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  • Couple things here:

    - The whole purpose of installing the BS ACR is to eliminate or lessen the chance that you are stuck without enough power to turn off the engine. Your starter battery should only have the starter connected (and the ECM in our cases) with everything else on the House. Otherwise, your accessories can/will drain your starter battery.

    -If the 40 AMP breaker is functioning, no reason to replace it now.

    -Generally, fuses/breakers should be installed as close to the battery for every run of wire. These are not to protect the battery necessarily (even though they help) but rather to prevent the cable from overheating and catching fire in case amperage exceeds the capability of the cable. This could happen if one batteries voltage is vastly different than another, or an internal short, or a short to ground. I have breakers to eliminate needing to swap fuses, but you could just as easily have a couple 100amps on hand.

    -If a fuse were to blow between the ACR and one of the batteries, the starter battery would till function, but the house would not be recharged. Remember, you could override the system and combine both batteries. The chances of blowing a fuse here is really low... Something would really have to have gone wrong.

    I think I hit everything?

    -D2


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2002 X-Star Indmar 5.7 Vortec Predator (SOLD)
    2010 X-STAR Indmar 6.0
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    • D2 appreciate the response. Sorry for all the questions. I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to this. So I can just run this wire and everything on it to the House Battery? I'm not sure I understand your comment on the ECM. Other than running the power and ground from the starter to the starter battery is there anything else that needs to go to the starter battery?

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      • Originally posted by jj91 View Post
        D2 appreciate the response. Sorry for all the questions. I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to this. So I can just run this wire and everything on it to the House Battery? I'm not sure I understand your comment on the ECM. Other than running the power and ground from the starter to the starter battery is there anything else that needs to go to the starter battery?

        No problem, we've all been there.

        I would run the house cable that is connected to that breaker (you probably want to confirm, I don't know how your boat was configured) as well as any amps, stereo & accessories to the house battery. Typically the house will be a deep cycle battery BTW.

        The cable running to the starter probably also serves the ECM (engine control module) which is likely on its own breaker near or on the engine.

        Starter battery should only serve the vitals that need to start the engine, so the Starter and ECM.

        The intent is that the Blue seas system will isolate your house battery from the starter battery when the system voltage falls below the alternator output. If I recall, this is 12.4 volts for 10 seconds. Once the alternator starts outputting over 13.6 volts, it will combine the batteries so that the house charges along side the starter.

        Your best bet would be to draw the system out, and make sure you have all your ducks in a row before starting to move anything around the boat.

        This is all off memory... so if i've misstated anything, someone jump in.

        Hope this helps,
        -D2
        2002 X-Star Indmar 5.7 Vortec Predator (SOLD)
        2010 X-STAR Indmar 6.0
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        • Ok, so I spent some time measuring cables and planning out my design. I thought it was going to be easy to pull the ground wire from my accessories under the helm to the battery as I need to extend that wire. Whoa, I guess not. Positive and negative cables along with 4-5 other wiring harnesses are all taped together inside of some corrugated tubing. Once it gets back to the fuel tank the P and N wires split to go the battery while the other wires continue to the engine. I'm afraid if I pull them it's going to be one heck of battle to get them back through the hole behind the kick plate.

          I'm not sure why I didn't think of this earlier...would have saved me some time and a cut above my eye (lol...dropped phone on my head as I was crawling under there trying to get some light), but can't I just add another circuit breaker next to the positive one already I have by my battery (see pic below). Then I can attach the existing negative wire from the breaker and put a new wire from the breaker to buss bar...effectively lengthening the wire. I get that will result in 2 breakers on the same circuit, but would that cause any issues/concerns?
          Attached Files
          Last edited by jj91; 04-11-2021, 11:24 PM.

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          • The way I see it, you have two options:

            1. Snake a new ground next to the other wiring harness if you need to replace the cable.
            2. Take your existing ground, terminate it at a bus bar near the existing battery, and use that bus bar to connect your myriad of grounds.

            The key to all of your connections will be to have robust, clean connections at all grounds. Make sure that terminal studs and ring ends are the right size, and are free of corrosion.


            I would not use a circuit breaker on your ground lead. This is the wrong application.

            D2
            2002 X-Star Indmar 5.7 Vortec Predator (SOLD)
            2010 X-STAR Indmar 6.0
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            • I hear what your saying. I took up the rear floor panel and there was some extra cable tied up next to the fuel cell so good news is I think I can move the bus bar from my original design to another spot and have enough cable to get there. Again, appreciate the response.
              Last edited by jj91; 04-12-2021, 04:07 PM.

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              • Install is done. As usual it took a bit longer than expected but overall went pretty smooth. I'm not going to miss crawling around under the observer seat. My a** is too big and too old to be doing much more of that. Overall I'm happy with the results.

                I got my cables from Greg's Marine Wire Supply (also sells under Custom Boat Cables and Lawrence Marine)...everything at Genuinedealz was out of stock. They seem like top quality cables, service was fast, and the reviews I found were very good.

                Appreciate everyone's help!
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • Originally posted by jj91 View Post
                  Install is done. As usual it took a bit longer than expected but overall went pretty smooth. I'm not going to miss crawling around under the observer seat. My a** is too big and too old to be doing much more of that. Overall I'm happy with the results.

