X30 Ballast makeover, most for surfing.

[CantRepeat]

Hey all,

I've been doing a lot of changes to my X30 in an effort to build a better surf wake. I believe a lot of the sub task might come in handy for other purposes but will post them here as they all impact the surf wake.


What I've done or will be doing to the boat.

Move the batteries to starboard - I surf port (see this thread.)
Add a second through hull water source, I'll post that here.
Wire up a 4th pump - Switch, relay, breaker, pump mount (the right way? well the MC way)
Custom 1400 surf sac design filled with two pumps. - purchased through wakemaker.com


I hope you can use this information for your future projects.



I added a 4th ballast pump to fill the larger surf sac and also added one of these manifolds from wakemakers so I could use the starboard side pump to help fill the surf sack.


This is my parts list.

• Jabsco Wakeboard Ballast Puppy Reversible Pump - From WakeMakers
• Carling Toggle Switch - LT-2561-601-012 Wesgrade
• VF28-35F14-Z05 Marine Relay - Onlinecomponents.com
• Bussmann 20 Amp. CB174B-20 - Mouser
• Delphi relay socket - Mouser
• Delphi connectors and seals 12/20, 16/14 - All from Performance Connection Systems
• 5 cavity Delphi 12110540 Metri-pack 280 secondary TPA lock Mouser
• Homemade breaker panel 3/16th stainless steel TIG welded ends.

If you are going to use the Delphi Metri pack sockets you're also going to need the Delphi crimping tool . They are pricey but well worth the investment if you use the system.

All of these components are the same ones the factory installed in the boat. Some I purchased from MC Rambo Marine others from outside vendors. The Carling switch is the one MC uses. Wesgrade has them and they are $5.85 for one but you they have a $50 min order. You can get them from Lex at Rambo for $20. If I ever had to make a system from the ground up I'd just buy the $50 bucks worth.


In this post I'll outline the wiring of the dash switch, the two relays, the circuit breaker and the new pump.


Here is the dissected wiring schematic. The numbers indicate the wire gage. Also, on the switch the red wire is connected to both the top and bottom poles.



After I finally received all the correct parts I assembled the panel. I drill a 1/2 hole from panel to panel to pass the wires through. If you are doing this from scratch I'd make up just one large panel and in the future I might just redo this one.



Here is what the MC panel and my panel, for the 4th pump, look like once connected and wired.



Then just reinstall the panel to the back of the seat in the port locker.




Hopefully someone can use this info on their project.

[CantRepeat]

I was going to layup a glass block for the 4th pump but then saw a better way. I made a SS mount and then just attached to the hull tie down points behind the back wall cover. Super easy spot to get to.

[CantRepeat]

So I figured I post a good how-to on through hull ballast pick ups.

1. Location:

Finding a good location for the through hull ballast pick up. You'll need to locate the pick up and the best way to do that is by measuring from a hard point of reference on the bottom of your boat. I would suggest using either the current engine water pick up or the through hull for your prop shaft. Both of these points are easy to find both inside and outside of the boat. When laying out the location keep in mind that you will need to clear any obstructions inside the boat as well. With this in mind I suggest you move far enough away from the center line that you will clear the motor and transmission.

Once you have this location on the bottom of the boat tape it off with masking tape. Now inside the boat you'll need to locate the same spot and mask it off as well. The tape keeps the gel coat and fiberglass from splintering too much.



Once you have it tape off get your shut off valve and check to make sure the location you have selected has enough room to clear the valve. Keep in mind that you will need to thread it onto the through hull so you'll need room to rotate the valve as well as operate the valve once install.


2. Drilling:

Once all the taping and clearance checking is done you'll need to start your drilling. Hold your hole saw up to the location you have pick on the bottom of the boat and then trace the outside of hole saw onto the tape.




The purpose of drawing the outline is so you can drill a pilot hole. DO NOT DRILL YOUR HOLE WITHOUT DOING A PILOT HOLE. Drill the pilot hole first using just a single small bit. Remove the bit from your drill and screw it back into the hole. With the drill bit back in the hole get back in the boat and double check that the location is still good and has the needed clearance for the shut off valve.

