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2011 port ballast timer issue

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  • 2011 port ballast timer issue

    I’m having an issue with my port side ballast. It will fill but not empty. The pump does not even run when switched to empty. It’s definitely not the pump because I switched the wires coming out of the jabsco timer box and used the kgb knob to empty the port side.
    I did check the wires coming from the AI box and I’m getting 12volts out of the jabsco AI when the port switch is on fill, but no voltage when it’s on empty. This is a 2011 X25 with BIG screen. I just bought it this September. I’m new to wakeboats, but I have gotten a lot of info from team talk. Any help would be appreciated. Trying not to get frustrated.

  • #2
    Did you check the timer in the big screen?
    Aric


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    • #3
      I went to viper diagnostics ->ballast timer, and it was set to whatever the starboard was set on.

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      • #4
        If it’s setup like the older versions its probably a bad relay. I had the same problem with mine and I could tap on the box that holds the timers and relays and get it to kick on.
        2006 Maristar 200 SS

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        • #5
          Yup, sounds like a bad relay
          '07 Navy Blue X2 MCX
          http://www.wakeblaster.com/
          Ballast Timer Reprogramming Info
          Timer Reprogramming Thread

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          • #6
            Is it possible to replace the relay and not replace the entire box? Or do y’all know of someone who does this? I’m 4-5hrs from any MC shop, and it would be a lot easier to send off or if it’s easy I can just replace the relay myself.
            Thanks for yalls help.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Hmbone View Post
              Is it possible to replace the relay and not replace the entire box? Or do y’all know of someone who does this? I’m 4-5hrs from any MC shop, and it would be a lot easier to send off or if it’s easy I can just replace the relay myself.
              Thanks for yalls help.
              Yes you can easily replace the relay. I'm pretty sure the relays in my ballast box were these exact ones:
              https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
              You should find your ballast breaker control box and take a look at the relays. You can probably source them at your local auto parts store.
              2006 Maristar 200 SS

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              • #8
                So I finally found time to remove my AI box. I was going to replace the bad relay, but I can’t figure out how to remove it. It looks like they are permanently in there. Does anyone have experience with these Jabsco AI3 boxes? Any advice is welcome.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Hmbone View Post
                  I’m having an issue with my port side ballast. It will fill but not empty. The pump does not even run when switched to empty. It’s definitely not the pump because I switched the wires coming out of the jabsco timer box and used the kgb knob to empty the port side.

                  I did check the wires coming from the AI box and I’m getting 12volts out of the jabsco AI when the port switch is on fill, but no voltage when it’s on empty. This is a 2011 X25 with BIG screen. I just bought it this September. I’m new to wakeboats, but I have gotten a lot of info from team talk. Any help would be appreciated. Trying not to get frustrated.


                  When I had this it was a bad switch, a corroded contact on one side. Did you try a different switch wired to the same relay?

                  TH


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  • #10
                    Yeah, it’s not the switch because it turns on the starboard pump when I change the connections to my AI box.

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                    • #11
                      An update on my issue, the relays in the Jabsco AI 3 are permanently soldered to the board. I tried sending it to a computer repair guy, but he couldn’t get the relay removed without damaging the connection to the BIG screen.
                      Next I ordered a new Jabsco box to replace the faulty one. After installing the new timer box, nothing worked. All switches were dead at the main plate under the throttle.
                      After a lot of team talk reading, I traced the power supply to the timer box back to my perko switch, and I found a 60amp in line fuse that had blown(fuse cover said stereo). I replaced it and it blew again.
                      Next I put my old Jabsco box back on and replaced the fuse. The fuse didn’t blow this time. I then tested the ballast switches and now they all work. I’m guessing the relay “unstuck” in transport to Florida. Anyway if none of your ballast switches work a good place to look is the inline fuse on the back of your battery on/off switch.

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