Looking for Audio Upgrade Advice

[dnadrifter]

Thinking about possible upgrade to my existing system on my 2006 X15 at the end of the season and would like to solicit opinions and advice. I would like to understand what might make the biggest difference in sound quality in the boat… (not behind it)

It isn’t that it sounds bad, but I guess I would just like it to be clearer with more punch and possibly easier to hear when running at 15-20 mph. I also just don’t want to throw money away that might not make a difference.

I would really appreciate any opinions.

Current System

Original stock head unit, speakers, and sub

• (4) JL Audio M770 component speakers
• JL Audio 10” sub – infinite baffle
• Clarion CMD 4 with remote controls at driver seat and stern

JL Audio Bluetooth BMT-RX connected to AUX: (99% of music)

JL Audio M800/8 Amplifier (below #s are at 4ohms)

• Channel 1/2: Bow Speakers = 2 x 75W RMS
• Channel 3/4, 5/6: Cockpit Speakers = 2 x 200W RMS (bridged)
• Channel 7/8: Sub = 1 x 200W RMS (bridged)

Considerations and Options

• Add an additional/new amplifier for the sub and utilize M800/8 for all 4 cabin speakers at 200W x 4
  • JL M600/1, 400W x1, $650
  • Wetsounds HTX-1, 330W/1, $650
  • Kicker 48KXMA400.2, 400W/1, $379
  • Rockford Fosgate M2-500X1, 300w/1, $320
• Reroute existing power and ground cable from the battery to attempt to separate it from speaker wiring and RCA cable as best possible (MC ran everything together)
• Replace old cockpit pair of speakers with JL Audio M6 7.7s
• Replace old sub with new JL 10” M6 Sub, infinite baffle…..maybe try to fit a 12” into the same location behind driver. I don’t think it will fit though.

[BrushyCreekXS]

dnadrifter

Hi drifter,

if you saw my other concurrent post I am leaning towards the MHD amps. That design may help with noise as well. I am going to go ahead and upgrade the HU, try to provide better input to amps, integrate the Bluetooth.

I’m also going to upgrade the sub to 12”

if you are going to stay with your current speaker config I like the idea of driving your in boats with the M800/8, and driving the sub with a new amp. Personal preference, I like your JL choice.

may want to consider HU upgrade. M608 wouldn’t be too hard to do except for remote if you upgrade it.

just some thoughts that are parallel to what I’m doing.

good luck!

[dnadrifter]

dnadrifter

Hi drifter,



may want to consider HU upgrade. M608 wouldn’t be too hard to do except for remote if you upgrade it.

just some thoughts that are parallel to what I’m doing.

good luck!

Thanks. Is your understanding the head unit can make a difference, even if just using bluetooth from the external component. That JL BT component is really good iMO....not a huge difference in that vs CD quality to my ears.

[MLA]

• JL M600/1, 400W x1, $650
• Wetsounds HTX-1, 330W/1, $650
• Kicker 48KXMA400.2, 400W/1, $379
• Rockford Fosgate M2-500X1, 300w/1, $320

As a huge Kicker fan, the bridged 400.2 would be my last choice here. Its got a fixed infrasonic filter, and its likely to low for my liking when paired with an IB woofer. The M600/1 is fixed at 30Hz or OFF. This a little better for a small IB woofer. The HTX-1 is selectable between 10 and 50 Hz.

I would consider two 10" or a single 12". Four 7.7 bridged on the amp is going to be a lot of highs for one mild 10" to balance out.

So I would make my final woofer(s) choice before making a final decision on the amp.

[BrushyCreekXS]

Thanks. Is your understanding the head unit can make a difference, even if just using bluetooth from the external component. That JL BT component is really good iMO....not a huge difference in that vs CD quality to my ears.

I guess I can’t say for sure on the HU sound quality since I have no way of comparing them side by side. However, I have read some comments on threads here and on THT site that said there was a noticeable improvement in sound quality with the M608 over the CMD4 . I am hoping that is the case, but I am also doing it for the 4 zone control.

[dnadrifter]

• JL M600/1, 400W x1, $650
• Wetsounds HTX-1, 330W/1, $650
• Kicker 48KXMA400.2, 400W/1, $379
• Rockford Fosgate M2-500X1, 300w/1, $320

As a huge Kicker fan, the bridged 400.2 would be my last choice here. Its got a fixed infrasonic filter, and its likely to low for my liking when paired with an IB woofer. The M600/1 is fixed at 30Hz or OFF. This a little better for a small IB woofer. The HTX-1 is selectable between 10 and 50 Hz.

I would consider two 10" or a single 12". Four 7.7 bridged on the amp is going to be a lot of highs for one mild 10" to balance out.

So I would make my final woofer(s) choice before making a final decision on the amp.

Thanks, MLA. I was hoping you would offer advice at some point. I always appreciate reading your insight in these audio threads. I wasn't aware of infrasonic filters. Appreciate the heads up.

