain to set up; input, output and xover settings are on the underside of the unit, sealed behind a watertight cover. I ran the cabin speakers on a pair of MX 500/4 https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...plifiers-98405, in bridged mode, one speaker per bridged channel running at 4 ohms, and that was plenty of power for the stock JL 7” component speakers, which sounded great despite their age. I had a second MX 500/4 running in bridged mode for my two Roswell Neptune 8.0 tower speakers. While not available any more, they were the precursors to the Roswell R1 Pro tower speakers https://www.roswellmarine.com/produc...ower-speakers/ that I have on my current boat.

                        —Sky
                        Sky, Thanks for the post. I had noticed the hideaway head units when looking around but did not think to long about them...thanks for bringing that up! All we ever do is stream. If there is a way to upgrade it to work with airplay as well since it has some sort of wifi capability and bluetooth as a baseline that would be ideal. I will read about their wifi capability...but relative to radio, I would likely only stream XM through my app on my phone if it wasn't streaming Spotify etc...so that solution would definitely be worth it for me to consider...thx.

                        I wish I knew the specs for the in-boats and the towers that are in there...what I want to do is buy amps to drive what I have...consider adding a 2nd sub to the one I have and drive the crap out of them...I bet they would sound good powered well, because they sound decent now with not near enough power.

                        If I make the right amp choices I would like to be able to upgrade speakers later and then cost could be spread out...head unit and amps now. See how that sounds...add second sub. Then see how long that gets me before wanting new speakers if at all...but have the amp capacity to do a later upgrade without having to buy new amps again...That is what I will try to start thinking through.

                        -Andy
                        2006 XStar
                        Sold - 2001 X30
                        Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I put in a request with JL Audio to try and find out specs on the MC OEM part numbered speakers, (MC-7CWXC5-4), in my '06 XStar. He either couldn't or wouldn't supply the actual spec's but he did refer to them as 770s in our email exchange and in response to my request for RMS rating of the speakers.

                          I told him I wanted to power each separately not in parallel and to provide enough power to drive them to their potential...not sure why he could not cough up the ratings but he did say to bridge output of the new M series amp that I was planning to use and drive each with 200W and then dial it back to 150W using the amplifier level setting guide...using an AC Volt Meter and a sine-wave test tone recorded at 0dB reference level in the frequency range to be amplified....sounds like a PIA

                          I did inquire also about the M Series vs. the MHD Series. I was leaning to the M Series but wanted his input. Got some good data.

                          He did not typically suggest MHD since they have regulated power supplies. They will pull more current to keep power consistent if voltage drops. The M series are not regulated, but usually deliver rated power down to 11 volts and more than rated above 12.5 and you don't have the effect of them drawing more current if voltage dips, which it always does.

                          I am going to try and figure out the best mix of M Series Amps...seems like it will need to be a lot of capacity...6x in-boats bridged to 200W per channel will take 12 channels and then four channels to bridge to the current subwoofer and 2nd added additional sub at 200 watts each. Then need 4 more channels for the two towers....

                          I am curious if it will matter that I plan to add a new sub non matched to the one I have...I guess powering them separately and then putting them in different locations of the boat is nothing like having them side by side in a car and getting cancellation.

                          Anyway...if anyone sees something stupid here or has a good suggestion on how to power all these speakers better or differently I would like to hear.

                          Also, my present amps are AB vs D with the new amps. I personally like the sound from AB Amps but they are a lot less efficient. And I am adding a lot of watts with this scheme I am upgrading to...

                          Is a 2 battery system still good enough?



                          Thanks,
                          Andy
                          2006 XStar
                          Sold - 2001 X30
                          Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You can certainly go with AB amps over D, and they definitely provide a better audio experience, but if you’re gonna run 200W/channel for 12 channels of AB amps, you’re gonna want more batteries, and likely an alternator upgrade — all for power you’ll likely never use. On top of that, all those amp PSUs will generate a lot of heat in an enclosed space. In an AB amp, this power draw and heat generation is the same, regardless of volume.

                            On my X1, we had 4 JL 770s (same speakers you have) to which I was supplying 140W/speaker at 4ohms, probably tuned down to 100-120W/ speaker using a multimeter. For us, audio levels started to get painful at about 60% volume. We typically ran at 20-25% volume. This was only the cabin speakers, with the single sub and two tower speakers added in, we typically ran between 15-20% volume when underway. With my D amps, I easily ran the audio on a single house battery, (I also had a separate starting battery) and my stock alternator easily kept up. I don’t have power at the dock where I tie the boat up, so I don’t have any other onboard charging options — I’d have needed more batteries and had to pull them each night to charge them after each day on the water if I had gone with AB amps.