                  I got my cables from Greg's Marine Wire Supply (also sells under Custom Boat Cables and Lawrence Marine)...everything at Genuinedealz was out of stock. They seem like top quality cables, service was fast, and the reviews I found were very good.

                  Appreciate everyone's help!
                  Looks good. Almost appears that you do not have a hot wire to the ACR but I think it is the photo. I see the fuse that runs to the accessory post. You need the hot feed coming from the start position on the ignition switch. Constant 12V will lock out the ACR and not allow for combining. Hard to make out how the ACR is wired for remote operation. There should be two wires (16GA) coming from bottom of the ACR (hot and ground).

                  .
                  Last edited by waterlogged882; 05-11-2021, 06:41 PM.
                  93 190
                  (safe click)
                  John 14:6
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                  • Good eye! You're right there is no power wire from the ACR. From the directions and my discussion with Blue Sea that power wire from the ACR to the ignition is optional. My understanding is that it would disengage the ACR during starting to prevent a voltage drop on the house side that could cause electronics (i.e. depth finder, plotter, etc.) on that side to reboot. I guess I wasn't concerned with that and it sounded like a high percentage of people don't hook that up. In my brief lake test I didn't notice any sort of drop that affected electronics. I've followed this forum long enough to know you know far more about all things boats than me. Do you see a risk? I guess I could always add it if I notice issues.

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                    • Originally posted by jj91 View Post
                      Good eye! You're right there is no power wire from the ACR. From the directions and my discussion with Blue Sea that power wire from the ACR to the ignition is optional. My understanding is that it would disengage the ACR during starting to prevent a voltage drop on the house side that could cause electronics (i.e. depth finder, plotter, etc.) on that side to reboot. I guess I wasn't concerned with that and it sounded like a high percentage of people don't hook that up. In my brief lake test I didn't notice any sort of drop that affected electronics. I've followed this forum long enough to know you know far more about all things boats than me. Do you see a risk? I guess I could always add it if I notice issues.
                      No risk, just preference. I like the option because it allows the ACR to work like it is designed (to monitor each battery with appropriate actions). It is almost fool proof with the option.

                      Here is a good read if the notion hits you. It is long and tedious but once or twice through is enlightening, where the take-away is that what you have is not (technically) an isolation relay but it is a charging monitor (relay) per se'...thus the option.

                      Your project looks good. Thanks for the kind words but I assure you there is a lot I do not know, thus I like to come here and read and learn.

                      Best

                      .
                      93 190
                      (safe click)
                      John 14:6
                      (safe click)

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                      • Originally posted by jj91 View Post
                        Install is done. As usual it took a bit longer than expected but overall went pretty smooth. I'm not going to miss crawling around under the observer seat. My a** is too big and too old to be doing much more of that. Overall I'm happy with the results.

                        I got my cables from Greg's Marine Wire Supply (also sells under Custom Boat Cables and Lawrence Marine)...everything at Genuinedealz was out of stock. They seem like top quality cables, service was fast, and the reviews I found were very good.

                        Appreciate everyone's help!
                        This is another project on my list. A question, did you have Greg's make up your cables or did you make them up yourself ? And what gauge cables did you use ?
                        2000 Prostar 205V

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                        • In before, what’s the golf tee for?!!!
                          -Tim

                          Making boomers great again!! Boomin'

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                          • Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
                            In before, what’s the golf tee for?!!!
                            I recently tagged you in a post about a photo I posted that you have not seen. There is another opportunity to see use for a golf tee.

                            .
                            93 190
                            (safe click)
                            John 14:6
                            (safe click)

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by dpb185 View Post

                              This is another project on my list. A question, did you have Greg's make up your cables or did you make them up yourself ? And what gauge cables did you use ?
                              I will say this; if you make cables yourself, use a hydraulic crimp tool for best results. Manual crimpers do not make a nice crimp on the 2AWG wire. That point is what I like about the guy at Genuinedealz...he makes some really nice (shrink) crimp connections. I am sure the people at Greg's place will do the same. Genuinedealz charged me $1.00 per crimp... a good deal. They come in a box ready for plug and play. When you measure the length(s), be sure and measure up the side of the battery box and across the top of the battery. It's easy to come up 1-3 feet short.

                              Not all terminal post hole sizes in the connectors are the same (battery, starter solenoid, and starter relay). Read that again.

                              .
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Wire03.jpg Views:	0 Size:	128.8 KB ID:	2695837

                              .
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Wire04.jpg Views:	0 Size:	98.8 KB ID:	2695838
                              93 190
                              (safe click)
                              John 14:6
                              (safe click)

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post

                                I will say this; if you make cables yourself, use a hydraulic crimp tool for best results. Manual crimpers do not make a nice crimp on the 2AWG wire. That point is what I like about the guy at Genuinedealz...he makes some really nice (shrink) crimp connections. I am sure the people at Greg's place will do the same. Genuinedealz charged me $1.00 per crimp... a good deal. They come in a box ready for plug and play. When you measure the length(s), be sure and measure up the side of the battery box and across the top of the battery. It's easy to come up 1-3 feet short.

                                Not all terminal hole sizes in the connectors are the same. Read that again.
                                My first thought was to get them made at one of the companies you listed, just wanted to make sure that was the best bet. For the price of a crimper, I think I'll just pay for made up wires.
                                2000 Prostar 205V

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