Ballast System Install

[JMLVMI]

Very cool...love the fact you're using OEM parts. Planning on doing the same with the heater button (swapping out an ACC button) and armrest plate filler from GLS.

[KnoxX2]

Only if you were a Buckeye Jersey.

Not on your life!!!!! However I will have gas money and beer!

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UPS brought me a big box from WakeMakers today! Hopefully I can get some more done this weekend.

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I have started to lay out some of the parts. I started by making a simulated mount out of a piece of scrap wood to check for clearances for the valves and thru hulls and also to verify the hole saw size. This made it easy to assemble the parts in the bilge area.
The rear valve will feed the starboard bag and the front will feed the bow bag.

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I found something kind of interesting when I was looking at the pump mounting blocks, I was going to pre drill and screw the Johnson pumps to the transom blocks until I noticed right above the bocks are the thru hull bolted rear tie up hooks and this got me thinking.......no way would these be the same bolt pattern as the pumps??????

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PERECT FIT!!!!!!! I know I can only bolt down one side (2 bolts), but this has to be as strong as 4 wood screws??? and makes the pumps easier to remove. I will try it (and monitor) to see if they are sturdy enough but for now this is how I will proceed.

Tonight I will wire the pumps.

Tomorrow, I will run the hose to the front bag. I need to do this first to determine which side to place the front pump. Once this is done I can start the drill for the thru hulls.

[CantRepeat]

One very critical point about doing through holes, it's in a lot of the write ups.

Also just drill the pilot holes first without the hole saw attached. Then leave the bit in the hole and check inside and out for clearance. If you need to move the hole you have at least the size of the hole saw to do it.

[CantRepeat]

I don't think the bolts will line up. I made a little SS bracket to mount a pump next to them.

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Nice plate Tim, the Jabsco must have a different mounting pattern. When I found out that mine would bolt up with the 2 nuts, I thought this was better than mounting with 4 wood screws. Time will tell I guess, but it sure is easier to mount and remove if needed.

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This is what the mounting bracket of the pump looks like:

[rgardjr1]

Good job with your project! I bought a used Duestch crimper on Ebay and resold it a few weeks later when I needed one to replace a speedo on my motorcycle. The Duestch sockets and pins that came with mine were hollow and the wires just slid inside. I think I could have just soldered them, but I bought and resold the crimping tool. There are the other style that have tabs that fold over and those would be difficult to do with out the right tool-it sounds like Tim has you covered and you could butt splice or solder and heat shrink. I just remembered that one of my winter projects is to swap out the relay for my center pump in the breaker box. I was having to tap on the box last summer to get it to turn on.

[CantRepeat]

This is what the mounting bracket of the pump looks like:

Yeah that plate is a lot different.

Sweet that it fit on there with no fuss!!

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Made a lot of headway today:

Got both rear pumps mounted and wired. Mounted the bow sac pump under the rear seat and got it wired also.

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Next I got the bow sac pumped and hooked up.

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One of the more difficult things was putting a "Y" fitting it the bow supply line. I did this thinking it would help the wrap around bow sac fill and drain more evenly (feeding both sides of the sac). It was kinda tuff to install the fitting in the bilge access.