                            With all the AB amps you need, and the power you’re talking about, your stock alternator will probably struggle to keep up, meaning that with your stereo turned on, even at low volume, and the engine running, you may be draining, not charging your batteries.

                            While I’m not a mobile audio guy, I regularly work with some of the world’s largest audio systems. As a concert audio engineer, I have an appreciation for loud, and absolute love the nuance of vinyl being played over tube amps. At home, or in the studio, in relatively controlled environments, where the nuanced quality differences between AB and D amps can be clearly heard, AB is definitely my preference. In a boat, with less than ideal speaker placement and audio ‘noise’ from the wind, engine, and all the other floating boom boxes on the lake, the nuance is lost, making the compromise of D amps not really noticeable.

                            All this being said, it is definitely your money, your effort, and your ears. For mine, D amps make a lot of sense, lower power requirements, less heat, reasonable quality, lower cost (when you factor in batteries, alternator, etc) and lower effort are the obvious choice.

                            Of course, with anything you read on the interwebs, the S/N ratio of this post may be less than I might might prefer, so do with it what you will —as always, YMMV…

                            —Sky
                            ------------------------------------------------
                            2006 X-1 Pumpkin Orange SOLD
                            2013 X25 Black, Green & Orange

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by skydyvyr View Post
                              You can certainly go with AB amps over D, and they definitely provide a better audio experience, but if you’re gonna run 200W/channel for 12 channels of AB amps, you’re gonna want more batteries, and likely an alternator upgrade — all for power you’ll likely never use. On top of that, all those amp PSUs will generate a lot of heat in an enclosed space. In an AB amp, this power draw and heat generation is the same, regardless of volume.

                              On my X1, we had 4 JL 770s (same speakers you have) to which I was supplying 140W/speaker at 4ohms, probably tuned down to 100-120W/ speaker using a multimeter. For us, audio levels started to get painful at about 60% volume. We typically ran at 20-25% volume. This was only the cabin speakers, with the single sub and two tower speakers added in, we typically ran between 15-20% volume when underway. With my D amps, I easily ran the audio on a single house battery, (I also had a separate starting battery) and my stock alternator easily kept up. I don’t have power at the dock where I tie the boat up, so I don’t have any other onboard charging options — I’d have needed more batteries and had to pull them each night to charge them after each day on the water if I had gone with AB amps.

                              With all the AB amps you need, and the power you’re talking about, your stock alternator will probably struggle to keep up, meaning that with your stereo turned on, even at low volume, and the engine running, you may be draining, not charging your batteries.

                              While I’m not a mobile audio guy, I regularly work with some of the world’s largest audio systems. As a concert audio engineer, I have an appreciation for loud, and absolute love the nuance of vinyl being played over tube amps. At home, or in the studio, in relatively controlled environments, where the nuanced quality differences between AB and D amps can be clearly heard, AB is definitely my preference. In a boat, with less than ideal speaker placement and audio ‘noise’ from the wind, engine, and all the other floating boom boxes on the lake, the nuance is lost, making the compromise of D amps not really noticeable.

                              All this being said, it is definitely your money, your effort, and your ears. For mine, D amps make a lot of sense, lower power requirements, less heat, reasonable quality, lower cost (when you factor in batteries, alternator, etc) and lower effort are the obvious choice.

                              Of course, with anything you read on the interwebs, the S/N ratio of this post may be less than I might might prefer, so do with it what you will —as always, YMMV…

                              —Sky
                              Sky, thanks for the post. I agree wholeheartedly. My current amps are AB but I'm only pushing 45 - 75 per speaker and 150W to the single sub. I had already made the decision to move to the M Series amps if I stay with JL amps and now I am trying to make the tradeoffs of how much to drive each speaker with. Since I have power run and an easier setup to try and solve with two amps I may figure out the best compromise by using two of the M800/8 amps to drive 6 in-boats + 2 towers + 1 sub or add a sub and have 6 + 2 + 2subs.

                              I don't know if that makes good sense sound wise so that is what I am trying to work through now.

                              If I have 2 of the M800/8 2x which is 2x 100 W x 8 @ 2 Ω / 75 W x 8 @ 4 Ω - 14.4V; what might be the best way to configure that power across the speakers I have...

                              or just go ahead and use the 2 M800/8 and add an M400/4 and bridge every speaker.

                              I do plan to add supplemental charging so I can charge at my dock.

                              Thx,
                              Andy
                              2006 XStar
                              Sold - 2001 X30
                              Sold - 1994 Prostar 190

                              Comment

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