In looking at 12" subs, they are pretty expensive compared to 10"s. If I simply add a second 10" to my existing 15yr 10" old sub, how much will I be limited by the old one. How much better would purchasing two new 10"....would probably have to go M3 if this was the case and sticking with JL.

[skydyvyr]

Just my opinion, but 10’s really don’t offer a significant low end frequency benefit over the 7.7” drivers in the JL speakers in your boat. Adding more 10” speakers is unlikely to address this issue. I’d argue that money and effort spent on adding another 10” speaker, particularly an IB 10” will offer little or no benefit. Although it may be cheaper, the 10” is a compromise as a sub, unless deployed in a tuned and ported cabinet, something that you’re unlikely to do in a boat.

To measurably increase the volume of your sub bass by adding a 10” speaker, you’d also need to add an amplifier, bringing the cost of adding a second 10” speaker much higher than replacing your existing 10” with a 12” speaker.

—Sky

[dnadrifter]

Just my opinion, but 10’s really don’t offer a significant low end frequency benefit over the 7.7” drivers in the JL speakers in your boat. Adding more 10” speakers is unlikely to address this issue. I’d argue that money and effort spent on adding another 10” speaker, particularly an IB 10” will offer little or no benefit. Although it may be cheaper, the 10” is a compromise as a sub, unless deployed in a tuned and ported cabinet, something that you’re unlikely to do in a boat.

To measurably increase the volume of your sub bass by adding a 10” speaker, you’d also need to add an amplifier, bringing the cost of adding a second 10” speaker much higher than replacing your existing 10” with a 12” speaker.

—Sky

Thanks for your thoughts Sky. I am likely getting another amp anyway, but your point about the 12" vs the 10" is well taken and was kind of my initial thinking before looking at price and then MLA mentioned two 10s.

• Have you (anyone else) successfully seen the 10" hole behind the driver made bigger and successfully held a 12"?
• Any appreciable difference replacing the old 10" with a new M6 10"?
• Looks like Wetsounds has a REVO 12" for about $500 instead of the $1000 JL is asking. Maybe that is a route. Looks like the hole opening is a bit smaller too.

[BrushyCreekXS]

dnadrifter, My plan is to upgrade the 10" to 12"...I would like to use the M7 JL 12"...however I am thinking it does not fit...at least not easily. You may have a similar space in your 06 X15 as I do in my 06 Star. The 10" has an OD of grille of 10.75 " but the 12" has OD of 14"

You would have to enlarge the mounting hole from 8.875 in / 225 mm to 12.0625 in / 306 mm which looks doable but the grille looks to crash into floor in that location...I did not have a tape measure so it was just visual...but I didn't think it would fit there...that makes it a tougher call.

Pic is 10" Sub currently.

[bcd]

When I was having the sub debate, I also didn't think a 12" would fit on my boat. I added a second IB 10" below the coffin seat with a new dedicated amp to power both subs. I'm pretty impressed with how it sounds, but it definitely doesn't hit like my last boat with a 12" boxed sub with 1000 W RMS to it. (That was stowed inside the coffin seat and took up a lot of room.) It does sound way better than the under powered single factory sub. There is thread out there on adding the second sub. Can't remember the name of who documented it.

[bcd]

Cockpit Audio Upgrades 2013 X2 - TeamTalk (mastercraft.com)

Check out post #22.

[BrushyCreekXS]

Cockpit Audio Upgrades 2013 X2 - TeamTalk (mastercraft.com)

Check out post #22.

Thanks for the pointer bcd! looks like an interesting thread, I'll go through it...I am pretty bummed on this point because I thought I had my game plan and was looking forward to upgrading to then M7 where the 10" IB location is and going with a single 12.

[MLA]

Thanks for your thoughts Sky. I am likely getting another amp anyway, but your point about the 12" vs the 10" is well taken and was kind of my initial thinking before looking at price and then MLA mentioned two 10s.

• Have you (anyone else) successfully seen the 10" hole behind the driver made bigger and successfully held a 12"?
• Any appreciable difference replacing the old 10" with a new M6 10"?
• Looks like Wetsounds has a REVO 12" for about $500 instead of the $1000 JL is asking. Maybe that is a route. Looks like the hole opening is a bit smaller too.

Yes, as mention, with the new wattage to the 770, I would suggest two 10" woofers. Thats actually about 40% more surface are v's a single 12".

Two of your mono amps listed, will power two 4 ohm woofer, so im not sure I understand the adding of a 2nd woofer amp to drive a 2nd amp.

I know it may stretch the budget to stick with the M6 woofers, but understand, they have more excursion over the M3, so thats like extra surface area that moving more air.

[dnadrifter]

Two of your mono amps listed, will power two 4 ohm woofer, so im not sure I understand the adding of a 2nd woofer amp to drive a 2nd amp.

I think I misread the earlier post. Yeah, I would need to add two new amps if I go with two subs.

Or maybe one M400/4 (200W x2)?

[bcd]

Why don't you get a single mono amp and bridge both subs to it at a 2 ohm load? That's what I did, and what I think SS LS1 did.