Here is a case in point:



The solid yellow dot represents the first pilot hole. I drilled the pilot hole and check for clearance in the boat. I found that I was too close to the oil pan and that I needed to move to the starboard side more. The issue is, if I would have used the hole saw with out first using a pilot hole I would have not been able to change the through hull location with a costly repair. Sure I'd have shown my sack by just winging it but I'd be looking at a costly repair. But since I only used a pilot bit I can move the pilot bit over(red dot) and recheck the clearance. By using a very small pilot bit I can move the final through location any where with in range of the size of the hole saw(the yellow ring). In my case that was about a half an inch. The final through hole is the red ring and the first pilot hole will be inside of it and not cause an issue.

Now that I have check the clearance I can complete the drilling with the hole saw.



You'll need to take a round file and chamfer the edges of both the top and bottom of the hole at a 45 degree angle. This will keep the gel coat and the fiber glass from cracking/splintering. Once you have completed this remove the tape and clean the area with some mineral spirits.

Also note in the photo above there was a little open space between hull and inner lamination. Note sure why it was like that but I filled it with 3M 4000 marine adhesive sealant and let it dry for night. In the morning I ran my hole saw back through it. You may or may not run into this.

3. Through Hull install:

The only thing left to do is install your through hull and connect your check valve. I used a 1 inch brass mushroom through hull I purchased from wakemakers. I also used 3M 4000 marine adhesive.

http://www.wakemakers.com/bronze-mushroom-thru-hull-intake.html

Coast guard requires metal check valves on any fitting below the water line.



Nothing left to do but enjoy your ballast system.

Good luck and please ask any questions or offer suggestions.

[CantRepeat]

And then something about sacks here?

[CantRepeat]

I got the surf step completed today.

I used some PT 5/1-4 board from Home Depot. Since this an experiment I didn't want to commit to teak yet.


Custom brackets, they are 6 inches shorter then factory.




The platform is a full foot shorter in the center and 6 inches shorter on the sides and is just 50 inches wide.

[nickespi]

Looking good! Can't wait to see it's surf wake.

[CantRepeat]

I've been doing some reading and watching videos and I've been seeing a lot of talk about swim steps messing up surf wakes.

I think I'm going to make a custom step that will only be as wide as the two mounting points and maybe 1 to 1.5 feet long. It's going to just be big enough to load up surfers.

I ordered some 3/16 x 3 inch stainless steel for the brackets. I need to get my hands on some teak now.

[V-man]

I have designed a custom platform for 07 X45. Mastercraft of AZ has the design and can make one for you to match your boat.

[CantRepeat]

I have designed a custom platform for 07 X45. Mastercraft of AZ has the design and can make one for you to match your boat.

Thanks for the offer Vman, but I do pretty much all my own work. I don't have much else to do with my time.

I would like to see some photos of your platform if you don't mind.

[V-man]

I took my swim deck off and laid it upside down on a sheath of 3/4 in plywood. I traced the V notch on the plywood and cut it to fit just outside the brackets. I Attached the prototype to the brackets and took the boat out for a demo. Worked great. Then, I brought the demo deck to Mastercraft and they had their glass guy make a mold and in about a week I had a new surf deck.

[Brian B]

^ Thats sick! What boat do you have? Donavon is the man!

[Brian B]

Say you're surfing port side, are you running starboard ballast? My X10 seems to have a slightly better wave with ballast on non surf side as well......

[CantRepeat]

Hey Brain, how much difference are you seeing in your wave if you fill the starboard side while surfing port?

Vman, what is the length of the platform from that center point to the back of your boat? Are you using standard mounting brackets on the new platform?

I never thought about making it like a V. I was going to pretty much just make it as wide as the brackets on the boat and only about a 1 or 1 and half long.

[Brian B]

Hey Brain, how much difference are you seeing in your wave if you fill the starboard side while surfing port?

Its kind of hard to tell. I added 540lb sac to the port locker before looking into the difference. Next trip out I will try both. Do you guys generally run forward ballast for surfing?

[CantRepeat]

Its kind of hard to tell. I added 540lb sac to the port locker before looking into the difference. Next trip out I will try both. Do you guys generally run forward ballast for surfing?

I run a 450 sac in the walk way. It cleans the lip up a lot.

Next time out I'm gonna try filling the starboard side while surfing port to see if the added weight makes for some growth in the wave.