Constant Beep When Running 2003 x2

[ShuManChu]

If you'd like a part number, my alternator is the NAPA 8467.

I notice that this part says "Flame arrestor screens for safety." Is this all that is required for a boat alternator to not ignite gas vapor in the engine compartment? I assumed there was more to it than that but I don't really know.

Trhodes, I agree with what soder recommended, take the batteries and alternator in for a bench test to be certain they are OK before doing any diagnosis of faulty wiring.

On the belt tension issue, the rule of thumb if you don't have a belt tension gauge, is that you should be able to only rotate the belt 90 degrees (check this while the belt is stationary obviously). This should be a quick check. See RDahler's post num 62 here: https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/for...37#post2225037

[Trhodes]

Then it might just be your regular systems pulling more current than your charging system can handle. Having your gauges go dead is also a sign of low voltage. If they don't get a full 12V to operate, they may not operate at all.

I would still start with getting your battery tested at your local Batteries+Bulbs or automotive store. If you have two batteries, the house battery would be the one I'd worry about the most but would check both of them regardless.

If your battery is good, the next step is to pull your alternator and take it to an auto store to have them bench test it. They will ask what vehicle it came out of so they can match connectors. I have a 2004 MCX and I tell them I have a 1994 Chevy Pickup with the 5.7L. That gets them the right connectors. If I tell them it's out of a boat, I get the strangest reactions. If you'd like a part number, my alternator is the NAPA 8467.

While your alternator is off, I'd replace the belt. I had a situation very similar to yours last year. I was going crazy but it was just my belt slipping on the alternator because my alternator mounting bracket mounting bolt was broken and couldn't get enough tension on the belt. Sadly I replaced my alternator when I didn't need to.

We are still frozen in here in Utah, but if you want to do a fast check without pulling parts out of your boat and you have the ability, have someone else drive while you sit with a hand-held volt meter connected to your battery. Watch how the voltage behaves especially in comparison to your alarms/gauges not working, stereo cutting out etc. Write down what your voltage is doing as these events are occurring. Do this through 3 or 4 cycles so you see the patterns. This may also help you understand the situation better. If you do this, please share back your results.

Will definitely try this, thanks for the tips Soder and bturner2

[bturner2]

My thoughts and how I would go after this.....

First Soder knows his stuff and I would certainly run down any advise he offers on this subject. If you haven't replaced the belt doing so would certainly be a good thing to do regardless. That's a relatively cheap maintenance item I'd do right off the bat.

Back to wiring..... I had an 03 X2 so I know this boat fairly good. Mine, as most boats from this time period were known for marginal wiring and grounding issues. The gauge set was from the first gen servo driven crap Medallion package which was very sensitive to voltage and grounding(look up my posts on this and other electrical issues I had with my boat on this site from years ago). It ended up being the canary in the coal mine for power issues. Meaning, if you had the slightest issue with power the gauges would start acting up. If you want to fix this yourself you're going to need to start at one end and work your way to the other. I would start at the batteries. Pull them out and get them load tested. If you get anything other than very good condition, replace them.

Next is wiring. IMO, everything on my boat was undersized by at least 1 gauge in wiring and in some cases more so. When the boat was new the electrical was marginal, now your boat is 20 years old. Back in 2007 when I had my boat I made new, larger power and ground cables to the battery and another set going to the dash. This fixed about 80% of my gauge but even with the new cables I still had to put a noise filter on the power going to the Perfect Pass to fix the issues I was having with it. That should tell you something about the wiring right there. If you're not into wholesale electrical replacement (and I certainly wouldn't blame you) you're next best move would be to start doing voltage drop tests on the wiring. You're getting low voltage and something has to be causing it. If the alternator is putting out the correct voltage and the batteries are good then the drop is occurring somewhere else. On this boat all my money would be on wiring.

[Soder]

Then it might just be your regular systems pulling more current than your charging system can handle. Having your gauges go dead is also a sign of low voltage. If they don't get a full 12V to operate, they may not operate at all.

I would still start with getting your battery tested at your local Batteries+Bulbs or automotive store. If you have two batteries, the house battery would be the one I'd worry about the most but would check both of them regardless.

If your battery is good, the next step is to pull your alternator and take it to an auto store to have them bench test it. They will ask what vehicle it came out of so they can match connectors. I have a 2004 MCX and I tell them I have a 1994 Chevy Pickup with the 5.7L. That gets them the right connectors. If I tell them it's out of a boat, I get the strangest reactions. If you'd like a part number, my alternator is the NAPA 8467.

While your alternator is off, I'd replace the belt. I had a situation very similar to yours last year. I was going crazy but it was just my belt slipping on the alternator because my alternator mounting bracket mounting bolt was broken and couldn't get enough tension on the belt. Sadly I replaced my alternator when I didn't need to.

We are still frozen in here in Utah, but if you want to do a fast check without pulling parts out of your boat and you have the ability, have someone else drive while you sit with a hand-held volt meter connected to your battery. Watch how the voltage behaves especially in comparison to your alarms/gauges not working, stereo cutting out etc. Write down what your voltage is doing as these events are occurring. Do this through 3 or 4 cycles so you see the patterns. This may also help you understand the situation better. If you do this, please share back your results.

[Trhodes]

I would start by checking your charging system (alternator, battery, wiring). Cranking the tunes pulls a lot of amps from your battery thus lowering its voltage if your alternator can’t keep it charged. If your battery gets too low (I believe below 11.5V), you will get the alarm. This may also cause your audio to stop because it’s not getting enough volts/amps. The weak charging system may catch up after a few minutes of the audio being off and things work again. Then the cycle continues.

Then, of course, I could be completely wrong.

The problem happens even when I do not have the speakers playing, so the speakers pulling too much shouldnt be an issue

[robadele]

None of your gauges work? You might want to fix that before you get stranded. No engine water temp, no fuel level, no volts, no oil pressure.

[lakedrum03]

+1 on what soder said. Mine did the same thing it ended up being the alternator going out.

[Soder]

If you are confident with wiring, you can use the attached PDF that shows how to read ECU codes with a 12V LED and a paper clip.

it also shows what the common codes mean.

[jpwhit]

On a lot of boats, the ECU has the ability to mute the audio system when a check engine alarm goes off. I would start by using a code reader to check for ECU codes. I use Rhinda Diacom to check ECU codes.

[Soder]

I would start by checking your charging system (alternator, battery, wiring). Cranking the tunes pulls a lot of amps from your battery thus lowering its voltage if your alternator can’t keep it charged. If your battery gets too low (I believe below 11.5V), you will get the alarm. This may also cause your audio to stop because it’s not getting enough volts/amps. The weak charging system may catch up after a few minutes of the audio being off and things work again. Then the cycle continues.

Then, of course, I could be completely wrong.

[Trhodes]

I have a 2003 x2, and it runs mechanically perfect. However, whenever I crank it after a few minutes in starts this constant beep sound that will make the sound system cut out. The sound will play continuously for about 7 minutes and then cut off, and about 5 minutes later it will start again. It happens at all speeds, i.e. wide open throttle and idle. I have heard that it could be oil pressure sensor, but non of my gauges work. Has anybody had this problem and resolved it? Thanks